db1979 wrote:Not enough control for an RC, better off with a gate valve. You don't need to have a large gate valve, 1/2" is fine. Pressure loss occurs when you have a small diameter over a long distance. If it's just a small section of the cooling lines it won't affect it. And when you're collecting product you'll find the valve is almost completely closed anyway.
Aussiedownunder01 wrote:I thing you are making it to complicated on mine the water comes out of the tap into the bottom of the pc out the top to the rc then out of that to the garden or fruit trees
I have a temp gauge on the rc water and above the rc as soon as it heats up i can dial in the temps i want 29.6 rc and 77.4 above aA mate came around to see a run he was amazed how i didn't touch a thing for the run he has a t 500 and he has to watch it like a hawk i have done a few runs :oops: no problem and if i want a striping run just no water in the rc
The Stig wrote:Just dont set it up the wrong way round Ned :laughing-rolling: :teasing-neener:
Matt_Pl wrote:
When I replaced my braded lines I doubled the flow through the still. It made a huge impact.
Cheers
Matt
The Stig wrote:Think I’ll be off to bumming Friday to see if I can get all the fittings to change over from braids
Aussiedownunder01 wrote:I thing you are making it to complicated on mine the water comes out of the tap into the bottom of the pc out the top to the rc then out of that to the garden or fruit trees
I have a temp gauge on the rc water and above the rc as soon as it heats up i can dial in the temps i want 29.6 rc and 77.4 above aA mate came around to see a run he was amazed how i didn't touch a thing for the run he has a t 500 and he has to watch it like a hawk i have done a few runs :oops: no problem and if i want a striping run just no water in the rc
db1979 wrote:Having an empty RC isn't necessary for stripping but it makes heatup faster as water requires lots more heat than copper to heat up. It's a simple and effective way to cut time out of the run.
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