3" SS/Copper bubbler build

[scottyd72]

Interesting 2" flange.
Where did you find that?

Yeah like bluc said its just an easy flange, but a very dodgy one at that.

[scottyd72]

More progress...

about to silver solder the 2" PC

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Soldering the coolant lines

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[scottyd72]

Sanding the flange flat..

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soldering done...

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Fabricating a cone to go after the PC...

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[scottyd72]

Cone construction...

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[scottyd72]

Oh a quick question, I have a parrot ready but I made it out of 6mm copper tube. Is this too small? If I use this one I'll have to drill a hole in the bottom and tap in a drain valve.

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[scottyd72]

Hmmm almost left the 3" RC core in the vinegar for too long... suffice to say its nice and clean now... so tomorrow arvo i'll finish the RC build.

[bluc]

Parrot body should be inch and as short as possible :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[scottyd72]

Parrot body should be inch and as short as possible :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Yeah the body is but I’m wondering if I’ve made the inlet and outlet pipes too small?

[bluc]

OK I have 12mm only because it was easy to get but i reakon 6mm would be heaps..

[woodduck]

Coming along nicely mate.

I recon 6mm will be too small mate, I think it might just be a little restrictive?

[db1979]

I've got 6 mm on my parrot outlet and it is too narrow, air gets sucked in from the top of the 6 mm and causes the parrot beak to sputter. My parrot is not connected to my PC so it's not a surging issue. I've got 10 mm on the parrot inlet. I'll change the 6mm over to 10 mm eventually.

[scottyd72]

Thanks dB & woody, I was thinking 6mm may be small as I use it on my LM still which works well for that as the production rate is very slow.

[scottyd72]

small update...

building a new parrot...

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Decided to make my own custom hose fittings for the PC and RC shut off valves... 1/2" BSP to 15mm hose fitting...

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Still have to clean up those solder joints on the grinder.

[scythe]

I did the same thing to pressure test the first attempt at my RC.
But i used soft solder.

[scottyd72]

I did the same thing to pressure test the first attempt at my RC.
But i used soft solder.

Ah nice :handgestures-thumbupleft: how did it go?

[scythe]

Best sprinkler I've ever made.
Haven't gotten around to retesting it yet.

[hillzabilly]

I always use thread tape on stainless to stainless threads as they can gaul and seize up damaging both threads and makes undoing it very hard.Good idear for other threaded joins too.cheers hillzabilly ;-)

[scythe]

I waa more referring to my first attempt at soldering my RC. :laughing-rolling:

[scottyd72]

Ok so I'm just dropping in here to say that I'm reviving my bubble plate project. I've moved house a few times since starting it and I now have my own small shed to finish this build.

I now need to work out wether I make perforated plates or continue with the risers and downcomers.... not sure which way to go here.

The plan with this build is to use the bubbler on my 30ltr boiler that runs my LM. I realise that a 3" wont go nearly as fast as a 4" and I am not worried about speed or quantity thus far. I won't be using the bubbler for neutral runs as the LM can do that easy enough.

I'll post some update pics tomorrow of the parts on the bench and whats next as I still have some TIG welding to do (and I have a new machine to help me with it).

[scottyd72]

Ok I did some TIG welding yesterday and I found that the stainless steel pipe I'm using is a bit thin and I had a few holes blow thru... still have to finish two of the tees.

So here are some pics, suffice to say I have a lot of grinding and polishing to do yet!

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I used a 1mm thick disc to cut out the bulk of the flange area to go into the tees then grinded them round with a 3inch wheel...

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Then tacked them in...

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Then the hard part!! damn thin wall didn't make it easy!

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Have a few holes still to fill maybe tomorrow.

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