Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

This is OFF TOPIC!!


:laughing-rolling:

Getting closer now! Just one more cone and she'll be alive :handgestures-thumbupleft:

This 6"-4" cone definitely isn't the prettiest thing I've put together but it's only temporary until the new boiler is up and running.

Man that looks awesome. I think a bigger boiler may be needed by the time your in full reflux the alcohol will all be in the still :D

That’s a work of art, looking fantastic :handgestures-thumbupleft:

bluc wrote:Man that looks awesome. I think a bigger boiler may be needed by the time your in full reflux the alcohol will all be in the still :D

She does look awesome! I recon the boiler you've got would be fantastic, you'd smash through a wash in no time :handgestures-thumbupleft:

A thing of beauty as usual woody :handgestures-thumbupleft: sad to see the glass duck slouched in the corner though :laughing-rolling:

Doubleuj wrote:A thing of beauty as usual woody :handgestures-thumbupleft: sad to see the glass duck slouched in the corner though :laughing-rolling:

Yer she does look a bit sad there :crying-blue: she'll regain her spot back up there once the new boliers done. She won't be forgotten and unloved, I still need to make neutral with something :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Thanks for the compliments guys. I love sharing this stuff with you guys that enjoy copper porn as much as me. :-D

Cracker of a job woodduck. Nice one.

Cheers,
Prof. Green.

Great build WD, looks awesome.

I've been keeping an eye on the 6" builds and hope to be able to start on mine sometime later in the year. Some bits n pieces already done, thanks to Royboy for helping out :handgestures-thumbupleft: ....but I digress...

I had a question about your RC...maybe a stupid question but something i was thinking about.....
With the internal cooling lines running through the blockhead void, I was wondering...when you reduce water flow to allow vapour past the RC ....wont that vapour then heat up the internal cooling lines, increasing the temp of the cooling water, effectively reducing cooling/reflux even further....creating a sort of chain reaction??? allowing even more vapour to pass?

My thoughts were that it might be a bit fiddly to get an even take-off. Or am I completely missing something? or will the change in temp be so minor it wont matter? Just curious

Cheers,
Crispy

I have no idea mate, this is all new to me. This isn't a new design though so I'm working on the theory that it’s been done before so it should work. I imagine the water coming in will heat up but it is a pretty big rc and i recon it will handle it, if not I'll try insulating it with threadtape or something. I may just have to use a higher water flow rate to compensate but that's ok because i have a good source of recirculation water.

I don't think it'll make any difference, the RC will equilibrate. It may take a fraction longer to equilibrate than if the cooling lines entered and exited at the RC but every still is different anyway.

Crispy wrote:Great build WD, looks awesome.

I've been keeping an eye on the 6" builds and hope to be able to start on mine sometime later in the year. Some bits n pieces already done, thanks to Royboy for helping out :handgestures-thumbupleft: ....but I digress...

I had a question about your RC...maybe a stupid question but something i was thinking about.....
With the internal cooling lines running through the blockhead void, I was wondering...when you reduce water flow to allow vapour past the RC ....wont that vapour then heat up the internal cooling lines, increasing the temp of the cooling water, effectively reducing cooling/reflux even further....creating a sort of chain reaction??? allowing even more vapour to pass?

My thoughts were that it might be a bit fiddly to get an even take-off. Or am I completely missing something? or will the change in temp be so minor it wont matter? Just curious

Cheers,
Crispy

Its as db said:

db1979 wrote:I don't think it'll make any difference, the RC will equilibrate. It may take a fraction longer to equilibrate than if the cooling lines entered and exited at the RC but every still is different anyway.

Every change you make on your RC will take a few moments to show at the parrot. SO if you make a change and then give it a minute to equilibrate, rather than keep changining it because you see no instant changes (like my first run :oops: ), it will come around.... besides, the more you run your rig, the more you understand how it/she/he runs ...

Eh WD,
That 6-4 reducer looks a treat and if I knew you needed one I do have that 5 Star 6-4" reducer you could have a loan of until your new boiler was done. O'well the offer still stands if that one you made leaks :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling:

Thanks Bryan that's a real nice offer but I recon this one will do the trick :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Keep it all copper woody, you’re the copper king, not that there’s anything wrong with stainless or FSD parts :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Well I got all my plumbing sorted and tryed a vinegar run tonight and well it was a sieve :angry-banghead: Bloody sight glasses :teasing-nutkick: I got them sorted but I'm having trouble sealing the 6". The clamps are real thick and with the ribs still on the seal and the two easy flanges the clamp still won't take up. I've made another easy flange ring that I'll try putting behind the cone flange to try take up the slack. The still is too bloody hot now and I'll need a mate or a crane to lift this rig off, it's that bloody heavy :laughing-rolling: anyone else had problems with the 6" clamps?

With a standard ezi flange i would have thought the rib on the seal would have to be removed :think:

6" ferrules have a different standard shape, the edge of a 2"-4" is 2.8mm-ish where the 6"-12" have a 5.5mm-ish edge thickness.
This would be your issue.
You could cut strips of copper and shim the back of the flange.

6" will have 13mm-ish minimum clamping thickness,
2"-4" will have 8mm-ish minimum clamping thickness.

Thanks scythe, that confirms it for me :handgestures-thumbupleft: I've made ring to put behind one of the flanges to take up the slack. I think I'll cut the ribs off the seal too as I think it just rolls around when pressure is applied and makes it leak, it just means I may have to pack the flanges a bit more.

I will hopefully get back to it tonight :handgestures-thumbupleft:

How ya going going those leaks woody? :handgestures-thumbupleft: i think mine is all good to go, had few leaks also.