Russ's bubbler

[db1979]

The reason I like it so much is the sheer amount of copper, as a boiler stainless would be much better as it has a relatively low thermal coefficient, this much copper will just soak up any power thrown at it and dissipate it to the air very efficiently, not the best for a boiler, it will just look awesome doing it!!!

Insulate it and it won't matter. Only thing is that no one will know it's a copper boiler...not that it really matters anyway.

[Russ]

Yeah I figured insulate 3/4 of it and leave the top exposed, gotta love that shiny copper.

I have a feeling it will sit in the shed for a good while anyway, I can make more than enough good stuff with the working 4" setup I have now.

[Scubadriver]

Bit more done today, cut the blockhead section to length, decided on 240mm long, made up and hammered on the EZ flanges for the RC and blockhead ready to solder on once I get some more gas.

I have been watching as many videos of easy flange build as i can find and they all start the initial flange/lip bent over first on the pipe and then you push the hard soldered ring on from the other side, hammer to shape, then soft solder it on. I have seen a few pictures now that look like they didnt have the initial flange/lip bent over, like yours. Did you just push the ring over, then solder in place and then hammer to shape? Is there any videos showing this method?

Thanks

[Chocko6969]

Bit more done today, cut the blockhead section to length, decided on 240mm long, made up and hammered on the EZ flanges for the RC and blockhead ready to solder on once I get some more gas.

I have been watching as many videos of easy flange build as i can find and they all start the initial flange/lip bent over first on the pipe and then you push the hard soldered ring on from the other side, hammer to shape, then soft solder it on. I have seen a few pictures now that look like they didnt have the initial flange/lip bent over, like yours. Did you just push the ring over, then solder in place and then hammer to shape? Is there any videos showing this method?

Thanks

I did my entire build with easy flange rings on straight pipe, no hammering of the pipe whatsoever only the ring. It's surprising how strong it is and saves a lot of work. Just make sure you get enough heat into the pipe to flow solder down and fill it up completely. I have a cheap linisher which does a magnificent job and helps with sealing.

viewtopic.php?f=36&t=12335

Cheers.

Chocko

[db1979]

Bit more done today, cut the blockhead section to length, decided on 240mm long, made up and hammered on the EZ flanges for the RC and blockhead ready to solder on once I get some more gas.

I have been watching as many videos of easy flange build as i can find and they all start the initial flange/lip bent over first on the pipe and then you push the hard soldered ring on from the other side, hammer to shape, then soft solder it on. I have seen a few pictures now that look like they didnt have the initial flange/lip bent over, like yours. Did you just push the ring over, then solder in place and then hammer to shape? Is there any videos showing this method?

Thanks

Have a read through the how to easy flange thread in the tips from the workbench section. There's more than one way to skin the cat.

[woodduck]

Yep I easy easy flange quite often (only the ring no bent lip) they are still quite strong. I have a video somewhere on here showing me wave a keg around on one of these joints.

[woodduck]

Here's a link

https://youtu.be/pP-xFCTz8e8

I wasn't going too hard on it but I did do about 5 takes trying to get the vid right :laughing-rolling:

[Russ]

Everybody has beaten me to it but yes you are correct, I didn't make a lip on the pipe, just flattened the ring onto the end. I read Mac said he doesn't bother anymore and I figured he has way more experience than I do so I didn't either.

One thing I did (sorry no video) is use the endgrain of a piece of 3by2 hardwood to flatten the ring. I also held it at a slight angle so as to hammer a taper to make it resemble a "proper" ferrule. I worked around the pipe, probably 2-3 times, small hits rather than trying to get it in one go, I found the result was smoother. After a bit of use the timber edges started rounding, so I just docked it in a dropsaw to square it up again, if that makes sense.

If you get the ring diameter right it holds onto the pipe very tightly, making soldering easier, I used silver solder for strength but after checking out Woodducks video it seems soft solder will also do the trick quite nicely.