Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

db1979 wrote:You'd need another module above the RC that has a side port that can be opened.

Side port. Shouldn't be a problem with pressure from that. Especially if the RC is in full reflux.

Would be all good as long as doesnt block path to pc :handgestures-thumbupleft:

That was my intention.

I first read the 2nd page of this thread amd then had to go back through but my first thought was to make something copper like that glass thing.
2" ferrule off the boiler, spool piece to get a bit of height, 2" valve, then a 2"-4" reducer, short section of 4" then either a 4"end cap or another reducer back down to 2".
I did not consider the need for the "breather" tho so a length that runs from the 2" spool to the top of the 4" section will cover that.
Using 4" to give you volume but may not really be required because really it only needs to hold 500ml max.

[Edit] need 200mm of 2" to hold volume of 360ml
/edit

But adding it above the RC aounds like an even better idea, especially if you have a blockhead that you can put a gin basket in.

I don’t like this idea of adding a jar back in for two reasons,
If you’re adding above the rc you’d have to put her back into full reflux before opening the blockhead, losing time and changing your run strategy. It’s not like if you add the jar it’s the next jar to come off.
Plus safety, potential for spilling 94% alcohol on a boiler.

Should have explained but off topic on the run strategy.
My plan.
Use 4" fill port while column is in use.
4" to 2" reducer.
2" valve.
2" to 3" reducer.
500 mm 3" spool.
3" cap.
In that order.

Close 2" valve. Put whatever you want in the 3" spool and put cap on to seal the end.
Open 2" valve allowing liquid to drain into the boiler.
Close valve and take cap off so there's no surprises as the chamber cools.

Two valves instead of a cap would be better but much pricier. These are bits and bobs I've scrounged most of already. Just need a valve and an end cap. Will sort out after the big move.
I figure once its rigged up it can be the permanent fill port lid for every run.

That could work.

You think the vlv would seal against the boiling pressure of the boiler?

Theres not that much pressure. 2" drain valves seal ok so don't see why not.

How much pressure fo you think it has to hold back?
There should be no more than a few psi difference between boiler and atmospheric pressure.
As for temp its less than 100°c

No, I agree. It's the only negative I could come up with at the time - I use electric elements so I don't have the flammable ignition source that could be an issue...

Realising that the boiler is an open system, too, means that the pressure wouldn't be a danger other ... guess, playing Devils Advocate more so than torpedoing the idea!

Thats the way a lot of the steam engines were oiled 2 valves and an onion in between funnel on top i may have a photo somewere

Heres a brass one sitting on this pump