first parrot attempt

by **home_brewer** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 8:48 am

i got a bit board last night and put together my first parrot anyway what do you guys think

by **Sam.** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 9:27 am

Looks like it will do the job mate. Well done

by **law-of-ohms** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 9:40 am

braised or soft solder?

by **MacStill** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 9:51 am

law-of-ohms wrote:braised or soft solder?

Brazed, wouldnt come out looking like that if soft soldered ;-)

by **law-of-ohms** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 9:55 am

What type of brazing rods? I've tried 45% silver and MAPP gas and cant get the damn rod to melt!

by **bt1** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 9:59 am

Bloke,

is the main tube 1" or 3/4"?

by **Goldie** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 10:02 am

Looks good mate, well done.

by **Linno** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 10:11 am

Gday

Thats a good effort mate judging by the others i looked at on here - looks just the same. I have been wondering about using the parrots- do you run all your forshots out before hand so that they dont stay in the parrot to mix with the good stuff as it comes through or does all the shots float to the top and come out first anyway??. I am looking at dressing up my HBS still with one. from what i can tell i need to keep capcity to a minimum, anything else? Would the perfect parrot have a tap on the bottom?

Cheers
Linno

by **bt1** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 10:34 am

Bloke,

Yep the smaller the volume the more responsive the parrot is to changes in abv... flow rate/vol time it takes to "refill" or lag to reflect if you prefer.
You need to eithr empty parrot or only start using it after fores and what ever heads you normally throw out are done.
Other bits, inner tube 1" to avoid hydro effect on alco meter i.e. no 3/4", Inner tube a few mm above the level of the collecting outer ring/fitting so you can see abv on meter properly, off take tube below level of main tube the is about it. Oops pts for arty farty efforts are awarded.

bt1

by **home_brewer** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 10:44 am

Ok first of its braized useing mapp and brown tip rods i think they are 15%
Main tube is 1in
And lastly i have no idea about how its going to go havnt used it yet

by **Linno** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 10:48 am

Thanks bt1

for convenience could you add a tap to the bottom of a parrot either vertical drain or horizontal drain so that you dont have to empty it?? :think:

Linno

by **bt1** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 11:03 am

Yeh anything in this craft is possible...is it warranted is the other question.

A brass tap will require constant pulling apart and pickling to avoid lead issues. A SS adds costs and complexity of join.

Being a bloke I'm well trained in the 90o twist motion to empty it ...like all blokes i guess of drinking age :shifty:

bt1

by **MacStill** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 11:46 am

bt1 wrote:
A brass tap will require constant pulling apart and pickling to avoid lead issues. A SS adds costs and complexity of join.

bt1

Why if it's only having fore shots and shit going through it ?

by **R-sole** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 4:17 pm

The inside of a brass ball valve is made from stainless and teflon.

MoreFukinChickenLittlePunkin

by **MacStill** » Sat Jun 23, 2012 4:47 pm

So let's say a 1/4 brass needle valve is 3% lead and the valve is 1% of the area of your still.

Now let's look at the surface area of the inside of that valve (vapor path) and look at how much lead is available to that vapor, even if it was ever proven beyond a doubt that ethanol vapor does leech lead from brass components.

Again I'll state that this is not HD and the scare mongering tactics used there without any proof will not be taken seriously here, further more there is a discussion on brass that BT1 created in the safety forum & I don't see the need for you to be bringing this up in any topic where the devils metal :laughing-rolling: isnt even mentioned by the OP :roll:

I asked you to prove your claims, you have yet to do that, the links you provided in your discussion have nothing to do with lead/ethanol vapor :angry-banghead:

Cheers