another LEIBIG question

[Kenster]

there have been probably heaps of answers to this question but i cant seem to find the post where i saw a pic of 'crimped' inner tube.
My query being...is that a real advantage in a (1/2 inch internal) leibig condenser. It makes sense that if the walls are not straight, offering no resistance the condensate would travel down the tube rather quickly. If it is advantageous, is there a preferred squashing technique, over others.
Tanks...Ken

[WTDist]

I look at it as the crimped spot also increases vapour speed at the crimped spot, as the crimped spot has a lower cross sectional area. did i mention crimped spot :laughing-rolling:

Not saying it wouldnt work though. i know i saw it recently

Oh just found it, or one??

http://www.aussiedistiller.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8280&p=143839#p143839

[Brendan]

A little disturbance is meant to be beneficial, but I wouldn't worry too much if you don't. I coiled a big length of copper wire around the outside of the inner tube on the one that I made.

[bluc]

Crimped mine no idea of difference as I have nothing to compare to. But it knocks down everything at 2400w.

[bayshine]

Some loosely rolled up copper mesh from Mac will do a much better job than some crimps in the tube :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Kenster]

WT...yeah..thats the one...nut cracker...sadly dont have one...ha ha
Brendan..was thinking of that too..saw it on the site,(probably you)...just one strand like a spring? how thick is the wire..how does it stay in place
Bayshine...would s s scrubbers work..not too tight.
Decisions,decisions.

Finally cracked the solder thing...tried silver solder 2% then 5% (better flow...bullshit) - proper flux...an absolute bitch to heat up fittings not even up to the 3" yet...with Map...abortion of a job.Cracked the shits as LF solder was just beading off too..couldnt do anything right (dumbarse using brazing flux...NOOOO GOOD.) Got some Bakers solder flux..man i knew i could solder ... had me buggered for a while.

[bayshine]

Scrubbers would be fine, as long as there not to tight :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[WTDist]

WT...yeah..thats the one...nut cracker...sadly dont have one...ha ha
Brendan..was thinking of that too..saw it on the site,(probably you)...just one strand like a spring? how thick is the wire..how does it stay in place
Bayshine...would s s scrubbers work..not too tight.
Decisions,decisions.

Finally cracked the solder thing...tried silver solder 2% then 5% (better flow...bullshit) - proper flux...an absolute bitch to heat up fittings not even up to the 3" yet...with Map...abortion of a job.Cracked the shits as LF solder was just beading off too..couldnt do anything right (dumbarse using brazing flux...NOOOO GOOD.) Got some Bakers solder flux..man i knew i could solder ... had me buggered for a while.

were you soft soldering with brazing flux to begin with?

when i braze i use 2% silver and no flux. I would use more % silver but i dont feel like paying 15$ for a brazing rod if 15% silver when 2% is about 5 :))

[Brendan]

Brendan..was thinking of that too..saw it on the site,(probably you)...just one strand like a spring? how thick is the wire..how does it stay in place.

Yeah, from memory I believe I had a fairly thin gauge copper wire (single core) and stripped the insulation back. So it'd be one of the thinner ones you can get in a single core (as opposed to having multiple strands inside the insulation). I wrapped it around, and soldered it in place. I just dabbed bits of flux along it's path, hit it quickly with the soldering iron and dabbed a quick bit of solder, enough to hold it in place permanently so that I don't have to worry about it sliding down or anything.

My only issue with the scrubbers or mesh is that I would just picture them all bunching up as far as they can go towards the end of the tube. I'm sure it wouldn't be a biggie though, certainly a restriction, just being pedantic.

[Meatheadinc]

1.5mm square wire on 3/4" inner with 1" outer.

IMG_20130525_164744 (800x600).jpg

I twisted some 1mm wire and stuffed it in the 3/4" to create some vapour turbulence (the 1/2" shown in the coil was removed)

IMG_20130525_171609 (600x800).jpg

[Kenster]

Meat...i must have lost the plot... the pics show a restriction in the water path...not the internal condensate tube... this has now got me well and truely rooted.
i was of the impression that the slower the condensate/vapour travelled down the internals, the better cooled product would be achieved.
is there an advantage in creating turbulence in the water jacket.
Thanks for the input from all and sundry...appreciate the devotion in helping out those in need.
Ken
WT.. yes..i did try soft with brazing flux cos i had it for the silver solder..thought it would be OK..obviously not.
I thought silver solder HAD to be fluxed as all the oxides and shit would contaminate the copper & weld preventing it from flowing and adhering.
My copper would glow red hot with the map but just would not flow/stick...you reckon..no flux will do it?
have u done it with copper to ss? coz i am looking to get my 3" pipe connected (oxy) to my T500 ss lid...no ferules etc...

