Getting back on the horse

Just starting out and need some advise? then post it in here.

Getting back on the horse

Postby cdbrown » Tue May 21, 2013 12:16 pm

Been quite some time since I've run the still, spare time was lacking and when I did have it beer would get made. Anyway I jumped back on this site the other week and was checking out the DWWG in the tried and proven section. Made up a 50L batch (in 2 30L fermenters) and after about 4 days they were fermented out and the wash was quite clear (especially compared to the UJSM).

I did a stripping run (and made a fresh 50L batch of DWWG at the same time) through the pot, chucking about 300ml and keeping the rest down to 20%. Now every one says during stripping runs just to go flat out, so that's what I did. As the run progressed the low wines coming out got warmer and warmer so instead of being about 20C it was more around 30-35c. I was using tap water for cooling and it was coming out fairly cool (damn pump on water tank didn't work - kept tripping the breaker - so now waiting on a replacement). I increased the water flow but that didn't seem to make any difference. Is that a bad thing for a stripping run? I have it so the water flows in the opposite direction to the flow of low wines - is that right? Would a higher flowrate of water help? Should I even worry? Is there any correction calculator for the alcometer (reads true at 20C) so I know for next strip that if the temp rises I can stop the run at the right spot (I think I stopped it a L or 2 short as the alcometer wasn't reading right).

I'm hoping the issue won't present itself during the spirit run as I'll be running it slower to get that "pencil" thin stream.
cdbrown
 
Posts: 209
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:51 pm
Location: Guildford, WA
equipment: 50L keg with McStill pot head, 3-ring burner on MP adj reg (upgrading to italian spiral)
McStill Copper Parrot
3v 50L brew rig with HERMS for 42L homebrew batches

Re: Getting back on the horse

Postby Linno » Tue May 21, 2013 12:20 pm

hey mate

you have the cooling right - against the flow of lowwines through the condensor.. i had the same issue with warm distillate from my pot when i was stripping i used to just stop around the high 20's to 30% as most alcometers read higher ABV when the distilate is warm.
Linno
 
Posts: 314
Joined: Sun May 13, 2012 3:20 pm
Location: Perth SoR
equipment: FSD Mac 4 version 1 #001
4" single cap, 4 plate SS Bubbler,
400mm SS packed extension

Getting back on the horse

Postby Dominator » Tue May 21, 2013 1:54 pm

If the water coming out of your condenser is cool then increasing the flow won't do anything. It just means you condenser has reached it's limit. If you can change the angle of your lyne arm so it is more horizontal to slow the flow of the liquid alcohol then you could get more cooling out of it.
Dominator
 
Posts: 1103
Joined: Fri Apr 26, 2013 10:45 am
Location: Sunshine Coast QLD
equipment: 2" Pot Still/Hybrid
4" Perf Plate Bubbler
50L Keg boiler with 2 x 2400w elements

Re: Getting back on the horse

Postby cdbrown » Tue May 21, 2013 2:01 pm

Would the angle of the leibig make any difference? I've probably got it around 30 degrees from horizontal.
cdbrown
 
Posts: 209
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:51 pm
Location: Guildford, WA
equipment: 50L keg with McStill pot head, 3-ring burner on MP adj reg (upgrading to italian spiral)
McStill Copper Parrot
3v 50L brew rig with HERMS for 42L homebrew batches

Re: Getting back on the horse

Postby Linny » Tue May 21, 2013 2:09 pm

http://distillers.tastylime.net/library ... tfiles.htm

most of the big scots only have it 5-10* decending from horizontal
Linny
 
Posts: 1147
Joined: Thu Oct 11, 2012 8:46 pm
Location: Newcastle NSW
equipment: 4 Plate 3" Glass Bubbler - 50L Boiler
50L BIAB Temp Controlled Mash Tun

3" Carter Head Soon to Come

Getting back on the horse

Postby Dominator » Tue May 21, 2013 2:29 pm

Yes, having your Liebig more horizontal will cool your liquid more. As said above, maybe try closer to 10deg from horizontal and see how that goes.

Alcohometer Temp correction chart:
http://homedistiller.org/correctiontable.pdf

Alcohometer Temp correction calculator:
http://homedistiller.org/index.php?mn=c ... 0&tempi=35
Dominator
 
Posts: 1103
Joined: Fri Apr 26, 2013 10:45 am
Location: Sunshine Coast QLD
equipment: 2" Pot Still/Hybrid
4" Perf Plate Bubbler
50L Keg boiler with 2 x 2400w elements

Re: Getting back on the horse

Postby cdbrown » Tue May 21, 2013 3:47 pm

Thanks guys, will lift it up for the next run and see how that goes.
cdbrown
 
Posts: 209
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:51 pm
Location: Guildford, WA
equipment: 50L keg with McStill pot head, 3-ring burner on MP adj reg (upgrading to italian spiral)
McStill Copper Parrot
3v 50L brew rig with HERMS for 42L homebrew batches

Re: Getting back on the horse

Postby SBB » Tue May 21, 2013 4:35 pm

Angle of condenser will help to some degree, but is only part of the answer to the problem, put enough heat under a boiler and any condenser will have its limits.
Less heat and more water flow r will also help a lot. Or for that matter the same heat and more water flow.
cdbrown wrote:As the run progressed the low wines coming out got warmer and warmer so instead of being about 20C it was more around 30-35c.

