whisky all grain

all about mashing and fermenting grains

Re: whisky all grain

Postby coffe addict » Tue Jul 17, 2018 6:48 pm

Yeah 8inches is quite common in mine and occasionally it still overflows!
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Re: whisky all grain

Postby dans.brew » Tue Jul 17, 2018 7:16 pm

bluc wrote:I always get heaps activity..

Yeah righto. :handgestures-thumbupleft:
How long do your ferments take to finish usually?
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Re: whisky all grain

Postby bluc » Tue Jul 17, 2018 7:22 pm

Depends on temp last year I did them in the heat and they finished in about 5-6 days. This year doing them in cold still waiting to find out.. :D only done a handful so far getting equipment and method sorted first...
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Re: whisky all grain

Postby TasSpirits » Tue Jul 17, 2018 7:24 pm

Well done on the malting Dan, my AG ferments are usually done in 48hrs (in a controlled fridge), sometimes a little longer if I use a beer yeast, usually use Malt Whisky Yeast. :handgestures-thumbupleft:
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Re: whisky all grain

Postby dans.brew » Tue Jul 17, 2018 7:38 pm

TasSpirits wrote:Well done on the malting Dan, my AG ferments are usually done in 48hrs (in a controlled fridge), sometimes a little longer if I use a beer yeast, usually use Malt Whisky Yeast. :handgestures-thumbupleft:


Thanks Tas!
Im thinking this one isnt going to take too long at this rate... its going pretty hard.
The smell out the top is very nice at this stage, much nicer than my sugarhead!
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Re: whisky all grain

Postby dans.brew » Wed Jul 18, 2018 6:58 am

My fermenter is still going crazy... lost about 1ltr worth out the top in foam already :angry-banghead:
Im hoping it doesnt do this for 5-6 days... I'm starting to wonder how bad its gonna puke in my still when i get that far.
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Re: whisky all grain

Postby coffe addict » Thu Jul 19, 2018 8:47 am

About as much as your fermenter lol.
There's a few tricks that help but for me the easiest and most reliable is to allow it to foam up into the 3Rd plate turn it off and allow 10mins to settle before starting again. This breaks the proteins out of suspension and usually runs fine for the rest of the run.
It'll still use more headroom than any other wash!
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Re: whisky all grain

Postby EziTasting » Thu Jul 19, 2018 10:37 am

coffe addict wrote:About as much as your fermenter lol.
There's a few tricks that help but for me the easiest and most reliable is to allow it to foam up into the 3Rd plate turn it off and allow 10mins to settle before starting again. This breaks the proteins out of suspension and usually runs fine for the rest of the run.
It'll still use more headroom than any other wash!


Hah, I do this, not because I intend to, but because I’m too slo... :D
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Re: whisky all grain

Postby dans.brew » Thu Jul 19, 2018 12:35 pm

coffe addict wrote:About as much as your fermenter lol.
There's a few tricks that help but for me the easiest and most reliable is to allow it to foam up into the 3Rd plate turn it off and allow 10mins to settle before starting again. This breaks the proteins out of suspension and usually runs fine for the rest of the run.
It'll still use more headroom than any other wash!


Thanks for the tip... do you worry about a dolop of oil? :handgestures-thumbupleft:
I'll be only running about 26-27 ltrs in a 50 ltr boiler, so that should help a fair bit.
I'd love to be able to do the protein rest when mashing, but i havent got the setup to do so. Even if it didnt stop the foaming, it would have to help.
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Re: whisky all grain

Postby coffe addict » Thu Jul 19, 2018 2:36 pm

With less than 30L in a 50L boiler you shouldn't have too much of a hard time.
I've used oil and also commercial foam inhibitors but they make the boiler heaps harder to clean so I now only add them if I've accidentally over filled the boiler and I can't get it to settle down.
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Re: whisky all grain

Postby dans.brew » Thu Jul 19, 2018 4:10 pm

Yeah... last time i added oil it was a bugger to clean and that was a 30 ltr open top boiler, not a keg with only a 4" hole.
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Re: whisky all grain

Postby Peregian » Fri Jul 27, 2018 7:29 pm

Decided to get serious about single malt and trying hard to get things right..........this is today's progress.

