Hello

[Professor Green]

I'm not sure just 500mm of packed section will achieve what you're after, you would need at least 4 plates and the packed section for neutral. If you are looking at building up to a neutraliser, you are probably better off going with the pot still first, then add the plate sections, RC and finally the packed section. This will get you making great pot stilled whisky up front, then single pass great whisky with the plates and RC followed by exceptional neutral by adding the packed section. This is how I built my neutraliser up.

As for boilers, if you have 4" still mount (or fill port) on the keg, cleaning shouldn't be any more difficult than it is for a milk can. Just remember with a keg you'll need to get the holes cut and ports welded on unless you can find one ready made second hand. Oh, and the 5 Star milk cans are sex on a stick.

[dans.brew]

Another question. Keg vs milk can?
I have read that milk cans can be cleaned easier with the larger opening. Any other benefits?

I just run a keg and are happy... depends how much coin you have to spend i suppose. If you have mates and the right contacts setting up a keg can work out not too bad $ wise.
One thing possibly in favour of a milk can is the bottom element i reckon would be closer to the floor of the can compared to a keg. My keg has a large curve in the top and bottom edge which doesn't allow the elements to go right down as low as possible. For large runs this isnt a problem, but if you ever want to do something on a small scale then you need to be carefull.
I don't really stick my arm in mine too often to clean... mine is a 4" ferrule, 6" or 8" would be really good.
Hope this helps. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Jayess]

Thanks Prof and Dan
The milk cans do look good, but the kegs are definitely cheaper. Could add a plate section or 2 for the difference in $.
I love this forum, everyone is so generous sharing their knowledge.

[dans.brew]

No probs jayess... the prof is correct in saying you will need plates to get a high Abv as the packed section is just as much for removing flavours from your neutral.
After re reading your original question i didnt really read it properly and i would hate to give you the wrong advice.

[The Stig]

but the kegs are definitely cheaper.

If you can cut and weld yourself , this is true.
If you need to farm out the cutting and welding the difference becomes much less and a milk can looks so much better .
Just a thought that so many have said in the past.

[db1979]

but the kegs are definitely cheaper.

If you can cut and weld yourself , this is true.
If you need to farm out the cutting and welding the difference becomes much less and a milk can looks so much better .
Just a thought that so many have said in the past.

:text-+1:
Cost of the keg, element ports, drain and fill port parts and welding all add up.

[Jayess]

Thank you for the advice based on experience.

Oh, and the 5 Star milk cans are sex on a stick.

a milk can looks so much better

Am I reading between the lines correctly that the ladies love the milk can? :laughing-rolling:

[southern45]

Thanks Prof
I have been reading heaps. Sort of makes the head spin.
With the likelihood of any still I make looking like a half chewed minty, I want to buy right once. Hence I will go the modular route, with the aim being a bubbler at the end.

That's a smart move.

If I could offer one piece of advice to a newbie (and I am still pretty green myself) it's to go MODULAR! Start with a modular pot still and then if you ever fancy it (you will) upgrade over time to the full bubbler system. They're not as scary or complicated as they look. Don't cheap out at first with brew shop rubbish. Trust me, I took the loooooong way around before finally getting a 5 Star bubbler and could have saved myself a lot of cash.