Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Hey spam.
If you are going for that specific look, definitely go for the 4".

I'd still whack way more than 4 tubes in though, especially since you only have 400mm of the 4" to spare.

I am aware of an adjustable Lyne arm. However my readings on still design is that on industrial systems Lyne arm design is a variable to consider however on a hobby scale it makes little difference. I have also read that 80% of a whiskys flavour comes from aging and the barrel. The remaining 20% can be attributed to mash recipe and still.

When I have spoken to my pro distiller friends, and I expected them to say hard yes and no answers regarding still design. Instead they are of the opinion that each still is unique in its traits and character and you have to learn how to work with it to get what you want.

Let me apologise for what follows as it will surely offend.

I feel that people seem to overthink things. We get caught up in copper porn as we lose sight of the forest for the trees. Thereby losing the art and skill of the craft. My first passion is woodworking the number of guys who say if I only had this tool and that tool then I could do great work. At the same time with nothing but a sharp chisel and saw a master craftsman can make masterpiece after masterpiece by nothing more then his skills.

I am a fan of Greek Tsipouro If you look at those stills they are as simple as they can be. They have been making fine spirits for hundreds of years in their mountain villages with these simple stills. The same can be said for those fine good old boys from the Appalachians.

Again my apologies.

Tinker at this stage I have spare 4” copper and the configuration is up for grabs I will post back with some photos.

Nothing wrong with a pot still mate. I only built bubblers cause they are quicker and only require a single run. They can also do neutral spirits with a couple extra peices.

Mate this hobby is about whatever floats your boat :handgestures-thumbupleft: I hope you do build a big ol pot like the one in the photo, it looks awesome. Good luck and keep us upto date.

:text-+1: pot still :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Vote for your preferred configuration

Option 01 - a longer style Lyne arm



Option 02



Option 03




I have always preferred the idea of a pot still over more efficient systems. I have a bunch of Sour beers that I want to convert while retaining as much of the favour as possible.

I think which ever one you like the look of will do you just fine mate.
I'm assuming you are going to support the condenser in a similar fashion to the one in the photo you posted earlier though. I think it will need it.

If your earlier post was directed my way, no offence taken. Ours is essentially a very individual hobby there are a million different ways to build a still and a million more ways to make booze. It is totally up to you how you want to do that.

Horses for courses.

Cheers

I am thinking of a tripod leg structure for the condenser that way if will be free standing.

Thank you all for support.

The more I think about it and considering what people have said regarding the shotgun condenser being overkill and difficult to adjust the temp for such a small system as mine I am leaning towards a simpler Leibig design.

Rc (reflux condenser) you adjust. For a pc(product condenser)/shotty you just run flat out knock down all vapour. A shotty would be fine for what you wanna do :handgestures-thumbupleft:

:text-+1:
Especially on a flat out stripping run

Shotgun it is, will go to Bunnings and just buy some 1/2” pipe.

I was playing around with the configuration and came up with this variation. It’s more compact horizontally and it should be more stable. I also like it because it has symmetry.

Yep that one gets my vote!
:handgestures-thumbupleft:

I am looking at heating elements- for - 40 litre boiler will one 3600 watt element suffice or should I get two. Also can anyone recommend a system to control power output for the elements?

There are some 6000w elements around with 6 pins for 3 separate elements of 2000w ea for not much dearer than than a single element. Direct switch 2 and put the 3rd on a power controller. This setup lets you use up to 3 different circuits on your house power box without straining a particular circuit

edit :law-policered: appropriately wired and inspected of course

Thanks RC AL I have found one 6000w unit will run it past my mate who is an electrician he should also help me getting the power adapter unit running.