Using rainwater from a new tank (tastes OK) boiled up the strike and sparge water the previous day hoping to sterilize it.

6.250KG Gladfield Distillers Malt. Cracked the grain with a 1.1mm roller gap using a Mill Maste rwith fluted rollers. Crush seemed OK but a little fine. Used 6.250KG so as divide the 25KG bag into 4 equal lots.
22 liters fo strike water heated to 72deg C
Added the cracked grain and water temp dropped to 68dg C.
PID was set to mash at 65deg C for 80 minutes.
Ran the pump all the time from start to finish.

I DID FORGET TO MASH OUT AT A HIGHER TEMP eg 78deg C

Wort went clear with a redish tinge towards end.
Raised the malt pipe and allowed it to drain for an hour or so.
Sparged with 78deg C water, about 4 liters.
Ended up with 22 liters in the fermenter.
SG of about 1.061 with no temp correction, I think the wort was at about 27deg C
PH 5.4

Added Fermentis Safwhisky M-1 yeast

The brew kettle is a Guten with all the electrics removed and replaced with an Auber Mashing PID and a SSR
The temp probe is inserted into the center of the mash for a more accurate reading.

Any advise would be very welcome.
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Re: whisky all grain

Postby bluc » Fri Jul 27, 2018 7:54 pm

Sounds ballpark to me you get better effeciency out of your system than me but early days for me... i do 14kg at 1.057 ish in one go... i need a better temp controller which is well underway...be interested in detailed thought on flavour :-B
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Re: whisky all grain

Postby Peregian » Fri Jul 27, 2018 8:39 pm

Hi bluc,

I am going to keep it small my days of stuffing up $100 worth of grain are over, figure one mash a day for 4 days to use a 25KG bag will be OK.
Will be interesting to see how the Fermentis yeast performs plus I will try a mash out at a higher temp tomorrow.
This mash has used up most of the day after clean up and setting up for tomorrow.
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Re: whisky all grain

Postby Sam. » Fri Jul 27, 2018 9:04 pm

Why do you want to mash out?
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Re: whisky all grain

Postby Minijcw » Sat Jul 28, 2018 12:12 am

I have found with the M-1 yeast that it goes really hard at the start then finishes slow. I have had mine going down to 1.000 but if i reuse the yeast bed for next ferment it doesnt go as low
Good luck with it.
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Re: whisky all grain

Postby Peregian » Sat Jul 28, 2018 9:17 am

Sam. wrote:Why do you want to mash out?


I read something ages ago that if you increase the temp at the end of the mash process you stop all the enzyme reaction with the malt. This may be more of a beer brewing thing.
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Re: whisky all grain

Postby Peregian » Sat Jul 28, 2018 9:26 am

Minijcw wrote:I have found with the M-1 yeast that it goes really hard at the start then finishes slow. I have had mine going down to 1.000 but if i reuse the yeast bed for next ferment it doesnt go as low
Good luck with it.


The M-1 took hold last evening and still seem to be going strong this morning, the fermenter is covered with a sleeping bag to try and retain the warmth.
I can get a Teddy's neutral to ferment out in 72 hours and have found the Bakers yeast will do the bulk of the heavy lifting in the first 24 hours so maybe the M-1 is similar.

Changing the mash process today so will advise changes and outcomes later today if all goes well.
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Re: whisky all grain

Postby Peregian » Sat Jul 28, 2018 9:43 am

Sam. wrote:Why do you want to mash out?


Had a quick look and found this................

"Mash Out Why
Mashout is the term for raising the temperature of the mash to 170°F prior to lautering. This step stops all of the enzyme action (preserving your fermentable sugar profile) and makes the grainbed and wort more fluid. For most mashes with a ratio of 1.5-2 quarts of water per pound of grain, the mashout is not needed.
"

May help, sorry not in metric.
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Re: whisky all grain

Postby bluc » Sat Jul 28, 2018 10:03 am

But with whiskey enzyme activity is wanted to get as much alcohol out of it as possible..within reason but you may gain one or two points if enzyme remains active..

With beer generally people dont want a high alcohol content 4-5% so they work out how much they want then stop it where they want it...if you are getting really good effeciency and are happy with sg then yes stop enzymes. If you undershoot a touch like me the little bit extra helps.. :handgestures-thumbupleft:
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