Needle valve

[Tapi1956]

Hi everyone
My name is Larry from Perth and I’m new to distilling but it’s so addictive. I got an air still for Xmas and although it was fun to start and has got me hooked, it didn’t take long to realise the restrictions of the air still. I have been stripping my tomato wash and then redistilling just to get some bearable neutrals (listen to me with all he jargon already).
I have been researching this forum and others every night and learning so much about the type of still I would like to build (which is another part of the hobby that is addictive).
I have decided on a VM reflux after initially thinking about a Boka.
The only thing I have been stumped with is the needle/gate valve connection.

A lot of the threads link to a female threaded valves. Maybe a stupid question but how do you connect a 1” female valve to the copper pipe.
Tapi

[hillzabilly]

G-day mate something like this.cheers hillzabilly :D

[hillzabilly]

Try calling in at Stirlings in Fremanle for staino stuff.cheers hillzabilly ;-)

[Tapi1956]

Thanks hillzabilly
Would you believe that is the actual design I have settled on
Tapi

[hillzabilly]

If ya ask for a 1inch Nipple Toe in 316 or 304 stainless wich may be what ya after,and take the bits ya need ta join to along will make for a better choice.cheers hillzabilly ;-)

[warramungas]

Isn't there a lot of dead space above that valve that could fill and smear your product?
Its not one I'm familiar with but maybe come off and keep the valve horizontal then elbow after and go down into the PC? :think:

[Tapi1956]

Thanks warramungas. So if I use a 1” needle valve just past the 2” T fitting that would be much better. Would the 1”valve be big enough
Tapi

[Sam.]

Welcome here mate :handgestures-thumbupleft:

I’m sure you will end up with what you are after :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[warramungas]

Thanks warramungas. So if I use a 1” needle valve just past the 2” T fitting that would be much better. Would the 1”valve be big enough
Tapi

VM stills are not really my thing mate. That sounds better without the elbow but I believe a gate valve is also suitable for a VM and would be cheaper to use as well. Maybe someone used to these things can chip in some info?

[pat_00]

I built a hybrid 2" boka/ccvm. I use the slant plates to bleed of the fores and then move the coil to start collecting the rest. Makes great clean spirit. Only thing I would do different is maybe go 3" for faster takeoff speed.

[Tapi1956]

Thanks everyone. Much appreciated
Tapi

[RC Al]

ccvm is the better way to go
If you use a valve smaller than the column, it instantly increases the reflux ratio and reduces the output rate, which may help you hit a higher Abv, but you won't have the choice to run it fast n dirty for flavored drinks

[Mattq71]

Welcome Larry

[Braveheart]

Hi Larry,

Check out the pic in my hello, Last year I went through just what you are doing. The end result is a very effective unit that gives me 96% end product. I also threaded mt reflux condenser on the top so that I can remove it for the stripping run. My design is pretty much the same as the diagram above except I put a 25mm brass gate valve right at the VM tee. I find it gives me all the fine control I need right up to 50% reflux ratio.

After building a few previous stills, this one I built using all copper and brass with the only stainless steel in the boiler.

[Sam.]

Just be careful of brass mate some can contain lead that could leech into your spirit

[Braveheart]

Yes good point, I wouldn't use cheap asian brass fittings. Naval brass (zero lead), low lead or lead-free brass fittings and valves per new USA and EU standards would be my preference. I believe the Australian Standard compliant fittings are low-lead for exactly the reasons you express.