Importing NZ Copperhead Still Into AUS OR Other Options

[Sam.]

This is my first post and I have a few basic questions.

I have been brewing beer for 3 years and now wish to transition to distilling. I am looking for a copper still.

I am willing to spend up to $500 max.

I would prefer a pot still to preserve more of the flavour compounds and I have access to small oak barrels for ageing.

I am leaning towards some kind of still Column that can be fitted to a 50l beer keg into which a heating element can be installed.

I have done a few searches and what I have seen/read about the HBS products all tend to all have problem.

I have come across Copperhead stills form removed advertising), they seem to be better made then the HBS gear and from what I have been able to gather they seem to work okay.

Now if I import condenser unit will custom see this as a still, even if it does not have vessel per say?

Has anyone imported a Copperhead stills form NZ OR others form overseas into AUS? Have you had problems with customs?

Do you own a Copperhead stills is it any good?

I have also been eyeing one of these beauties by Removed advertising however I fear they would attract the wrong attention because it is a large vessel.

I am open to having something made in AUS but I have no contacts.

Any help would be appreciated.

[Sam.]

I moved your post here as it’s your first.

Please read our forum rules especially about advertising.

My best advice is read a fair bit on this forum before handing over your hard work earned coin :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[A&O]

Hi and welcome. I’m a newbee as well and after reading (and still reading even re-reading) I’ve decided to build my own than buy off the shelf. It’ll probably cost me close to the same as buying a FSD rig similar to the bubbler I’m building but I’ve got the time and enough knowledge and skill to get me into trouble to get something that is uniquely mine.

If you have some patience, know which end of the hammer to hold, using bits and pieces bought from hardware store of any colour, plumbing co-op, even some hbs, you will be able to make your own still head in a pretty short time but also well within you budget, maybe even have enough leftover to convert a keg to a boiler. And it’ll be yours, with the added satisfaction of the spirit coming from it will taste so much better because it’s from your still.

Read through the Newbies section and also some of the pot still builds and you’ll see how some of the good folk here have built their stills. I can certainly say, every one here is more than willing to help and offer their expertise which I have found invaluable.

Welcome and Good luck.

[PeterC]

When I started I got a 50L keg and installed an element (later a second). On this (after experimenting with crumby HBS stuff) I put a stainless steel pot still like this http://www.5stardistilling.net/2-pot-still/ it even comes with some copper mesh. I now use all of this on a 4 inch bubbler no money wasted. Well under your budget and reusable. You can get accessories like temperature port or thermowell, parrot etc. too easy. I don't even use my original keg anymore as I now have gone to one with a larger opening, put legs and drain on, view port, fill port etc.

Go with the custom stuff and it may end up on the shelf later unless you shine it up and put it on the mantle piece. I would rather be a bit more discrete but that Portuguese still would make a good talking point.

Have fun
Peter C.

[spamisnotham]

Thanks for the feedback - I spoke to my friend and we have opted to build our own.

I found a local supplier of 50mm copper tube and fittings and using clamps/ferrules/seals from 5 Star we can build a custom rig with in our budget.

I am drawing up a plan and will post back for comments.

[spamisnotham]

Here is version 01, using 50mm copper tube with an X-wall of 1.6mm to form the main body and using CLAMPS/FERRULES to connect to keg or 2" X 3/4" REDUCER.

The column and Lyne arm are cut at 30º angle and welded the condenser connects at 45º and welded. The lengths of section were copied directly from 5 Star.

I am thinking of making the column shorter to retain more flavours more of a pot still.

The condenser has a copper worm inside it, to increase cooling while reducing water usage.

I am considering adding a thumper inline. But I have to think it through some more.

[orcy]

Use 4 inch for the riser. Slow that vapour down and give it some time react with the copper. I love my 4 inch pot.

[spamisnotham]

How about making the whole thing from 4" / 100mm copper?

If I buy the whole 6 meter length of copper I will only need 2 meters would people be keen to buy the left overs copper tubing?

[spamisnotham]

Updated 100mm copper pipe version 02. Will need to add a two 100mm to 50 mm reducers to accommodated the now larger tube.

Also reduced the riser to 400mm. This also gives me the option of adding a sight glass to the riser in time.

[bluc]

How about making the whole thing from 4" / 100mm copper?

If I buy the whole 6 meter length of copper I will only need 2 meters would people be keen to buy the left overs copper tubing?

I doubt you would have an issue getting rid of 4" copper here. Ditch the coiled condenser build a shotgun if a challenge doesn't worry you, or a liebig for simplicity.
If you build a 2" shotgun and make it modular you can use it down the track on a bubbler.

If you can build a pot still and afford a 6m length of 4" personally I would build a bubbler. I have just built one and is very do able for a newbie. Albiet a bit of work. Or keep enough 4" for a bubbler down the track.
It is a very rewarding hobby and if you like a drink you will love the hobby. Its fairly easy to make a good drop once you get the hang of doing cuts..

[spamisnotham]

I welcome all suggestion and ideas. I will discuss options with my mate.

I am planing to outsource the welding of the copper tube and attaching the ferrules to a guy who knows his stuff. So I plan to do as little as possible myself, as I am not setup for working metal in terms of space or tools.

So I am looking for modular and simple, but it all depends on the cost of labour.

[RC Al]

My local guy quoted me $80 an hour to do whatever i want him to... happy enough with that (wrong end of the country for you though lols)

In the modular theme, consider making the lyne arm angle adjustable, this will give you flavor/strength options depending on the type of mash you want to run

[spamisnotham]

How do you make the Lyne arm adjustable?

$80 is not bad seems about average some blokes charge $60 with price rising up to $100 per hour.

[RC Al]

90 degree bend at the top of the body - tri clamp - 45 or 90 on the product cooler - it ends up pointed a different direction, the tri clamp lets you change it

[woodduck]

Mate I recon you need to spend some time in here

viewforum.php?f=7

And have a read. Alot of your questions will be answered and you will discover heaps of stuff you hadn't even thought of :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[RC Al]

:text-+1:
you prob need at least another 1-4 weeks of reading before you buy or construct anything, I personally started buying copper 6 weeks ago and have probably gone through a couple of thousand posts on various forums since then and still havent fully made up my mind as what to build

Power availability, water, work space, mashing and storage space are all factors that need to be addressed as well as a shit ton of other things, initial planning will save you money in the long run

[spamisnotham]

I may know nothing about distilling but I am not foolish. I have two friends who are very extremely experienced distillers. I will largely follow their lead.

I take what people say here and then run it past them and around I go.

We have agreed to use 4" copper tube and to use a shotgun condenser.

I have added a space to which a sight glass/aromatics basket could be added.

I have forwarded a plan to one of them and then wait to see what he says since he will be building it.

This is what looks now at v3.

My costing project that it will be cheaper then anything I can buy and my friend says it will work much better.

[The Stig]

You'll need to add a parrot onto the end of this rig :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[PeterC]

Hi, You may want to think about how you will wash out the keg boiler especially if you get residue from botanicals in there. I had a similar setup and not distilling frequently I left the keg upside down so it drained dry as leaving it wet it grew mould which was difficult to clean. I did not want to leave it filled with disinfectant. Emptying the thing after a run was also difficult. I had to get a trolley to move it and tip it over somewhere then clean up. My next boiler I had a 4 inch ferrule on the bottom for my still connection and the original opening became the drain. If you want to keep the cost down just blank it off for now but at least you can hose out the thing. You could fit legs and a permanent drain with valve later if you want to go further.

[spamisnotham]

You'll need to add a parrot onto the end of this rig :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Would be nice.