Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Thank you for your concern, but yes I will for sure.
It'll be another set-up, with other parts. I'll buy an additional copper union for the liebig too.
One part will remain with the valve and the tri clamp part. The other union will be attached to another tri clamp male adapter, without valve...
I want to make my still as modular as possible, and scalable as well.
I haven't ordered the parts yet, but I'll post the solution here as soon as I get them. It'll take time, the circular saw I need to cut the pipe is at my wife's house and we won't go there before October...
I'll buy the pipe and some tools in July, some additional tri clamp fittings and copper fittings in August, the soup pots for the boiler in September and so on...
I'll have to buy an oxyacetylene torch as well...
In French we say:"L'argent est le nerf de la guerre" which could be translated like ' Money is the Backbone of War...'
Cheers
B

Hello, I've been quite silent for a while. Two main reasons, Budget, and Budget...
On the other hand I'm working on an additional project actually triggered by your huge bubblers that drove my jealous like a teenager whose girlfriend seems to search for other horizons...
When I got married I received a wedding gift from a German friend and this not very useful gift triggered a crazy idea. I could buy several asparagus cooking pots on the German Ebay for about nothing. They are made of stainless steel and measure Ø165mm x 245mm height. Do you get what I mean?
I worked out a solution to get rid of the valve in the still pot configuration and would like to share my method to fit stainless steel to copper. No TIG welding like I could see on other websites, but pure basic physics: dilatation The inner part goes into the refrigerator while the outer part gets a sunburn and that's the result. I need to cut the tube and to solder two 1" unions but as I said at the beginning, Budget...The next picture shows you the solution I used to avoid the risk of a closed valve. The Ø1'' pipe must be cut into two parts of course. Note that copper pipe and SS fittings aren't soldered, pure physics...
an insider view

Where's my yesterday post?

garouda wrote:Where's my yesterday post?

Why you asking me :teasing-tease:

Sorry mate couldn't resist, i'd direct questions like that to one of the moderators if you want a timely answer. :greetings-waveyellow:

garouda wrote:Where's my yesterday post?

Look up, i'ts right where you posted it :wtf:

Happy to give you the opportunity to post and contribute to this website :teasing-neener:

Today I started an operation I was fearing the most, making a coil...
First I used a spring which is normally designed to bend electricity PVC pipes, the inner Ø was just above 6.35mm.
I used 8 metres of ØOD 6.35mm pipe
I took a water plastic pipe like we have here in Thailand as core ØOD 35mm. The spring helped me at the beginning to form the sharp curves, later, with the help of my wonder woman wife, I could form the two layers of the coil. I cut a 60mm PVC pipe and used half of it to create a space between the two layers.
No salt no sand or any other B... S...
What you need to do is to create a resitance by holding the copper tube and forming the coil while someone helps you turning the forming core (sorry about my English). I'm considering adding a cold finger to it, although I'm quite confident it'll do the job on its own (adding a belt + a pair of braces...)

That is one sexy double helix mate! Nice job :handgestures-thumbupleft:

I'm not an electrician, but someone taught me how to do things. That's why I came to that idea. Here a picture.
In French we use to say that a picture is much more efficient than a long speech...
The Ø of my column is 3''(first project-big bubblers will come afterwards).

garouda wrote:Happy to give you the opportunity to post and contribute to this website :teasing-neener:

I feel honoured, thank you ^:)^

Honestly, it's all I could think of to say without the worry of scrutiny from the haters...... keep the pics coming champ, the builds looking great so far :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Urrazeb wrote:That is one sexy double helix mate! Nice job :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Thanks a lot! :handgestures-thumbupleft: I appreciate. My wife was a great contributor, which I believe is not so common whithin this hobby. :law-policered:

It has been a long time since I posted here, this because I moved to Loei after I retired and finishing my new house (some jobs still in progress...) became priority. Some progress here anyway, first to follow the wise adice about the pot still I attached two ferrules on both sides of a Ø1" piece of pipe, will cut it in two parts so there will be one connection with valve and one without.

