Mod's Build Log

Perforated & bubble cap plated columns

Re: Mod's Build Log

Postby emptyglass » Thu Mar 15, 2012 1:58 pm

Modernity wrote:the wife says i should be working and not f***ing around with my toys.


You get that too. Glad I'm not alone.

On the heating, is there a way to use the heat from the condensate for feedwater to the heat boiler (espreeso m/c)?
I'm not sure if they are a sealed tank or have a feed pump. Sorry for my espresso machine ignorance, I buy espresso coffee, never made it. Commercial boilers usually harness the condensate energy by using it as feedwater (with treatments)

Pretty trick build mate. Very impressive.
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Re: Mod's Build Log

Postby Modernity » Sat Mar 17, 2012 7:56 am

Maheel & WineGlass,

I don't believe there will be high volumes of water (cooled steam) exiting the heating coil so I have not planned to recycle it. Due to the temp of the water I didn't want to feed it back into the espresso boiler because of the feed pump. If later I decide to recycle i may include cooling the water then it will become part of the cooling system.

Espresso boilers are pretty good little setups. They are pressurestat regulated with a internal float valve to maintain water levels. The good thing for US is they are loaded to lime scale after 5-10 years and the whole machine is replaced. SO they can be found fairly cheap "not working". This statement most often refers to the pricy PID's they use.
This is how it works:
Middle of the busy morn shift the machine stops working, :handgestures-thumbdown:
the cafe owner urgently calls up the espresso tech guy, :violin:
he arrives and fault finds the PID as the problem, :handgestures-thumbupleft:
Tech guy hands the cafe owner a $600 quote, :violence-stickwhack:
Cafe owner turns white and tech guy tells him to call coffee bean supplier,
the cafe owner calls the coffee bean supplier and cries poor, :crying-blue:
Coffee bean supplier turns up with nice new espresso machine and a slightly inflated coffee bean whole price on a 3 year contract and everybody is a winner (baby) :teasing-neener:

The other bonus is the crappiest looking espresso machine still comes loaded with nice boiler, copper fittings, needle valves, pressure gauges, pump, etc.
Modernity
 
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equipment: I am currently refurbishing a 150 ltr mush tun.
Currently building a 150 ltr oil heated pot still, with 8" copper column.

Re: Mod's Build Log

Postby Modernity » Sun Mar 18, 2012 5:36 pm

I have got a bit of work done on the down comers today. I abandoned the crimped pipe idea and have gone for the organ pipe look. The outlets are yet to be cut. Basically they are going to be a 5mm slot cut a whole half width into the pipe directly below the stopped disc soldered into the pipe at the expanded joint.

The outlets are a whole half width with a trap weir to stop blow back.
Image
Image
Image
Modernity
 
Posts: 183
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equipment: I am currently refurbishing a 150 ltr mush tun.
Currently building a 150 ltr oil heated pot still, with 8" copper column.

Re: Mod's Build Log

Postby Modernity » Sun Mar 18, 2012 5:55 pm

Waste pipe on the boiler went under the torch today too. 550mm/500mm copper tub took some serious heat. I set the whole gig up sitting with a japanese table cooker under the boiler to get a bit of extra heat into it:Image

The MAPP just got there in the end
Image
Image
This all would have work a lot better if I had a woollen (glass) blanket (pink batts) to stuff in and around to reduce the heat loses.
Outside after cleaning
Image

Inside after soaking for 30 minutes
Image
Modernity
 
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equipment: I am currently refurbishing a 150 ltr mush tun.
Currently building a 150 ltr oil heated pot still, with 8" copper column.

Re: Mod's Build Log

Postby stubbydrainer » Sun Mar 18, 2012 6:17 pm

that's a good job Mod :handgestures-thumbupleft:
Those downcomers look heaps better too mate , good work
I'm keen to see this rig fired up , its all very interesting

cheers
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Re: Mod's Build Log

Postby Modernity » Sun Mar 18, 2012 6:25 pm

Thanks Stubs. A thumbs up is always good.

McStill smoked me out on the design inspiration today. So here is the concept drawing I ripped off :laughing-rolling: with unlimited faithfulness :teasing-neener:
ImageImage
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equipment: I am currently refurbishing a 150 ltr mush tun.
Currently building a 150 ltr oil heated pot still, with 8" copper column.

