Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Hello all.

First time TPW for me. Followed the recipe on the first page to the letter.

I'm impatient haha.

My wash has finished fermenting. It's been down for 7 days and has a SG between 980-990.

I know I'm meant to wait for another week or two for it to clear itself more, but will I do any harm running it tomorrow?

Thanks in advance.

No not all but you will get a better product if you wait. Well I did but I was like you had to distill it but put another straight down so you can let the next one sit.

PHANTMXR6 wrote:Hello all.

First time TPW for me. Followed the recipe on the first page to the letter.

I'm impatient haha.

My wash has finished fermenting. It's been down for 7 days and has a SG between 980-990.

I know I'm meant to wait for another week or two for it to clear itself more, but will I do any harm running it tomorrow?

Thanks in advance.

I have moved your first post to the welcome area ;-)

Welcome mate :handgestures-thumbupleft:
You will only get a bit of yeasty flavour carry over, some like the taste and some don't. Its all up to what you like.
:D

Thanks guys. Might leave it for another week for the school holidays then get it done.

I just bought a pair of 30L fermenters for the next two batches of wash to start fermenting.

phant... if u drag it off a bit slower, only the vapour(alc) will be drawn off... not all the other shit/solids that happens to be in the boiler.
when the old wog boys, (my dad and his mates) did a fruit wash all the skins,and dreggsy stuff was put into the wash/boiler... guess what came out... clear booze.... all this 'wait till it settles ' stuff can be a bit over the top..really, it is just to prevent all the burning flavours if it cooks onto the internal element/s.
Strictly speaking... i ts better to wait... but... it aint the gospel.

The reason we let a wash settle, or 'clear', especially for a neutral, is because the suspended solids in the wash will impart some flavour into the product. We're not worried about yeast and shit in the final product, the only way that can happen is if your still pukes.

You're doing good Phantom, and welcome to the forum :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Kenster wrote:phant... if u drag it off a bit slower, only the vapour(alc) will be drawn off... not all the other shit/solids that happens to be in the boiler.
when the old wog boys, (my dad and his mates) did a fruit wash all the skins,and dreggsy stuff was put into the wash/boiler... guess what came out... clear booze.... all this 'wait till it settles ' stuff can be a bit over the top..really, it is just to prevent all the burning flavours if it cooks onto the internal element/s.
Strictly speaking... i ts better to wait... but... it aint the gospel.

I'm with Zak here.

Yeah it might come off clear from the still but you can get some awful clear product.

Can't compare grappa to nuetrel ;-)

Well I'll be doing a stripping run this weekend.
Not sure how I drag it off slower as there is no speed dial on my setup. lol

Will see how I go and report back next week.

PHANTMXR6 wrote:Well I'll be doing a stripping run this weekend.
Not sure how I drag it off slower as there is no speed dial on my setup. lol

Will see how I go and report back next week.

By using a voltage controller if you have a boiler with electric elements
A lower power input means it will still boil, however less vigorously and less evaporation, hence slower
If you're on gas, just turn the gas down

Don't have a voltage controller unfortunately.

I just hope my Pure Distilling condenser is capable of a stripping run...

Phant...get onto fleabay and suss out a voltage controller.... under 20 bucks.. WELL worth it as can control the rate at which u can take off...less voltage = less vigorous boil = better control .U will eventually need one...

Well stripping run with no cooling was a fail. Puked all over the wall. :puke-huge:

Had to hook up the cooling lines and ran it as per normal.

Yield was approx. 7.5L @ 40% by the time I watered it down for a second run.

Final yield was probably just under 7L @ 40%.

Two fresh 25L batches of TPW were put down this morning also.

Next time I run I'll be trying to do cuts, if I get organised in time..

Anyone care to share their recommendations for a voltage controller arrangement?

I have a 30L Pure Distilling kit with their branded Beer Me Boiler. It has a 2000W element.

Why didn't you have your cooling water on when you turned the still on mate? No cooling water means ethanol vapour coming out, which means you have a potentially explosive and deadly situation. I turn my water on first then the still, have never run my still with the water off even though the instructions say you don't have to turn the water on until the thermometer reads 50 degrees. Also tomato past jars make great cut jars, so do pickle jars :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Plumby wrote:Why didn't you have your cooling water on when you turned the still on mate? No cooling water means ethanol vapour coming out, which means you have a potentially explosive and deadly situation. :

I asked the question of a colleague and he said no need for cooling....

Maybe for some condensers but clearly not for the Pure Distilling one.

Never mind. Live an learn I guess.

I find that very hard to believe mate, if you have no cooling water how do you condense the ethanol vapour?

Plumby wrote:I find that very hard to believe mate, if you have no cooling water how do you condense the ethanol vapour?

No idea. Different condensers work differently I guess?

Did you have no water at all or just no water to the reflux condenser with water still going to the product condenser?

Because if you had no water at all then you are turning the immediate vicinity into a bomb! All it takes is a spark and your garage explodes!

The only still that uses no water is an air still. If it has connections for hoses it needs water to condense the vapour regardless of the condensor type. Mabey your colleague was wrong.

Your mate was probably talking about a still that has a seperate RC or reflux condencer and a seperate PC or product condencer,the RC if your still had seperate one(wich it does not ,it uses the same condencer for reflux and product) is not used when stripping ,for your still stripping would be achieved by opening the product output valve flat out and haveing cooling water running flat out too,in my opinion .cheers hillzabilly

Your still is a LM plz read this viewtopic.php?f=57&t=3117 for a bit more info.cheers hillzabilly ;-)