I have a question about slanted plates. Do I really need two of them?(see drawing)

Here the progress I made:
The base is a Ø8" to Ø6" reduction followed by a Ø6" to Ø3" reduction. The reason is another project I have with a Ø6" column. (see my post on 26th September 2014 here above)

The top plate will make sure your thermo is reading vapor temp, without it reflux will be hitting it

Garouda you have mail

Slanted plates: gained from a Ø1' copper pipe section, hammered flat.

It's difficult to find copper coupling union fittings, so to avoid brass, I used a SS304 DN25 fitting on a Ø1" copper pipe section. Method, grind bot parts in order to have the same Ø, then place the copper part into the freezer and heat the SS fiting, manage to assemble both parts and force the copper inside the SS fitting using a small hammer and some oil.

Here the digital thermometer sensor, drill a Ø 1/8" hole to allow the thermometer passing through the compression connector.

Sam. wrote:The top plate will make sure your thermo is reading vapor temp, without it reflux will be hitting it

Thanks Sam. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Slanting plates template...
Some descriptive geometry.
Let’s first draw a circle with a 1.5” radius (Ø 3” column). Divide the circle in four by drawing two orthogonal diameters.

Now divide the circle into twelve equal parts. From each letter A, B, C, D, draw a circle (radius 1.5”) that cuts the directrix ( not a relative to Asterix and Obelix though) of the cylinder. Number those points from 1 to 12.

Now draw a generatrix from each of those 12 points. You’ll have 7 lines perpendicular to AB.

Draw your slanted plates at 30°.

You can see that a line starts from each point where the slant plate cuts a dirtrix.
On the right, draw a line parallel to AB. Length = 23.9cm (3x2.54X3.14159).
From the origin of this line draw a line and mark every 2cm from 1 to 24. We are using Thales theorem to divide our 23.9cm in twelve equal parts. Draw a line between the mark 24cm and the end of your 23.9cm line. From each division of the 24-centimetre line (every two cm) draw a parallel to that line and mark the sections on the 23.9cm line. You have now divided it into 12 equal segments. Mark them from 1 to 1. Draw lines from each point parallel to your generatrixes.

Now draw lines from each point where the slant plate cuts a generatrix, you will get the shape of your grooves. That's why it's iportant to number the 12 points on your circle. Mark stop points from the point you marked on the slanted plates (1cm overlap)
Use a cobra ruler to draw your curves.


two curves

The big picture...

Next step, see how it works on a piece of Ø 3” pipe. I had to buy 6m, so there’s some available for testing the method first.

that cuts the directrix ( not a relative to Asterix and Obelix though)

Hi there, great to see you back into the game,
I loved my time reading these comix , :))
I'm still reading this last post for the 3rd time. Bloody engineers, :laughing-rolling:

Rock wrote:that cuts the directrix ( not a relative to Asterix and Obelix though)

Hi there, great to see you back into the game, THANK YOU :razz:
I loved my time reading these comix , :))
I'm still reading this last post for the 3rd time. Bloody engineers, :laughing-rolling:

For your eyes only :dance:

Cutting grooves, or after theory, practice...
I used my angle grinder with thin blades that are SS specific, not easy nor perfect though, but who cares...
First place the template, use several layers of wide scotch tape

cut the grooves

put the slant plates inside the slot

mark and cut the slant plates. It's a rough cut because it'll be grinded after soldering.

Next step, (outlet, thermometer) involves soldering (tin silver) and I'm not that confident in using phosphoric acid as flux... need to gather some more information :geek:
No flux available where I live, that's why I bought some phosphoric acid...

garouda wrote:Slanting plates template...

Now draw a generatrix from each of those 12 points. You’ll have 7 lines perpendicular to AB.

Sorry, my mistake : :oops: You’ll have 7 lines perpendicular to DB