Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

If your whole column is copper. Copper plates bubble caps etc having stainless ferrules is gunna make no difference zip zero nada... No difference :wtf: :D

I like Macs copper tees ,the benefit of copper were ya need it and the strength of stainless ferrules were ya need it,I have dropped my stainless ones once or twice and never had any damage but full copper ones will allways carry that extra risk factor,with a bit more care in handling required.cheers hillzabilly ;-)

Sam. wrote:

Stonemaker1 wrote:

Sam. wrote:

Stonemaker1 wrote:

bluc wrote:Most use 3" but I am considering 2" sight glasses also.. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

As an added bonus you also get more copper surface area plus there cheaper, win win :handgestures-thumbupleft:

What would be the benefit of that that little more surface area? :think:

Guess I just love copper and thought the more you use the better off you are but that's just my opinion. :handgestures-thumbupleft:
I'm guessing your a stainless man.....

I don't have a preference either way but I have tested it for myself to see how much copper it actually does take to remove sulphides ;-)

Are you referring to a stainless column or copper column :think:
Are you saying it takes a certain amount of copper and if you use more than your required amount it will make absolutely no difference to the finish product? Just curious because I never knew there was a required amount, I know it's advised to at least have some copper in the vapour path....

Any still. As an example copper plates in a stainless bubbler is enough copper to provide all the benefit the copper is gunna provide..which is sulphite removal.

bluc wrote:Any still. As an example copper plates in a stainless bubbler is enough copper to provide all the benefit the copper is gunna provide..which is sulphite removal.

:text-+1:

Yep as said, takes fuck all copper in the path on a stainless column, an all copper obviously has more than enough.

No downside to having stainless when there is copper there also :-B

As added surety sometimes a 100-150mm section packed with copper mesh is used. But have been told its not needed and just the plates is ample..

Nathan sorry for the hijack and continue on :text-thankyoublue:

Hi guys im about to go ahead and cut my 2" copper for sight tees. What lengthbis reguired, will solder easy flange on for my tri clamp. Cheers!

Long enough to allow the clamp the fit.
Also allow enough so that you can profile the pipe to the larger diameter.

Shorter the better mate, you only need enough room behind the flange to fit half a triclamp.

Righto fellas, where off..

Bit of work this afternoon..cut the modules and picked up some reducers!

Nathan02 wrote:Righto fellas, where off..

Bit of work this afternoon..cut the modules and picked up some reducers!

God bless photobuckets little cotton socks. :))

afternoon guys, just wondering if someone could guide me to a template for perf plate hole spacing? or is it a work it out your self kinda deal cheers

Most people just stick a bit of 5mm graph paper over the plate and drill where the lines intersect.
I think 1.5mm is the drill size.
Have a look in the perf. Plate column builds.

:text-+1:

Although I went and ruled up the grid on mine with a pencil, grid paper is a better idea though.

Well some progress today. Given that I am going to be predominantly making rum I have decided on 3 modular sections with perf plates which I've made up. 1.6mm hole over a 5mm grid. The bottom plate being a J cup style, my other two downcomers will have a 1" cap but I havent soldered them in yet as I need to get to Reece. I will probably make up a 4th plate for whiskey down the track.

Nice looking perf plate mate, I did very similar with my build and I drilled a 1mm hole at the lower point of the J bend so the product can drain out after the run. Otherwise product will stay in the J bend after the run and if the still isn't used for a while it can come a tad manky :angry-banghead:

Cheers Bryan

Great advice Bryan thankyou. I'd thought of it on my 1" cups but completely overlooked the J cup.

Also woodduck I took your experienced advice and used soft solder with mapp gas. Bloody good!

Cheers

Nathan02 wrote:
Also woodduck I took your experienced advice and used soft solder with mapp gas. Bloody good!

Cheers

Good to hear mate, glad it worked for ya. I love the stuff :handgestures-thumbupleft: