Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Wow !!! Nice build mate !!

I love the copper boiler :handgestures-thumbupleft:

This is amazing!

The solid lines are something I've always wanted to do and now I have seen yours you've ignited something inside for me to get started!

The RC, all I can say is wow! Can't wait for your next posts!

The Product Condenser...

- 2"
- 600mm long
- 12 x ⅜" tubes
- ¼" inlet needle valve

Pretty straight forward simple design compared to the RC.


It's pretty packed in, the tubes are deformed to encourage turbulence of both hot vapour and cooling water.



It was seemingly impossible to line up all 12 tubes and fit the 2nd plate, until I found that the humble ol HB is a neat fit in the ⅜" (lucky there is a good supply in Wifey's art cupboard).
Still tricky but no longer impossible.




Was going to make a copper cone for the take off, but managed to find some bits while scrounging in the graveyard and scrap bin at work. Had to do a bit of machining on our 4 million year old lathe and seeing as though I didn't trust myself enough with the TIG at the time, I decided to silver solder them up with 45%.




12 x ⅜" tubes have an internal cross sectional area equivalent to roughly 6 x ½" tubes (not taking the deformations into account) and have 50% more surface area.
So I shouldn't be surprised that this thing seems to be super efficient and has more capacity than I can throw at it with my current set up.

Probably overkill... but it was fun :handgestures-thumbupleft:

:D

Mr Tinker wrote:12 x ⅜" tubes have an internal cross sectional area equivalent to roughly 6 x ½" tubes (not taking the deformations into account) and have 50% more surface area.
So I shouldn't be surprised that this thing seems to be super efficient and has more capacity than I can throw at it with my current set up.

Probably overkill... but it was fun :handgestures-thumbupleft:

You've just been smart and planned ahead for a possible 6" still upgrade. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Hi All

Not sure how many of you use a circular saw for cutting copper, so i thought I'd share what I use...



It's a 120 tooth tungsten tip saw blade, specifically for non-ferrous metals. I got mine at Peacock Saws in Brisbane, and I've seen them at Trade tools also. Not at Bunnings though, I think they have an 80 tooth Irwin one which might work, but i'm not sure I'd like to try it.
You can get them for $70 or $80, probably a lot cheaper online, I've been using mine for a fair while, but I reckon it has paid for itself on this build alone.

I used mine in the mitre saw in the picture for pipe and smaller plate sizes i.e. bubble plates and condenser end plates.
I also used it in my table saw (with help!) for cutting larger sheet for the boiler sides.

You can't beat it for cutting pipe, perfect square (or angled) cuts with no burrs, in literally seconds.
Use caution though, it can get angry :angry-teeth:

Thanks, for all the positive comments.

Cheers,

Hey Nuddy

nuddy wrote:

Mr Tinker wrote:12 x ⅜" tubes have an internal cross sectional area equivalent to roughly 6 x ½" tubes (not taking the deformations into account) and have 50% more surface area.
So I shouldn't be surprised that this thing seems to be super efficient and has more capacity than I can throw at it with my current set up.

Probably overkill... but it was fun :handgestures-thumbupleft:

You've just been smart and planned ahead for a possible 6" still upgrade. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

I suppose it's not too early to be thinking about a 6" upgrade, is it?

Milky wrote:This is amazing!

The solid lines are something I've always wanted to do and now I have seen yours you've ignited something inside for me to get started!

The RC, all I can say is wow! Can't wait for your next posts!

Thanks Milky

Your rig would look awesome with some shiny copper plumbing, get on it, you won't be disapointed :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Very interesting. Do you find an advantage soldering the cooling tube plate to the outside of the PC pipe. I also noticed reading back through the thread you have done the same with the RC. This is a method I have not seen in other builds, all the ones I have read so far, people solder the cooling pipe plate to the inside of the pipe. Would love to hear your theory with the method you built.

I built both my bubblers with the bottom plates of the RC and PC soldered to the outside of the pipe instead of the inside. I did it because I felt it was easier. My top plate on both builds of both the RC and PC are internally soldered. Mr tinker's done a much neater job of his though 8-}

Obviously a lot of thought has gone into this still. Well done Mr Tinker. Your condensors are inspirational. Whack a flow guage in front of that RC and you'll be in reflux heaven.