The further you go into the run the higher the boiling point of the boiler contents and the vapors that are hitting your condenser, hence the further into the run you get the harder the condenser has to work.
When people say "run flat out" they really mean "within reason"....taking into account what your condenser and water flow can handle.
SBB
Lifetime Member
 
Posts: 2450
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 8:12 pm
Location: Northern NSW
equipment: (The Pelican) a 2 inch pot / stripper on 25L electric boiler interchangable with T500 reflux still...... 2 1/2 inch pot still on 50L keg (gas burner).....
3 inch Boka (half share with Draino),...... 4 inch 4 plate perforated plate Bubbler

Re: Getting back on the horse

Postby cdbrown » Tue May 21, 2013 6:49 pm

Ok will take under advisement. Hopefully with the arrival of the italian spiral I'll be able to get it up to temp quicker than my cheap 3-ring which no longer seems to have an efficient blue flame (too many boil overs have restricted the outlets I guess). With the quicker temp rise I'll be happy to reduce the heat input to match the condensor.
cdbrown
 
Posts: 209
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:51 pm
Location: Guildford, WA
equipment: 50L keg with McStill pot head, 3-ring burner on MP adj reg (upgrading to italian spiral)
McStill Copper Parrot
3v 50L brew rig with HERMS for 42L homebrew batches

Re: Getting back on the horse

Postby Sam. » Tue May 21, 2013 10:26 pm

cdbrown wrote:Ok will take under advisement. Hopefully with the arrival of the italian spiral I'll be able to get it up to temp quicker than my cheap 3-ring which no longer seems to have an efficient blue flame (too many boil overs have restricted the outlets I guess). With the quicker temp rise I'll be happy to reduce the heat input to match the condensor.


If your outlet holes on your burner are clogged just get a drill bit the right size and give them a clean out :handgestures-thumbupleft:

If you get an italian spiral burner definitely get a high pressure reg for it as well, will speed up boil times dramatically :music-deathmetal:
Sam.
Lifetime Member
 
Posts: 10405
Joined: Sun Jul 17, 2011 7:19 pm
Location: South Oz Straya
equipment: Original FSD 5 plate 4 inch modular bubbler SSG with hand crafted plates and parrot by Mac.
18 Gal boiler.
2 x 2400W elements and power controller.
.

Re: Getting back on the horse

Postby cdbrown » Wed May 22, 2013 12:36 pm

I got the italian burner as it comes with a nice stand perfect for the 50L keg when distilling. Will be cleaning out the holes of the 3-ring and keep it installed on my brew rig. I have an adjustable MP reg which I'll be using for the time being.
cdbrown
 
Posts: 209
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:51 pm
Location: Guildford, WA
equipment: 50L keg with McStill pot head, 3-ring burner on MP adj reg (upgrading to italian spiral)
McStill Copper Parrot
3v 50L brew rig with HERMS for 42L homebrew batches

Re: Getting back on the horse

Postby cdbrown » Thu May 23, 2013 11:38 am

I hooked up the MP reg to the italian spiral and lit it up last night. Man that thing can throw out some heat.

I noticed that with the air vent fully open and turning up the gas pressure the flames start to lift off about an inch from the nozzles - restricting the air brings it back down so it's touching but introduces a slight yellow to the flame, fully restriction. So at the start of the stripping run when I want as much heat into the boiler how do you recommend I have the flame set - with or without lift off?
cdbrown
 
Posts: 209
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:51 pm
Location: Guildford, WA
equipment: 50L keg with McStill pot head, 3-ring burner on MP adj reg (upgrading to italian spiral)
McStill Copper Parrot
3v 50L brew rig with HERMS for 42L homebrew batches

Re: Getting back on the horse

Postby cdbrown » Fri May 24, 2013 12:09 pm

Did the strip run of the second batch of DWWG using the italian spiral. Wow - that burner really outputs some decent heat. Took about half the time of the 3-ring to start seeing foreshots, then I had to turn the gas right down as the low wines were coming out too hot and fast for the condensor. The burner was hot enough to cause the bottom of the keg to glow within about 20mins. So now I've got about 20L of low wines and a 3rd batch of DWWG fermenting away. Once done and stripped with run all three for a spirit run. :dance:
cdbrown
 
Posts: 209
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:51 pm
Location: Guildford, WA
equipment: 50L keg with McStill pot head, 3-ring burner on MP adj reg (upgrading to italian spiral)
McStill Copper Parrot
3v 50L brew rig with HERMS for 42L homebrew batches


Return to Beginners Questions



Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 37 guests

x