Bryan's inline heater Project Evolving

all about mashing and fermenting grains

Bryan's inline heater Project Evolving

Postby RuddyCrazy » Sat Feb 03, 2018 3:16 pm

G'day Guy's,
Where the double boiler idea was a good I did jump in with both barrels but it did seem no bullets were there as I should of read the fine print where 2 different sized boilers were used. :angry-banghead: . Anyway I came across a commercial toaster for free from Recreate where I used the elements out of it to make a heating ring where a 3/4" copper pipe can flow the product thru. So I ventured into the AC world using a 2400 watt Varaic I got off my Dad and never used. I did a youtube video and here it is below




Now after the success of the trial I got onto fleabay to find a PID and found one for $20. :happy-partydance: Where the PID, 40 amp SSR and K type thermocouple on a M6 thread was found in the package.

Well sort of jumping the gun here and before one can even use the PID setup one needs to be able to pump the product through the 3/4" pipe or everything will heat up and burn :law-policered: well a 50 amp breaker will trip and no bunnies will be fried, well maybe a magpie as they are so inquisitive :laughing-rolling:

I do have several gear pumps here where I have used them for pumping water and found the input seal leaked not too badly just a drip but we can't have hot fluid leaking out and rotting the wood base unit can we. I found an old Bronze pump so duly stripped it to find some wear on the sealing surfacing so cleaned off the surface plate anf got to lapping until all the wear and had some flat surfaces for the gears to run. I put the gears in my toolroom lathe gave them a shiver of a cut to true them up. On closing up the pump I found I needed a 20 thou shim and I did have some brass plate so I made one from that. Now as the input seal used a fiber based seal which had hardened over time I retro fitted to use a O-ring seal and machined up some spacer rings so the o-ring seats nicely and hopefully will seal.

Now as my other gear pump used a 1/3 hp 240 volt AC motor that became a donor for powering the pump and if the flow is too great on 240 volts I'll make a circuit where I can use a 5K pot to control the input voltage. A coupling was on the old pump and it did fit the overhauled pump so a new pump base was needed and thats what I made this morning. As I found the height of the pump to motor within a fraction of error was 50mm I daid have a length of 50mm RHS so got to cutting and welded it up using my new Lincoln Caddy welder. I did need to switch it over from tig and set the current to 55 amps for the TC16 2.5 mm welding rods. I did find it was welding hot so turned it down to 40 amps. Now welding 2.5mm TC16's @ 40 amps :scared-eek: :scared-eek: :scared-eek: never done that low on a caddy welder before. So this new Lincoln caddy seem like the bees knees for as it will arc off the inverter. :happy-partydance: :happy-partydance: :happy-partydance: .

I did find after using the 4" angle grinder to cut up the RHS and using the welder to fabricate the pump/motor base frame when I turned on the drill to drill the hole for the mounting pads for the base unit the inverter beeped and did every time I turned on the motor. I seem to think I should change it over to a 3 phase motor and use a vfd so I don't have the inrush current that the inverter hates. Then I can program the vfd to come over the sudden increase of pressure when a drill starts. :happy-partydance:

Anyway I got the pump/motor base mount fabricated and it's now sitting on some twisting wire ready to accept the rest of a black cold gal can of paint. That can has been sitting in my shed for years and I was surprised it had some gas left but now I have enough to do a second coat. :happy-partydance: :happy-partydance: :happy-partydance:

Well one more Lash to drink then the second coat can go on and thats where I'm at at the close of todays work.

Cheers Bryan
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Re: Bryan's inline heater Project Evolving

Postby RuddyCrazy » Mon Feb 05, 2018 8:24 pm

Well guy's got the bronze pump and motor all setup so gave it a test by hooking up the mash tun filled with water to the pump and giving it run with the output going straight back into the keg. Used a 1/2" input to the pump and 3/4" outlet and found as the bush's in the pump are grease based it did leak into the water. :angry-banghead: .

O'well it's no good for doing a mash but it will still be good for drying vege oil for the setup I want to make for making my own bio diesel.

So this project is now NOT related to distilling and feel free to delete this thread.

