Re: Greetings and salutations...
Posted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 6:13 am
Yeah that is essentially what i found to happen this time woodduck, i think i probably worked that out last time but as it was so long ago i simply forgot...
Heating the ends of the RC transfers enough heat to the side walls for the solder to wick across the join.
Had it down pat by the time i got to the tubes.
I reckon i only spent about 1hr maybe 1.5hrs actually re-soldering it up.
If i had enough 2" pipe i would have made another new end plate as the new one was a much better fit in all aspects.
Also for as cleanly as oxy appears to burn, when set up properly, it doesn't, or maybe its just too hot and burning away the patina making it go black much faster (copper oxide is black).
Anywho i will give the easy flanges a good cleaning at the solder join and get them to stick properly this time.
Texta:
My workmate made some L-shaped hinges for his grandma's cupboard similarly to your method.
Milled the shape into the face of a bit of bar and then parted them off in the lathe to width (1.5mm IIRC).
Heating the ends of the RC transfers enough heat to the side walls for the solder to wick across the join.
Had it down pat by the time i got to the tubes.
I reckon i only spent about 1hr maybe 1.5hrs actually re-soldering it up.
If i had enough 2" pipe i would have made another new end plate as the new one was a much better fit in all aspects.
Also for as cleanly as oxy appears to burn, when set up properly, it doesn't, or maybe its just too hot and burning away the patina making it go black much faster (copper oxide is black).
Anywho i will give the easy flanges a good cleaning at the solder join and get them to stick properly this time.
Texta:
My workmate made some L-shaped hinges for his grandma's cupboard similarly to your method.
Milled the shape into the face of a bit of bar and then parted them off in the lathe to width (1.5mm IIRC).