Esky for mash tun

[WTDist]

Beginning my search for equipment to start doing AG mashing and I want to make a HERMS so im thinking about using an esky like i have seen in other threads. makes sense :think:

I will be only using a 30L fermenter, MAX fill line, so prob 25L ferments and under. might go bigger in future, see how i go and finances.

So im wondering what would be a minimum size esky i would need to mash enough to fill a single 30L fermenter and what would the best size be to mash for 2 30L fermenters. than being 25L or 50L :think:

would a 40-50L esky do the job fine for a 30L fermenter? or even the 50L ferment?, do all grains in the esky and add water at end to bring to 50L?

would an esky like this be fine

cost will play a part in decisions of the esky i choose which is why im wondering how large it must be and what size i can 'make do' with.

It will be for AG Beer. will boiling at 100 degrees be too much for an esky? for the hops part. or whatever the instructions say. still a newb. or they built for high heat and low cold?

Another part im curious on is what type of pump does everyone use with there HERMS setup?

Cheers
WTD

[wynnum1]

Mash tun does not have boil temperatures could mash out at 80 but mostly 60 to 70 the mash tun would be less size then boiler the boiler if you fill to top could boil over .

[WTDist]

Cheers
as long as i can use it with hops its all good i guess. still reading up on them and ill talk to a HBS guy when i get the chance to pick their brain. so if im only going to ferment 50L MAX at a time would a 60L esky be fine considering it wont be boiling? only doing 30L fermenter to begin but would like to make it big enough so i can mash 2 at a time if i want.

[Sam.]

You will need a vessel to boil your mash in for your hop additions, the humble keg will be fine or another stainless stock pot :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[WTDist]

cool thx sam. thought i read i needed to boil them. been looking at recipes calling for 60mins etc. Doing BIAB too.

so thinking about an idea of having an element in the HERMS and a second one in the bottom of a keg (instead of a esky).

so would it work if i made a HERMS to sit on the side of a keg for the conversion/mashing and then when i want to boil for the hops switch the PID off for the HERMS and switch the element in the bottom of the keg on to get a rolling boil and maybe use the PID to not get it too much of a boil. or perhaps i will just make a whole new controller for this part :think:

how does that sound...? sounds good to me, but what do i know, i know little at this point :))

Cheers
WTD

[WTDist]

Looking at pumps for the mashing. i understand they need to handle high temps and be able to come into contact with food. I found one on craft brewer here which seems to look good.

seems like eBay has none except aquarium pumps. they ok?

Is this price too much above or in the ball park? anyone know where some cheaper ones may be sold or go with one like the above?

Cheers
WTD

[sp0rk]

Those pumps are $80 direct from Keg King (the supplier), so if you're going into Craftbrewer and not shipping it's a pretty good price
I've got one of the previous generation and can't fault it
However some people say the plastic head can break or strip the threads, so when I get one of the newer pumps I'll be going with the stainless head
http://kegking.com.au/stainless-pump-he ... 2-bsp.html
(no they don't fit the previous generation)

[sp0rk]

Also, don't jump the gun like most people and think that you NEED a HERMS
I've been getting on just fine (even step mashing) without one for years
I will be building one for my new 80L system, but that's because I want complete automation eventually
If you're going to start off with BIAB, I'd suggest get your Keggle/stock pot sorted out and all built, do a few batches in that and get your head around AG
Then proceed to build up the bits and pieces for a 4V HERMS system as you go

[WTDist]

Cheers spork. already started moving way from the herms idea. the more i read the more it looked like it ws for non BIAB and since im doing BIAB i thought why not have the element in the bottom of the keg boiler (cant find a SS pot cheaper than a keg) and have a pump just move it around, suck from bottom and put back in keg at top. it was when i started looking at RIMS vs HERMS. i figured this would move it around while i boil/steep/simmer and give the PID a better accurate reading. also make it easier to get the liquid in and out. also so far the basic costs from my research using new and a couple of second hand bits is around $480 was hoping for an extra keg and element but 500 is where my limit is most likely.

need to get what i want sorted out at the start before the misses stops the spending. kind of why im trying to sort as much out in beginning as any new costs that are too big wont get passed :crying-blue: so ill try get it set up good at start :handgestures-thumbupleft:

how does this sound? BIAB with element in bottom of boiler run by a PID (read STC gradually go out after 70deg) and a pump recirculating mash and to make it easier to handle.

[sp0rk]

Personally, I have a 3 ring burner with an adjustable regulator under a keggle and I don't recirculate
If you're set on electric, I'd probably just go the STC1000 for your mash temps, then swap to a voltage regulator for the boil
But a PID could do the lot, if you're happy to manually dial it in

[WTDist]

pretty sure ive decided. no pump. prob way over thinking it. ill use an element in bottom of keg with PID or STC, ill have the stc so if that works ill save $50 by not getting a PID. i wont use the pump but ill add a 1/2" ball valve from keg king. the screw in one and a few hole saws to add them in. this way ill save $115 (by only getting 1 element to) and ill make a controller for power and temp.

thx for the advice spork. much appreciated :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[sp0rk]

pretty sure ive decided. no pump. prob way over thinking it. ill use an element in bottom of keg with PID or STC, ill have the stc so if that works ill save $50 by not getting a PID. i wont use the pump but ill add a 1/2" ball valve from keg king. the screw in one and a few hole saws to add them in. this way ill save $115 (by only getting 1 element to) and ill make a controller for power and temp.

thx for the advice spork. much appreciated :handgestures-thumbupleft:

My only other piece of advice is to steer clear of Keg King's hole saws
From what I've seen, they're made of chalk
Spend the dosh on some from Bunnings, you'll use them more than once in this game