Re: Mod's Build Log

Postby MacStill » Sun Mar 18, 2012 6:48 pm

Modernity wrote:Thanks Stubs. A thumbs up is always good.

McStill smoked me out on the design inspiration today. So here is the concept drawing I ripped off :laughing-rolling: with unlimited faithfulness :teasing-neener:


Make that 2 thumbs up from me :handgestures-thumbupleft: :handgestures-thumbupleft:

I doubt there's a still out there that isnt a copy of someone elses in one way or another ;-)
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Re: Mod's Build Log

Postby emptyglass » Sun Mar 18, 2012 10:56 pm

Firstly, :handgestures-thumbupleft: I have not stopped looking at espresso machines since you posted. I think I was the bloke waiting for a coffee when your scenario happened.

Mod, I think I have seen the original design before, but not with the details of the box under the parrot.
Is it a bond box, or is it just a fores/heads/tails tank?
emptyglass
 

Re: Mod's Build Log

Postby Modernity » Mon Mar 19, 2012 10:56 am

I main issue i am having with the copying of this commercial design is my lack of headroom in my converted garage.
The column drain height will be a chink in my schematic that I am thinking will need a trick out the box of "unusual" solutions to get around.
The steam heating will help me get the whole unit as close to ground level as possible.
I could shorten the column and that would raise the bottom up. I am keen to get as many plates in the bugger as possible (after all I am after gin here out of this part of the deal).
So 9 plates is my target (reason for wanting 9 plates is unknown, and will I get a good gin in two runs? I haven't done the math)
9 Plate spacings x 150mm = 1350mm
Short Reflux Con say 250mm
Headroom above Reflux Con 50mm
Sump under bottom plate 50mm
All up 1700mm
I have 2400mm headroom in the garage.
I would say that I have to get the water level in the boiler under 700mm off ground level for the drain from the column to run the right way. Or I pump the drain up hill to the boiler (a bad idea, that flies in the face of my (most) favourite principle "Keep It Simple Simon")
The water level in the boiler is going to 500mm tank level) outside bottom to 4" arm-way (midget man way) port.
So 200mm between ground level and tank. Need to fit the boiler insulation, chassis frame and legs. Tight! and it will mean getting it out of the door to move it will need a lot of effort.
Modernity
 
Posts: 183
Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2011 2:34 pm
Location: Southern Highlands, NSW
equipment: I am currently refurbishing a 150 ltr mush tun.
Currently building a 150 ltr oil heated pot still, with 8" copper column.

Re: Mod's Build Log

Postby olddog » Mon Mar 19, 2012 1:36 pm

There is no rule saying that you have to fit the column on top of the boiler. You could sit the column to the side of the boiler, and put a feed tube from the top of the boiler to the base of the column, just like your plans. :-D


OD
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Re: Mod's Build Log

Postby Modernity » Mon Mar 19, 2012 3:36 pm

OD,
my height issue is based on the column sitting along side. :angry-banghead: :angry-banghead: as per my drawing.
Modernity
 
Posts: 183
Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2011 2:34 pm
Location: Southern Highlands, NSW
equipment: I am currently refurbishing a 150 ltr mush tun.
Currently building a 150 ltr oil heated pot still, with 8" copper column.

Re: Mod's Build Log

Postby MacStill » Mon Mar 19, 2012 3:44 pm

You could save a lot of room here

9 Plate spacings x 150mm = 1350mm
Short Reflux Con say 250mm


My last reflux condenser was only 65mm long and could still get 100% reflux

Most I know of only space their plates 100mm, all my bubblers included.

So say you went 100mm spacings and a 100mm condenser, that's a lot of height or extra plates you could add.
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Re: Mod's Build Log

Postby Modernity » Mon Mar 19, 2012 4:04 pm

That's what I wanted to hear! :handgestures-thumbupleft: :handgestures-thumbupleft: :handgestures-thumbupleft: :handgestures-thumbupleft: :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Next question: What is the theory on 9 plates? :think: :think: I am doing it because I want 3 sets of three plate trees. Easy to build and easy to instal and remove (i think)


First run straight from pot to condenser =
Second run via the column =

Help me on my theory here :think: :think:
Modernity
 
Posts: 183
Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2011 2:34 pm
Location: Southern Highlands, NSW
equipment: I am currently refurbishing a 150 ltr mush tun.
Currently building a 150 ltr oil heated pot still, with 8" copper column.

