Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

I think I pinched the measurements for the modules of milky

Im with professor dont think it matters as long as you have clearence on the clamp.

Ok cheers I'm going to bring the t piece in a bit as I'm not happy how far out it is

shortening the 3 inch ferrule

progress on the rc

a few more

will try finish the welding on my lunch break tomorrow

progress on my pc

modules before sight glass

I had the pipe and two ferrules in this clamp so I was able to tack weld it together

Nice skillls mate. :handgestures-thumbupleft:
Love the clamp! Very high tech lol.
Ash

Dude, them skills!! ^:)^
This is a good build! I love staino :D

I'm calling this mark 1 a bigg do do happened my tig broke So thought I'll use works and it to was friggin broken so me having no patience stick welded the ferrules on then machined the welds back then touched a few spots up with a grinder which scratched it all up so got some serious buffing to do but on the upside work got a flash as tig welder today works sweet but ran out of argon five bottles in the shop all empty aaaahh so moral of the story have patience use a tig lol

Being a fitter not a welder, I was going to have a crack at stick welding some stainless. You obviously don't recommend it mate? Builds coming along nicely btw... :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Haha I'm a boily now doing a fitters apprenticeship if I was to do it again I would be more pedantic about alignment cuz it makes a pain in the ass to machine

Professor Green wrote: I'm not a still builder so this is purely based on my own logical reasoning but I think the main reason the tee is put to the middle rather than offset to towards the bottom is probably for triclamp clearance so I can't see why you couldn't mount them lower if you have the clearance to do so. For what it's worth, I have no problem seeing the plate action on my neutraliser which has the sights mounted in the middle but your tees look like they're slightly taller so that might have an impact on your plate visibility.
Cheers,
Prof. Green.

Commercial builders would want to only use as much stainless as needed plus longer Tees makes a taller still. You show 4 Tees in the photo, are you going to go 5 high? Then add your RC, reducer and elbows or block head makes for a very tall still. Looks like you have the head room for it, (just don't get a nose bleed climbing the ladder when assembling :laughing-rolling: ). Once you hang your PC and parrot on it the taller it is, the more likely to tip I would think. Maybe add some feet to the keg for stability? Make a longer downcomer so the PC is at a reasonable height to lower the centre of gravity and the parrot is coming to a reasonable height. If you look at the FSD packed section kit so you can do neutrals on a bubbler, they also sell a 3/4 inch piece to bring the parrot back to same position but the FSD Neutraliser does it better I think with a 2 inch extension before the PC. Makes it easier to get to your water connections and many put their flow control valves at the bottom of the PC and RC.

I think it is a wise move to cut all your pieces and lay it out before welding so you get all the detail right and weld once.

I wish you good luck I can only look on with envy as for me buying is my only real option. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

It stands as tall as me with 4 sections and an rc so unsure where that came from and I'm a short ass lol

CyBaThUg wrote:Haha I'm a boily now doing a fitters apprenticeship if I was to do it again I would be more pedantic about alignment cuz it makes a pain in the ass to machine

Good to hear you're moving to the top of the tradie tree mate! :laughing-rolling: :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Haha I've gone to the dark side

At least I'm not a sparky :laughing-rolling: