Wider column on a T500

[Daisycutter]

Hi all - long time listener, first time caller. I lurked for years before finally deciding to make an account.. :teasing-neener:

I started distilling in ~2017 with a T500, used turbos for years before taking a bit of a hiatus these last 2 years - life and work got in the way. Came back to it in the last few weeks and have a bunch of FFV and TPW going instead of the turbo, which I'm cautiously optimistic about so far.

One of the problems I have had over the years is the time it takes for a run to finish, hence the 2 year hiatus. I know this is because the column on the T500 is 2", and that increasing this will result in higher distillation speeds.

That said, I still like the T500 - the boiler, anyway. It's easy to fill and clean, and with a power controller I don't see any reason to change it up or build something custom, aside from it being a little small.. I've seen the larger digiboils but I also don't want to have to get a 15a plug put in if I can avoid it (but I might be sold on it with a good argument..), so it's hard to go larger than 2kw.

What I am considering doing is building a custom column for the boiler. 3", maybe 4". I have seen triclamp adapters for the T500, and I could basically invert a reducer to get the desired diameter and go from there. But I have found pretty much zero information on anyone else that has done this.

Would this be a stupid thing to do? Would it result in a "choke point" at the lid before opening up, or does this not really apply in the same way it would restrict something like a water pipe? Would the boiler be able to keep up with the extra head space? Am I missing a painfully obvious alternative? Should I just get a better/bigger boiler and stop bitching about 10a sockets?
Budget isn't limitless, but I'm open to making it rain a little if there is a better long-term solution I haven't thought of.

Some caveats I am aware of already:
- The T500 lid is made of cheese. I know I would need to reinforce it somehow due to the extra weight
- I will also need to build taller if I go wider (if there's a formula for this, I'd love to know).
- I will need a bigger condenser to compensate.


Keen to get any thoughts.. thanks!

[RuddyCrazy]

G'Day Cutter :handgestures-thumbupleft: Welcome to the forum mate and it does look like you want to dive into that rabbit hole :laughing-rolling:

Now many have said that T-500 is a great still to start out and learn and when it's time to upgrade one is better to put it in the corner and build a new bigger still. As you say you don't want to go beyond 10 amps how about going the gas route where a 3 ring gas burner, 50 litre beer keg which will fit a 2" triclamp so a 2-4" or a 2-3" fitting can be used. A keg can be used without mod's but filling and draining will be a pita :angry-banghead: but eh one step at a time.

Have a good look at some of the members still builds :handgestures-thumbupleft: so you can get your head around what needs to be done and if a still build is beyond your skills well just give Andrew a call mate :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Cheers Bryan

[Daisycutter]

Ruddy thanks mate, yeah I am definitely ready and keen to kick things up a notch. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

RE gas, there are two main reasons I am averse to this:
- Safety. I am currently distilling in a mostly enclosed space. I am very familiar with LPG (used to work for a major supplier) and am not really comfortable with a flammable has heavier than air inside, where an open flame exists.
- I have a pretty large solar array on my roof, and my electricity provider is giving me absolutely shit ROI. So I would prefer to convert that sunlight into ethanol instead.. :teasing-neener:

I have looked into the keg builds too, but part of the appeal of the T500 boiler is the concealed element and ease of cleaning. It is so easy to just take the thing outside and hose it down. I'm not opposed to ditching the thing if there is a better option, it's just kind of hard to find a path forward from the boiler itself. Hence why I am considering building a bigger column on it.
I'd rather buy a milk can and throw an element in it (seen some for sale, don't want to link anything specific), but they are also a pain to clean by the look of it.