Re: Mod's Build Log

Postby MacStill » Mon Mar 19, 2012 4:13 pm

Help me on my theory here


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Theoretical_plate :handgestures-thumbupleft:
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Re: Mod's Build Log

Postby Modernity » Mon Mar 19, 2012 4:17 pm

That reply has achieved something my wife has not been able to do for a while:

"STOP PLAYING WITH THAT THING AND GET BACK TO WORK" :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling:
Modernity
 
Posts: 183
Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2011 2:34 pm
Location: Southern Highlands, NSW
equipment: I am currently refurbishing a 150 ltr mush tun.
Currently building a 150 ltr oil heated pot still, with 8" copper column.

Re: Mod's Build Log

Postby Modernity » Mon Mar 19, 2012 4:49 pm

So going back to work only last 10 minutes.

Question? what is the going rate on the "E= the plate efficiency" part of the equation at our 4" end of the scale.

10 bubble caps
24 holes per cap
2mm holes

area of a hole = 3.14mm2
area on the plate = 753mm2
area of the plate = (7238mm2 gross) 6748mm2 (less downcomer)
Modernity
 
Posts: 183
Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2011 2:34 pm
Location: Southern Highlands, NSW
equipment: I am currently refurbishing a 150 ltr mush tun.
Currently building a 150 ltr oil heated pot still, with 8" copper column.

Re: Mod's Build Log

Postby MacStill » Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:15 pm

E = FIIK :teasing-tease:

I guess it all depends on heat input v's reflux ratio... not something I've delved into really, but google will hold all the info you want ;-)

If neutral is going to be what you want I'd look at a modular column section of 3" full of packing like I have done, or do multiple runs with only 9 plates.... pretty sure from everything I read you'll need at least 10 and possibly 12 plates to make a decent vodka in a single run.
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Re: Mod's Build Log

Postby Modernity » Mon Mar 19, 2012 8:32 pm

Cheers McStill,
E=FIIK Wednesday's 2 hour train into the city won't be boring :laughing-rolling:
You are generous to a "T". Not only do you solve my height issue, in the same day you then offer (when asked) that I properly need more plates. :laughing-rolling:
But hell it's only another three plates :angry-banghead:

Or maybe 9 plates plus a packed 300mm section, :think:
Modernity
 
Posts: 183
Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2011 2:34 pm
Location: Southern Highlands, NSW
equipment: I am currently refurbishing a 150 ltr mush tun.
Currently building a 150 ltr oil heated pot still, with 8" copper column.

Re: Mod's Build Log

Postby MacStill » Mon Mar 19, 2012 9:18 pm

I was thinking bout 3 plates and a 900mm section of packed column, you could then have your packed column as a separate piece that you add or remove from the 3 plates on your boiler.

It's been a long time since I bothered with vodkas, I generally only run 4 or 5 plated rigs for rum & UJSM....... so anything more advanced than that I should probably refrain from commenting on ;-)

Cheers.
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Re: Mod's Build Log

Postby Modernity » Tue Mar 20, 2012 1:45 pm

McStill wrote:I was thinking bout 3 plates and a 900mm section of packed column, you could then have your packed column as a separate piece that you add or remove from the 3 plates on your boiler.


One of the reasons I like the 3 Plate tree idea is that I will (i hope) be able to load and unload the sets one at a time from the bottom of the column (via the removable end cap). This would let me load a packed section (in a cartridge) in first and the then follow it up with plated sections in sets of three.

This all hinges on keeping the column round when i solder the sight glasses on. :think: :think: This need to keep the round and true means I plan to soft solder all of the remanding joins where ever I can.
Modernity
 
Posts: 183
Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2011 2:34 pm
Location: Southern Highlands, NSW
equipment: I am currently refurbishing a 150 ltr mush tun.
Currently building a 150 ltr oil heated pot still, with 8" copper column.

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