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Boiler controller?

PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 3:00 pm
by ScoobieSnack
Hey, does anyone know if there are off the shelf controllers for a 2000w boiler (mangrove jack i think)?
I'm trying to slow the boil at the start to better separate the heads.

Re: Boiler controller?

PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 3:24 pm
by Mattq71

Re: Boiler controller?

PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 3:44 pm
by ScoobieSnack
Cheers Mate :) looks perfect!

Re: Boiler controller?

PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 6:33 pm
by Minijcw
Thank you for the link i have looked at these before and was not sure how useful they were.

Re: Boiler controller?

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 9:29 am
by Stevejb
I've got one of these and opened it up to see what's in it. Be aware that the enclosure is NOT earthed, so if anything should go wrong you may get a shock. I'm an ex-sparkie...

Re: Boiler controller?

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 10:13 am
by The Stig
The T500 boiler actually has 2 elements wired to the one switch.
The cheap and cheerful going back a few years put in a second switch so one element could be turned off after reaching temp.
Very easy and cheap to do and doesnt involve a Chinese device that may or may not become an issue long term.

Re: Boiler controller?

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 11:35 am
by Minijcw
I currently have a boiler that is similar in style to the t500. It is made by a manufacturer in NZ and comes stock with a 2000w switch and a 1000w switch.
I do all runs using the 1000w setting due to the short build on my pot head. I was looking at these controllers purely to see if i can a better run out of my still.
The comments of no earth in the box concerns me as electricity and me dont get along well.
Think i will just upgrade my pot still head to a longer design and see how that effects my production.

Thank you for sharing you experience

Re: Boiler controller?

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 12:07 pm
by Professor Green
The Stig wrote:The T500 boiler actually has 2 elements wired to the one switch.
The cheap and cheerful going back a few years put in a second switch so one element could be turned off after reaching temp.
Very easy and cheap to do and doesnt involve a Chinese device that may or may not become an issue long term.


I did just that with mine. There’s an 800 Watt element and a 1200 Watt one that combine to give the full 2000 Watts. I added a switch to remove the 800 Watt one giving me the option for 2000 to bring things to the boil and 1200 to keep it ticking over. Worked really well with the FSD boka.

There are some pictures of the guts of the T500 I posted some time ago in a thread somewhere here.

Cheers,
Prof. Green.

Re: Boiler controller?

PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2018 12:11 pm
by Professor Green
I should add that, if you do modify your boiler electrics, you should have it either done by, or at the very least, checked by, a qualified sparkie.

Cheers,
Prof. Green

Re: Boiler controller?

PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2018 12:40 am
by PeterC
I have one of those ebay controllers. On another post someone mentioned to use a UK to AU power adapter in this thing which I did. The connection is much better as the AU plug does not fit well in the multi-type socket whereas the UK one is rock solid with good contact. Cheers Peter C.

Re: Boiler controller?

PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2018 12:45 pm
by Banhammer
I still use one of those ebay controllers, it gets the job done but theres just a slight humming noise which was wierd lol.

Re: Boiler controller?

PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2018 6:38 pm
by Manchestershine
I bought the exact same controller also on eBay for the T500 boiler, works well for me.

Re: Boiler controller?

PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2018 7:10 pm
by ac3000
As a sparkie I cant stress the importance of having earthed equipment enough. I've heard some of the Chinese gear isnt earthed (and some gear on ebay does look suspect)- but this can be checked (or fixed). When building a boiler from a keg an earth should ALWAYS be added. You can weld a bolt on the keg for an earthing point.

The bottom pin (vertical) on the aussie 3 pin plug/ power point is the earth. If you have a continuity tester, or buzzer to test if 2 points are connected (ohms on a multimeter) you can use this to check. (DONT PLUG ANYTHING INTO A POWER POINT TO DO THESE TESTS)

From the vertical bottom pin on the male plug (that you stick in the power point) to any metal part on your controller, and especially the corresponding vertical bottom outlet on the controller you should get continuity (buzzer will buzz or ohm meter will show zero ohms). When your boiler is plugged into the controller (DONT PLUG CONTROLLER IN TO POWER POINT TO CHECK) you should get continuity/ buzz/ zero ohms from any metal on the boiler all the way back to the bottom vertical pin on the plug that you would stick in the power point.

If your meter/ buzzer etc doest react/ buzz etc your item may not be earthed- get it checked (or buy funeral insurance).

Earthing equipment shouldn't be a big deal for someone that knows what they are doing- I suggest bribes of alcohol will readily work. Earthing can be easily added and/ or checked, and will going a long way to saving your ass if something goes wrong.

ALSO- If your house/ shed doesnt have RCD/ safety switch protection do your self a favour and buy a power board that has it (not just overload protection) or get it installed.

Hope the above makes sense- if in doubt offer a sparkie free piss to check. I can try and do a diagram if this would help?
Stay safe
AC3000

Re: Boiler controller?

PostPosted: Wed Mar 14, 2018 7:32 pm
by Lowie
Good advice AC3000. :handgestures-thumbupleft: