Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Wipe bottle brush off too. Rinse your stubbies out when you empty them and they don't grow mould!

good point. was going to rinse but didnt think of that :handgestures-thumbupleft:

might sneek one in one day at the shops anyway :shifty: one thats not on the budget :))

easiest set up would be a 50L pot from a&j trading in the valley fitted with an electric element. Then google brew in a bag.

If you want to get some beer down straight away try the mangrove jacks kits in the pouch. Kits are miles above what they used to be and when i tasted one recently i didnt believe it was just a kit. I think the kits come with hops and yeast as well. They are a little more expensive than those ones in the can but they shit all over them in terms of quality. Im 90% sure annerely brew store carries the pouches.

A step up from that is just buy a fresh wort kit from craftbrewer. They are $50 each but you get 2 and a bit cartons of premium beer.

make sure to get an stc1000 to control your fermentation temps. If you cant control the ferment temp just make saison instead :)

ekul wrote:make sure to get an stc1000 to control your fermentation temps.

just did a 30min google and youtube research on stc1000 and wiring them up. thank you.

i will defiantly be getting one of those. i wonder if it can work with heating up the mash/wort. um boiling grains in pot/keg. still not familiar with right term there but im now wondering if i use the stc1000 can i use the heating output and set the temp to say 65 degrees or what ever i need. Like a PID controller in a way? my mate that checked my power controller kept trying to get me to make a PID controller as they are safer in his opinion.

basically wondering if i can use it to cycle the power on/off with the FSD element to boil my grains? considering it wont be reducing power output i dont initially see a need for a fan in the controller as its only an on/off cycle?

i guess ill start a thread for this in the electrical section when the time is right

easiest set up would be a 50L pot from a&j trading in the valley fitted with an electric element.

did a google, found them but no webpage at the moment. you know of any prices of their 50L pots?

If you want to get some beer down straight away try the mangrove jacks kits in the pouch. Kits are miles above what they used to be and when i tasted one recently i didnt believe it was just a kit. I think the kits come with hops and yeast as well. They are a little more expensive than those ones in the can but they shit all over them in terms of quality. Im 90% sure annerely brew store carries the pouches.

been googling brew kits also. found a tooheys extra dry one i might give a go. $40 once i guy the extract dextrose some dry thing yeast and hops. 22L it said. this is it here. ill give a couple a go while i get my key or pot ready for action. plus ill be a newb 8-}

going the BIAB way. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

is it just my initial research or is an all grain beer cheaper than their extract kits/recipes ?

Cheers
WTD

WTDist wrote:if i was to get a 50L pot, would a $50 keg with the top cut off do the job? and an FSD element? just thinking at the moment. the reason i mentioned a 30l pot was from a you tube vid i watched. my fermenter is 30L so it will have to be only big enough to fill that to a reasonable capacity. thought a 30L might fit on the stove? :))

reason i wanted a chiller was i saw on a few vids that after boiling it you need to get it down to a good temp faster the better to avoid infection. just something to chill it to yeast pitching temp. like this


but just enough for what i need. can make it myself dont need to buy it :handgestures-thumbupleft:

would it really be hard to bring it down to temp? But yes im a little concerned about my brewing process. my hygiene with distilling was a hose spraying out the fermenters :))

No Chilling is when you run off into an HDPE cube/jerrycan while the wort is still above 80C and squeeze all the air out, then seal up the lid
because the wort is still close to boiling, it'll pasteurize the insides and kill any residual bugs (as long as it's decently clean)
I've had wort in no chill cubes for near on a year before pouring into the fermenter, no infections

Also ignore the people who say squeezing the bag creates tannins, that's a complete load of crap and has been disproved THOUSANDS of times
Hell, there are commercial brewing systems that pump the grain into plates and squeeze all the goodness out and they have no problems with tannins

sp0rk wrote:

WTDist wrote:if i was to get a 50L pot, would a $50 keg with the top cut off do the job? and an FSD element? just thinking at the moment. the reason i mentioned a 30l pot was from a you tube vid i watched. my fermenter is 30L so it will have to be only big enough to fill that to a reasonable capacity. thought a 30L might fit on the stove? :))

reason i wanted a chiller was i saw on a few vids that after boiling it you need to get it down to a good temp faster the better to avoid infection. just something to chill it to yeast pitching temp. like this


but just enough for what i need. can make it myself dont need to buy it :handgestures-thumbupleft:

would it really be hard to bring it down to temp? But yes im a little concerned about my brewing process. my hygiene with distilling was a hose spraying out the fermenters :))

No Chilling is when you run off into an HDPE cube/jerrycan while the wort is still above 80C and squeeze all the air out, then seal up the lid
because the wort is still close to boiling, it'll pasteurize the insides and kill any residual bugs (as long as it's decently clean)
I've had wort in no chill cubes for near on a year before pouring into the fermenter, no infections

Also ignore the people who say squeezing the bag creates tannins, that's a complete load of crap and has been disproved THOUSANDS of times
Hell, there are commercial brewing systems that pump the grain into plates and squeeze all the goodness out and they have no problems with tannins

cheers spork. ill do that i think. i saw in one of docs all vids he was mashing and put it in those containers and rolled em around to sterilize the inside since its all still hot. sounds like a good thing to do. spend a weekend doing batch after batch and store them till ready :think:

Prob be better too. not sure how much 15-30m of 1/2" will cost. sure be a bit :shock:

crash chilling can be important to get desired hop profiles... with that said you can just change when you put them in and how much
that tends not to be something we even care about so just crash chill

doesnt look like my mate wants it. doesnt seem into distilling... his words not mine. how can you not like distilling :violence-smack:

since it wont be mates rates now ive been looking at HERMS... think i want to make one :D

like Big D's version with the fire extinguisher and the coil out the top like a boka, sorta i guess. cheaper than copper :?

ekul wrote:make sure to get an stc1000 to control your fermentation temps.

:text-+1: Controlling temps is the best way to make great beer.

BIAB and no chill gets my vote for cheap and easy as well.