Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Dunnonuthin wrote:Ok, not so simple. This little tome has what we need re pipe sizes. Go to PDF page 7.

https://www.kembla.com/assets/Uploads/g ... dition.pdf

But here’s the kicker “ It is noted that copper tubes are made from the one alloy and are of similar quality. The word “TYPES” refers to the 4 thickness categories with Type “A” being the thickest and Type “D” being the thinnest tube permitted for use by water authorities.”
So unless someone can tell us what the most common Type is likely to be encountered, just go with Type A sizes?

Thanks for the rabbit hole :handgestures-thumbupleft: that was a good read

It's a crapshoot at the scrappy as far as thickness goes, generally the thickest is what you will find in my experience - I would work off the thickest as a worse case scenario

Also my point about the 3 inch sg's was that 4 is stuff all dearer... so 2 or 4

I see what you are saying RC but I think we’ll continue with the 3”. Your comment about the wall thickness is interesting as that may also alter the way that flanges are made. Thanks for that insight as that now solves a question that I was asking myself. Forming the traditional easy flange may not be possible as the material being bent over the anvil could end up being too thick by the time the flange is fully constructed. Therefore the simpler flange which uses only the squashed 1/4” tube will be used. I think they will still be exceptionally strong (even if soft soldered) to perform the required task. Obviously if people use the thinner walled 4” copper and still want the traditional easy flange, they would just have to increase the length of the 4” tube by about 12mm.

Here’s a couple of views of the bubbler module. The easy flanges are in place, the hole is cut and the profile of the 3” is also cut. What I want you guys to decide is:

1) the overall height of the module and
2) the offset of the sight glass window (the distance from the back of the easy flange to the 4” column)

I have drawn the module using the distances I believe would work but if you can give me your thoughts and reasoning, I’ll pop up a very simple orthogonal with the two dimensions added.

For Module height I’d say maximum of 150mm. I’m sure you could get away with a fraction less. I used 135mm between plates.
From face of column to face of sight glass flange I used 30mm. Again, it could be closer.
Just be aware I didn’t build my plater in modular format, and didn’t use easy flanges with triclamps on the sight glasses.

Pretty close to what I had. In the drawing of the module, height was 140mm and the offset from the back of the sight glass easy flange was 25mm. If there is a problem with those distances, let me know. Tomorrow evening I’ll start work on a blockhead tee. Any thoughts on height?

I’m assuming your going with a 2” takeoff port to suit the PC.
If it’s a stand alone block head module, maybe 125mm tall, with the top of the port 25mm down from the top. Gives you 50mm underneath. That old 3rds rule, just for looks.
If integrating the RC into the bottom of the blockhead, I’d make it no longer than 225mm.

RC construction depends on how you want to run your still.
You can make it 175mm tall and it will stop all you could ever throw at it, so you will need to vary water flow through it with a needle valve.
I've made one about 80mm tall because my plan is to run my bubbler through power management.
Ie water is on flat out then find the point of full reflux at say 1500w then just up the power until I get the output rate I want (in theory anyway, I've yet to run mine).

With the blockhead don't forget about the option of using a botanical basket above your RC if you want to vapour infuse your spirit without the expense of a stand alone Carter head.

So my vote goes to a standalone blockhead tee separate to the RC.

Good points guys. I think a stand alone RC is a good idea. Will get this blockhead tee designed and then get into the nitty gritty of the RC design. Dunnonuthin, I like your thinking with the tee design. Simple ratios that look balanced. What about the idea of extending the height so that botanicals could be placed above the RC. Maybe around the 200mm mark? Or if need be I could draw up two. That gives builders an option. Suggestions?

Options are good with a modular design.
But also everyone is different so they can work out what they want to do on their own if you only want to show certain methods.

Sweet. Will draw up the blockhead tee tonight. Here is the module with the two dimensions included.

Been slaving away putting modules together. Finally constructed them all. The last three took about 2 minutes to make.

When it's all put together you'll have to put all the modules in a single post together.

Looking good, must be a slow build tho. The copper is pitted.

Funny man. The closest colour I could get to copper on Sketchup was a texture called “rusty steel” I could import a colour or photograph some shiny copper and then bring that into the package but nah, there’s other stuff thats of a higher priority at the moment. Your comment did did however, put a grin on the dial.

Lesgold wrote:Funny man. The closest colour I could get to copper on Sketchup was a texture called “rusty steel” I could import a colour or photograph some shiny copper and then bring that into the package but nah, there’s other stuff thats of a higher priority at the moment. Your comment did did however, put a grin on the dial.

She's alright mate, nothing a virtual citric bath and a coat of virtupaint can't fix

Blockhead tee is drawn. Will put up a simple drawing with the three major dimensions a bit later.

I would put the 2" branch up as high as you can while still maintaining clamp clearance.

Put the offset at 25mm. Should give enough clearance for tri clamps.

The length of the blockhead tee could be increased to 200+ mm if a gin basket were to be used.
The build so far:

A 90 degree 2” bend with easy flanges is quite simple to make. Many would say that it would be easier to spend $30 and buy a stainless one. At least it is an option. Here’s what I came up with.




Allowances have to be made for material to be fitted into the bend. Add this to these measurements.


The bend can now be added to the blockhead tee.


Next job is to look at a shotgun condenser. Length and number of cooling tubes are the main considerations. Let me know if you have any specific preferences or requirements eg length 450, 500, 550 mm etc. cooling tubes - 4, 5, 6 etc. I was thinking of using 1/2” tube as water inlet/ outlet. People can make their own decisions in relation to fittings etc.

300mm cooling pipe length 5x 1/2" tubes 2" shell works tested to 3600watts..

+1 to what Bluc said, My shotgun PC is 2” x 500mm long, 6 x 1/2” tubes. After using it with 2200w in potstill strip mode, it has heaps of spare capacity. The not so obvious issue to consider is your collection point height. Then when you put in your packed section, your collection point moves up by the same height. Rather inconvenient. (as you found with your recent build) So you need a way to manage that issue. I’m still thinking about that one.