Cheers Bryan
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Re: Bryan's inline heater Project Evolving

Postby Fishleg » Mon Feb 05, 2018 9:09 pm

Mate you've been as busy as a cat burying shit on concrete.
Sorry to hear your project didn't work out as planned.
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Re: Bryan's inline heater Project Evolving

Postby bluc » Mon Feb 05, 2018 9:45 pm

Yea bummer sounded like a good idea. I have seen people making rims tubes with externally wrapped heat tape rather than an internal element. Bit like a small herms setup :handgestures-thumbupleft:
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Re: Bryan's inline heater Project Evolving

Postby A&O » Mon Feb 05, 2018 10:22 pm

I wonder if you could convert the greased bushes to a water lubricated bush? Probably depend on RPM of the pump and if the bush remains submerged.
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Re: Bryan's inline heater Project Evolving

Postby RuddyCrazy » Sat Jun 09, 2018 2:04 pm

part 3B.jpg
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Re: Bryan's inline heater Project Evolving

Postby RuddyCrazy » Sat Jun 09, 2018 5:37 pm

OK for clarity the picture above is those 2.4Kw toaster heater elements encased in some 3" copper pipe and I made 2 end caps to cap off the ends of the pipe. Spewing I didn't have any black heatshrink so the red did for the first cover. I did drill a 3/8" hole to fit a grommet but the wire I'm using is overkill and it will do for the first test.

I did buy a PID so I'll use that for the elements and for the probe thinking about tigging in a SS tube for the temp sensor. Yhe mash tun as I bought it has a 1'1/2" tri-clamp as the drain on the side so that will get cut off and a patch tigged over. Then a new drain will be at the base so total drainage can happen.

Saw a door I scored from a job sitting on the fridge so used that to make a moveable box and I'll put an outlet for pumpinf the mash out whonse the run is done into a fermeter.

Cheers Bryan

and ist's only the first day of a longweekend so things are going to happen
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Re: Bryan's inline heater Project Evolving

Postby RuddyCrazy » Mon Jun 11, 2018 5:23 pm

G'day Guy's,
More fun after the jobbies for SWMBO :romance-kisscheek: were all out of the way. Gave the spray ring a bath in citric acid over night and drilled a heap of 1.2mm holes on a 30mm spacing.

spray setup.jpg


I have some aircon ducting here so cut a length off and used the white foam to wrap around the keg and got 4 layers done, then just used the silver cover to wrap the final cover around. I did find a 1-1/2" endcap so the tri clamp flange can stay and I tig welded on a 1/2" bsp fitting on the base of the keg. Still got to make up the false floor, hookup the PID and do the plumbing . I do have a drill pump here so for a laugh I'll just hook up my ozito 1/2" drill as the power input and see how it handles 70C :)) .

Also I'm planning to install a paddle and power it with a 24 volt truck wiper motor to hopefully avoid making any corncrete.

Cheers Bryan
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Re: Bryan's inline heater Project Evolving

Postby bluc » Mon Jun 11, 2018 5:42 pm

Sweet looking mash tun..when I do corn it sets up pretty solid but malt soon loosens it up as would enzymes..
Last edited by bluc on Mon Jun 11, 2018 5:44 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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4 plate 4" bubbler, 600mm packed section

Re: Bryan's inline heater Project Evolving

Postby RuddyCrazy » Fri Apr 05, 2019 5:43 pm

G'day Guy's,

Well it has been a while since i've worked on this project and finally today picked up a 25 watt magnetic drive pump and also got the SS housing along with some 1/2" silicon tube and all the SS fittings. So this weekend i'll plumb it all up and get the PID setup for the heating element. i'm going to put a toogle switch on the neutral for the heating element so the safety factor will be there where unless the pump is running the heating element won't switch on. This will also serve as a temp sensor using the PID when doing a bourbon mash where I'll just heat the water for the corn then I'm in two minds on whether to put a tap under the mash tun so once the hot water is upto temp i can close the tap in order to stop the corn mash from clogging up the pump. Now i have made a 30 micron screen that sits ontop of the outlet at the base of the keg so would the tap be needed or would it just be a safety factor not really needed ?

As i am a AG virgin my first A run is going to be a bourbon mash where the recipe is 10 kg's of corn flour, 3 kg's of home made barely malt and 3kg's of joe white wheat malt. Also i'll mill all the malt into flour in my new stone corona mill so i can get the best conversion going.

Cheers Bryan
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