The Bubble Plates...

- 4 x 5 cap plates
- 1" caps
- ⅝" risers
- ¾"- ⅝" downcomers
- 10 x 3.5mm2 slots

The 'T' Sections...

- 4"
- 140mm high
- 2" borosilicate sight-glasses (FSD)
- 2 ⅛" x 12mm sight-glass branches

After much thought and reading I decided to go with a multi cap set up.



They turned out to be a LOT of work, but I'm really happy with the results.
Stainless steel washers make perfect ready made ends and are nice and cheap compared to copper end caps.




The tube, riser holes and caps slots are sized such that the cross sectional area remains fairly similar throughout the cap.
I figured this would keep the vapour flowing freely and evenly.
I used the saw blade mentioned above to cut all the pieces including the angled downcomer spouts.
The bubble cap slots were also cut with the same blade in the table saw, using a timber jig (and some trial and error).
The downcomers are ¾" above the plate and drop down to ⅝" below.




All plates are set out with the downcomer in the center and the downcomer spout directing reflux to the edge.
The plates extend to the edge of the 'T' section flange and are sealed with a silicon gasket above and below.
The sight-glass branches are nice and short, which along with being slightly larger (2 ⅛") allow a perfect view of the plates in action. I think they look well balanced on the column also.




Here you can see the downcomer spout through the sight glass. I find this interesting as you can see the total flow of reflux from the plate above.
The flanges were formed with a tool I made from some 5mm flat bar with two slots cut in the end (one for 4" one for 2 ⅛"), a panel beating hammer and a small anvil.
I annealed the ends before forming and went around with the tool 6 or 8 times to get to 90 degrees. Then hammered flat and finished with wet and dry paper on the milled surface of my table saw.
I also slipped the 2 ⅛" over some 2" while forming the flanges to stop it from deforming.




I haven't bothered with a drain hole on the plate, I flush the column through the top of the blockhead with water after each run and the tiny gap between the risers and plate allows the plate to slowly drain.

I'm very happy with this design, there is plenty of action on the plates even when running low heat and no flooding at all when running flat out.

Thanks, Bushy

It's a top idea using flowmeters, it would take all the guess work out of it. Might just have to look into that.

Cheers, Mr Tinker

A&O wrote:Very interesting. Do you find an advantage soldering the cooling tube plate to the outside of the PC pipe. I also noticed reading back through the thread you have done the same with the RC. This is a method I have not seen in other builds, all the ones I have read so far, people solder the cooling pipe plate to the inside of the pipe. Would love to hear your theory with the method you built.

Hey A&O,

Because I had heavy duty 2mm copper plate to use, it just made sense to me to make the end plate and flange in one; stronger flange and less work. I think a lot of guys are using flattened pipe for end plates which is generally thinner material.

Cheers, Mr Tinker

Love that downcomer design, never seen anything quite so well planned and put together. You are a genuine craftsman sir!

ThePaterPiper wrote:Love that downcomer design, never seen anything quite so well planned and put together. You are a genuine craftsman sir!

:text-+1:

A&O wrote:Very interesting. Do you find an advantage soldering the cooling tube plate to the outside of the PC pipe. I also noticed reading back through the thread you have done the same with the RC. This is a method I have not seen in other builds, all the ones I have read so far, people solder the cooling pipe plate to the inside of the pipe. Would love to hear your theory with the method you built.

Outside is easier - you're not ginning around with the torch and pipes to get the most efficient use of your flame IMHO...

AWESOME SAUCE MATE, nothing more to say......... ^:)^

Great build Mr T,
:text-+1:
I have picked up a lot of good ideas from this thread, thx.

Cheers,
Crispy

Delicious.

I love the 2" SG's, IMO they look better than 3" or 4" on a 4" column.

Thanks for the comments guys, and glad to hear the thread has been of some assistance.

Zak Griffin wrote:Delicious.

I love the 2" SG's, IMO they look better than 3" or 4" on a 4" column.

Yeah Zac, I agree, 2” SG’s do look better on 4”, they’re more balanced I think, and they still provide plenty of viewing area.
They are also; cheaper (glass & clamps), easier to seal and less prone to breakage.
Better all round I spose.