Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Zak Griffin wrote:Are you building a bubbler or a pot?!

Looks like a couple of liebig fittings there mate ;-)

I was just referring to the stack of pipe there, should be plenty for the average pot...

Zak Griffin wrote:I was just referring to the stack of pipe there, should be plenty for the average pot...

It's all 2" pipe mate, bit small for a plate still ;-)

The DN-50 B stamp on the pipe gives you a clue ;-)

Ah. Looked a bit bigger than 50mm in the pic.

I'll get back in my box now!

no harm done mate, inquisitive is good :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Plan is to start with a pot, adding on a VM reflux head later and re-use the bottom tube (unpacked for pot, packed for reflux). Since I got a bit extra I might make a smaller riser for the pot head. This bubbler craze is something I haven't looked into in depth, but maybe after I've settled in with this setup I'll be hungry for more.

MacStill wrote:The DN-50 B stamp on the pipe gives you a clue ;-)

Got the magnifying glass out there and checked! :)

redcane wrote:First thing I've realised is the 2"->1" reducer doesn't fit on the pipe or inside it. How does that work?

With all fittings from 1"(I think :think: ) and up you'll require either couplings or a pipe expander...

The elbow is a tight fit, but obviously has an inner diameter to match the outer diameter of the pipe. The reducer might just fit in the elbow (instead of on a joining section of pipe), but it's going to be a much more difficult job. Not what I was expecting, but I'm sure I can make it work.

redcane wrote:

MacStill wrote:The DN-50 B stamp on the pipe gives you a clue ;-)

Got the magnifying glass out there and checked! :)

Nah I just dont miss much mate :))

This arrived:


There isn't that much of a lip on the spear fitting as I would have thought, but it should be fine. I guess I could use a threaded fitting, or use the threaded fitting to put in place a mesh to stop packing falling into the boiler. Either way it's good having your hands on something to work with.

Not much of a lip but it has worked for plenty of people :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Looking forward to seeing this one come together :)

Not sure if you're planning on a shotgun, but if you've got the copper there I think you should. I stripped 40L last night in a couple of hours, collecting about 4L/hr...

Zak Griffin wrote:Not sure if you're planning on a shotgun, but if you've got the copper there I think you should.

I guess I do have the copper. The extra 2" I've ended up with could be the outer shell. I'm not exactly sure what the advantage would be though. My best guess is:
Pros:
Shorter condensor length for heat extraction performance?
Lower water flow rate?

Cons:
Not sure how to build it - I think I can build a liebig without stuffing it up.

I already think I might need to up the water flow rate to limit the output temperature, so that might not be an advantage. I am thinking about getting a car radiator setup later on though.

redcane wrote:This arrived:

.

Now order your elements and fill port ferrule and cover from Mac at 5 star then take it all to Alan at Hubbleworks in Taminda and you will have the twin of mine!

(When you place an order with 5 star let me know please as I have a couple of little things I want and I will split postage with you!)

Cheers,

Richard

redcane wrote:This arrived:


There isn't that much of a lip on the spear fitting as I would have thought, but it should be fine. I guess I could use a threaded fitting, or use the threaded fitting to put in place a mesh to stop packing falling into the boiler. Either way it's good having your hands on something to work with.

A 2" tri clamp and ferrule will fit it perfectly with one of the flat 2" custom seals.

Like here

5 o'clock wrote:Now order your elements and fill port ferrule and cover from Mac at 5 star then take it all to Alan at Hubbleworks in Taminda and you will have the twin of mine!

I've chatting to my Dad about the difference between soldering, brazing and welding. He seems to think that welding stainless is beyond him, but the fill port doesn't need a very strong joint (just airtight) so we might be able to solder it. Otherwise Alan will definitely be getting a call :)

5 o'clock wrote:(When you place an order with 5 star let me know please as I have a couple of little things I want and I will split postage with you!)

No problems, although it could be a little while (as in a few pay days) before I put in an order. I also want to double check to make sure I order everything I need.

MacStill wrote:A 2" tri clamp and ferrule will fit it perfectly with one of the flat 2" custom seals.

Like here

P7142082.jpg

That looks almost exactly like what I've got in mind!
I had changed my mind on ferrules and was planning to go for easy flanges (after people here have insisted they really are easy!). I suppose an easy flange should work just as well, or is there an issue with the seal?

Yes easy flange will work just fine :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Great invention that easy flange.

On your image what sort of fitting is it between the 1"->1/2" reducer and the 1/2" elbow into the liebig? It looks like a (brass?) screw fitting so the condensor can be removed? I'm looking for a fitting for the same purpose but I'm not sure what you'd call it for when I go to the plumbing shop? Does 5star supply them? I best start building a wishlist on the 5star site!

Yeah they're pickled brass fittings, but you could use a 3/4" or 1" tri clamp union there if you can silver solder alright... even a SS compression fitting would do the trick.

The brass fittings pictured are available in Bunnings, not sure what you'd call them but they're in the plumbing section where all the copper fittings are.

Hey mate,
Once again I'm Just regurgitating advice given to me.. With regards to your VM reflux setup i noticed that you are leaving the top cap/condenser coil unsoldered as a pressure release, this is great however i believe that this should also be open to the atmosphere e.g. drill one or a few holes in the top of the cap.. You don't want the cap shooting off mid run.

Cheers

Fair enough - I was thinking of mounting the condenser loose through it's holes, but I will probably want to solder it square (even if not airtight). A separate vent hole is probably a good idea, since if there is enough pressure to lift the condensers weight there is probably already an issue!