I'm not completely opposed to going 15a for a boiler if that's the best path forward, to be honest I'd rather do that than go with a gas burner. I guess I am just not sure what the best progression path is.. :-D

[harold01]

My boilers are gas and electric, gas to heat up to temp then cut it then electric from then on
I crank on average 110 kw a day to the grid through summer so running the still through the day is for me

[Wellsy]

Hello Daisy
I have the 5star milk can boiler with 2 elements. The 8 inch opening at the top makes it easy to get your arm in so cleaning is easy. A hose or simple wipe out after a run is all that is needed. I usually give the elements a good wipe over with a damp cloth to make sure nothing is stuck on them, flip the cloth over and give the outside a wipe over.
If you really want to go all out 2 triclamps are all that hold the 2 elements in place and they can be removed so the whole thing can be immersed in something if that is what you want. It all operates on 10 amps, although I have found the circuit breaker gets tripped if both are plugged into the same circuit in the shed. I just have one plug in the shed and one extension lead from the house. Cleaning has never been a problem.

[BigRig]

The lids on the t500 boiler and the digiboil are quite flimsy, if you were going to go too big or too wide have a pulley or something to help support the weight.

[Daisycutter]

Thanks guys, this is all really good info!

I had not considered running a combination of gas and electric, while I do want to avoid gas that does seem like a cheat code to push past 10a. Running on separate circuits is an idea as well, I have 3 separate 10a circuits but I'm not sure the missus would approve of extension cords snaked around the place for an entire day.. ;-)

So my thoughts now are that I'm basically trying to reinvent the wheel and making things harder for myself than they need to be - and that I should let the T500 be a T500 and use the right tools for the job. I have the pot head for it so I can still use it for stripping runs.

Wellsy you have pretty much sold me on the milk can with that description, double the capacity seems like a nice perk as well. Is it light enough to pick up and tip out the remains that the tap misses? Also, would you say the bottom of it is thick enough to handle a burner (in case I do go gas down the track as well)?

[Wellsy]

It is light enough to pick up Daisy but i never need to , it drains empty with a simple tilt of the can when it gets low enough. I run it on a small very sturdy coffee table.
As for strong enough to run a burner underneath, i would think only if it is supported by the rim. Those crab burns can be a bit smaller than the base so it would be the floor only taking all the weight and that would concern me. Stig will be best placed to give an honest answer.
Having said all that however you will never want to put a burner underneath it as they look fantastic and you will not want those discolourations and blackening from the gas fire. That would be too much to bear, and you would see that ugly scar every time you fired it up and know that you were the cause of it. Perhaps i am revealing a little to much how much i love my still :laughing-rolling:
I just need to one extension lead and i have left it in place for 2 years now and the boss is sorta used to it. ways and means lol

[The Stig]

We do have a couple of users on gas with the 50L Milk Cans.
You just need to be careful and make sure the flames dont lick up around the sides and turn it black/blue and it could melt the silicone seals in the drain valve and element ports if allowed to continue too long (but unlikely, thats a worse case scenario)

[MattSmith]

As Wellsy said, FSD Milk Can's are piss easy to clean.

I've been running mine on 2 x 2400w elements off separate circuits for the last few runs (my 3600w element needs cleaning and I haven't found the time). It's fine, heat up takes a little longer but that's it.

You could probably spec a keg boiler up to equal a milk can but unless you can do the welding yourself I don't think it's worth the hassle.

[Daisycutter]

I can do some basic electrical work myself (I just won't touch the fuse box hence no 15a), so what I might end up doing is wiring another power socket in from another circuit to avoid the extension cords.

I think this is all I need to get started and push me past the analysis paralysis stage - the rest is on me to go and do a copious amount of research before going and lightening my wallet.. :))

I'll update with what I end up going with when I start getting boxes at the front door, but it's not likely to be this side of the year.

Thanks gents!

[B-Man]

Don't forget that increasing the column you will need to increase the power you put into it or you wont get the speeds you are after.
I find the T500 is "overpowered" for the column so it does a great job of getting a high abv and decent speed.
For my still I used 3600w on a single shed 16a circuit with nothing else running on it no worries. running a 4" bubbler i run at the full 3600w but I wouldn't run it under 3000w you don't get enough reflux and it becomes alot slower.