Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

So I’ve been steered away from the 4” boka and have started building my 4” perforated glasser with modular 500mm packed section/RC/PC/parrot

If anyone has any information that would be greatly appreciated

200mm long RC in progress

Welded out

500mm long packed section complete

RC nice and shiny
Appears to be airtight

PC done, copper to stainless.
That was hard to get a good looking weld.

Flange that sits above the top plate and below the RC

Like so....
not welded yet
Not looking forward to that haha.

Perforated plate with 1/16 holes at 5mm centres and 2mm notches inbetween bottom of downcomer and cap

Cap is offset to downcomer

Did I mention I hate soldering, must be doing something incorrectly.
Using 56t solder

Parrot
Yet to weld on the cup and parrot beak

The actual assembly

Now for some questions :handgestures-thumbupleft:

What’s better for the packed section
1kg of copper mesh or 6mm ceramic balls.

My alcometer only has 2mm a side in the parrot, will this be enough?

Will a 1/16 drain hole in the downcomer cap be too big?

Thanks in advance
Locky

A 500g roll of copper mesh fits perfectly in the 4” tube.
I would normally recommend at least 1 roll top and bottom and fill the rest with stainless scrubbers or scoria.
As for the alcometer, as long as it’s floating free it’s going to be ok.

For parrot most use 1" pipe for body. You can get surging issues which makes alcometer Bob up and down with smaller pipe.. :-B

With ya coolant inlets and outlets ,I like 1/2bsp weld on fittings,will give more flexibility down the road .cheers hillzabilly :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Yeah, I didn’t want to go that big to avoid smearing, I guess time will tell and I can always take manual measurements the first time.

In regards to the 1/2 bsp fittings, I may just do that down the road, cheers hillzabilly.

The plates are drilled to 1.58mm and I’ve heard of people counter drilling the under side bigger.
Is this necessary? That’s a lot of holes :laughing-rolling:

Hoping to finish off the parrot and weld the flange to the top plate tonight
Do the downcomer lengths look alright about 20mm up top I think.

20 mm downcomer height is good, I've got 25 mm. There was discussion about different depths years back and I can't remember what the general info was about abv and flavour but just go with 20 mm.

Smashing it out.
I think you are going to regret that 200mm long RC.
Looks like there is a lot of volume around those vapour tubes, going to take a while to respond to changes.
Looks good but.

Test the parrot with water trickeling through it, if water pushes it around then alcohol will as well.
Just have the parrot body long enough to hit 98% and it will be deep enough.
Add a bottom drain so you can empty rhe parrot between cuts and you wont get smearing.

Without searching I believe that a deeper bath depth lead to less flavour... maybe...

I will convert the parrot to 20mm ID to prevent surging
*forgot to mention there is a 1/4 BSPT socket welded on the bottom for the ball valve.

RC was made 200mm long as that is what FSD is going to apparently.
Warm water up here, so hoping it will be sweet.
I may be able to increase the wattage a bit to compensate for responsiveness ... I don’t mind waiting a bit for change.
2400w adjustable at the moment :handgestures-thumbupleft:
Thinking the glasser should be a good combo at that wattage

As per BT1 experience :

With the reducer after the shotgun on the parrot ,do you have a vent hole or tube or two ?.Above the level of were the alcometer goes is best,nice welding skills BTW.cheers hillzabilly ;-)