[Kenster]

Meat... sorry...my comprehension is obviously very poor..the 1/2 inch was removed... i get it.. INTERNAL.. as i suspected.
There is no need to reply to a jerk who cant even understand a simple statement...
wish i could do pics... nice

[scythe]

2% & 5% don't "need" a flux, you could probably use one but they work fine without it, on copper at least.
I have always used a flux when working with stainless.
I use 45% when joining copper to stainless, and comweld 965, I think it is, as the flux.
But i have not used it for any food grade joins yet.

Aquasafe100 and bakers flux are the winner for soft soldering copper tho.

[Meatheadinc]

Sorry pics are abit misleading.
There is a coil in the water jacket and the vapour path.

is there an advantage in creating turbulence in the water jacket.

The coil in the water jacket forces the water around the inner tube.
Generally water inlet and out let are on the same side. Water will follow path of least resistance and without the coil or baffles can cool one side and leave a dead spot on the other. Eg. Added efficency

The coil in the vapour path is to add surface area and create turbulence again for added efficency mine is 3/4" vapour tube 1" outer. (Used on my VM).
The 1/2" inthe second picture inside the coil was used to insert the coil and then removed.

[Kenster]

Guys..thanks heaps.. really gaining a bit of knowledge here..lovin it really...bloody obsessive hobby though.
Went ahead and attached a spiral..2 twisted strands of aprox. 1.7mm wire in the water jacket and a single wire 'spring' wound around a 6mm copper tube as a mandrel..perfect fit for inside the 1/2 inch.
Aquasafe & bakers...finally got me out of the shit, so i am happy with my soldering up till now. I am using Map, they say LPG is good but i have run out, so it bugs me to use the expensive Map but what the heck.
i got a bloke to TIG the 3'' ss pipe to my ss T500 lid.50 bucks...nice job..didnt have the balls to solder or weld this one.
just waiting for my 3'' tri and some other bits and can start to bolt stuff together.

OFF THIS TOPIC... but saves me a new post...The distance from the bottom of the coldfinger to the top of the LM assembly...
should i leave a small chamber for the vapour to 'hang around in' for a while or should the distance be really close so it gets knocked back straight off.I realise i am begging for handout answers but i cant find actual distances as such.
I have an 'umbrella' to divert the falling vap (over a reducer style) LM, this sits directly above the VM T takeoff.
am just a bit nervous that if stuff is too far or too close i will not have the proper travel path...or am i just assuming it is much more complicated and these distances are crucial or maybe its not that much of a drama.
Cheers...Ken

[bluc]

bloody obsessive hobby though.

Wait till it gets you in your sleep :laughing-rolling: trust me it will happen :teasing-tease:

[Kenster]

bluc...i cant fucking sleep cos i just keep thinking of 'build' shit...
you dont have to warn me...i am well and truly possessed, way past the point of no return.

[Meatheadinc]

Leave about an inchor more between umbrella and condenser but distance here is not crucial

[WTDist]

bloody obsessive hobby though.

Wait till it gets you in your sleep :laughing-rolling: trust me it will happen :teasing-tease:

:laughing-rolling:
:text-+1:

[Kenster]

WT... it is ALREADY in my sleep... cant get shit out of my mind...
the build is going great, thanks to you guys.Creeping up to a 1200 x 3'' col...you did convince me that 2 was a bit lame.She's a big sucker.
Meat... an inch is good as it is the condenser sittin at its most comfortable/lowest point without any need to secure higher in the column...
just a few bits from H.Kong and i am off and runnin.
How do i clean out all the skerricks of leftover flux and grunge...vinegar run?
I tried to clean off as much as i could with a ss scrubber but some bits are impossible to get to.
TIA...Ken