Proposed Build - Need some input

[karrotbear]

Hello all, I've been toying around with the idea of a bubbler for awhile now. Especially like the idea of short run times relative to my current VM.

What I want to build:
4" Modular Bubbler with 5 to 6 (perforated / single / multiple bubble caps - not sure which is best?), a packed section (x mm) (either volcanic rock or SS scribbers), a 155mm 4" Shotgun RC with 9 x 32mm vapour tubes, 500mm 2" shotgun PC with 5 x 10mm vapour tubes, copper breather (like Brendan's build) and then the parrot. I will be using (maybe) 2 x 2.4kW elements to bring up to temp and then just using 1 for the remaining run.

For the Boiler
Will be getting some 4" clamps and shit eventually (when I get my new kegs - eventually) and take it to a metalworking shop and get them to tig it all for me. So I will probably be looking at getting two of MacStills element gaurds and having the 1" ferrules tig'd aswell. So I'd be thinking of replacing the 2" port on the keg with a 4" and also add a 4" fill port. 1" SS ball valve for emptying

I intend to use the standard 4 plate config for whiskeys and rums, with the 5 or 6 plate with packed section for my neutrals. (When the extra plates and sections are added I will just add a 1m ish section to the PC to bring it down to take off height)

My problem is that I only have a standard ceiling height to work with, so lets say 2.3m (to be safe). I will be looking to buy the 5 or 6 qual 4" tees (mainly because I dont trust my worksmanship to get me plumb easy flanges, but then again I do have 2m of 4" sitting around and begging to be ravaged... with allot of brazing rods aswel).

So I drew it all up in AutoCAD allowing about 22mm per triclamp join (10mm per flange and 2mm for gasket - just to be safe), with 5 plates I can pretty much fit in a standard 600mm packed section, and with 6 plates, I would have to reduce that section down by about 200 to 300mm. Is it better to have fewer plates, and a longer packed section, or more plates with a substantially shorter packed section? What has the biggest influence in terms of producing a neutral? I read in Brendan's build that he still has to double distill his vodka's (6 plates with packed section) - if you had 5 plates and a longer section would that be better or worse?

When it comes to the actual plates, i will be looking to fit them in between the unions on each tee, and probably look at just buying the standard copper plate from MacStill, or just building my own (i will become one with my hammer!). I know the perf plates are allot more work, but between the single large bubble cap, multiple small bubble caps and perf plates which is better? (I am sure i will get arguements for and against for each). Generally how deep should the bubble bath be? And what influence does the bubble bath have on the final product?

Approximate Bill of Quantities
Copper
5 - 6 x 4” Equal Tees
2 x 4” to 2” Reducers
0.6 – 1m of 4” pipe
2 m of 2” pipe
1.4 – 1.5 m of 32mm pipe
3 m of 10mm pipe
2 x 2” 90 deg bends
2 x 2” to 1” reducers
Assorted Joiners

Triclamps and SS Items
17 – 19 4” Triclamps
27 ish 4” Ferrules
9 – 12 4” silicon gaskets
5 x 2” triclamp sets
2 x 1” triclamp sets

Whatever I need to make the plates.

Does it look like I have missed something or need to consider anything else?

[blond.chap]

Wow, that's quite a post, you're just about there with the design, my comments in blue.

Hello all, I've been toying around with the idea of a bubbler for awhile now. Especially like the idea of short run times relative to my current VM.

What I want to build:
4" Modular Bubbler with 5 to 6 suggest 4 (perforated / single / multiple bubble caps - not sure which is best?), a packed section (x mm) (either volcanic rock or SS scribbers), a 155mm 4" Shotgun RC Suggest you reduce this to 80mm high or less with 9 x 32mm vapour tubes, 500mm 2" shotgun PC with 5 x 10mm vapour tubes, copper breather (like Brendan's build) and then the parrot. I will be using (maybe) 2 x 2.4kW elements to bring up to temp and then just using 1 for the remaining run.

For the Boiler
Will be getting some 4" clamps and shit eventually (when I get my new kegs - eventually) and take it to a metalworking shop and get them to tig it all for me. So I will probably be looking at getting two of MacStills element gaurds and having the 1" ferrules tig'd aswell. So I'd be thinking of replacing the 2" port on the keg with a 4" and also add a 4" fill port. 1" SS ball valve for emptying Sounds fine, have a look at a drain point in the middle of the bottom of the keg if you can, needs legs but better draining

I intend to use the standard 4 plate config for whiskeys and rums, with the 5 or 6 plate with packed section for my neutralsSuggest just using 4 plates and a longer packed section. (When the extra plates and sections are added I will just add a 1m ish section to the PC to bring it down to take off height)

My problem is that I only have a standard ceiling height to work with, so lets say 2.3m (to be safe). I will be looking to buy the 5 or 6 qual 4" tees (mainly because I dont trust my worksmanship to get me plumb easy flanges, but then again I do have 2m of 4" sitting around and begging to be ravaged... with allot of brazing rods aswel). Come on, build your tees, you learn the skills while you build

So I drew it all up in AutoCAD allowing about 22mm per triclamp join (10mm per flange and 2mm for gasket - just to be safe), with 5 plates I can pretty much fit in a standard 600mm packed section, and with 6 plates, I would have to reduce that section down by about 200 to 300mm. Is it better to have fewer plates, and a longer packed section, or more plates with a substantially shorter packed section?As above, go longer packed section and just the 4 plates What has the biggest influence in terms of producing a neutral? I read in Brendan's build that he still has to double distill his vodka's (6 plates with packed section) - if you had 5 plates and a longer section would that be better or worse?

When it comes to the actual plates, i will be looking to fit them in between the unions on each tee, and probably look at just buying the standard copper plate from MacStill, or just building my own (i will become one with my hammer!).If I was doing mine again I'd get macs $10 plates, definately worth it as these take ages and you break a lot of drill bits I know the perf plates are allot more work, but between the single large bubble cap, multiple small bubble caps and perf plates which is better? (I am sure i will get arguements for and against for each). Most accounts are that they all perform fairly similarly, but I like how perf plates look

Generally how deep should the bubble bath be? And what influence does the bubble bath have on the final product? about 10-20mm (dictated by downcomer height, deeper bath means more vapour-liquid interaction so more purity, too deep will increase the risk of entertainment and/or flooding

Approximate Bill of Quantities
Copper
5 - 6 x 4” Equal Tees
2 x 4” to 2” Reducers
0.6 – 1m of 4” pipe
2 m of 2” pipe
1.4 – 1.5 m of 32mm pipe
3 m of 10mm pipe
2 x 2” 90 deg bends
2 x 2” to 1” reducers
Assorted Joiners

Triclamps and SS Items
17 – 19 4” Triclamps
27 ish 4” Ferrules
9 – 12 4” silicon gaskets
5 x 2” triclamp sets
2 x 1” triclamp sets

Whatever I need to make the plates.

Does it look like I have missed something or need to consider anything else? If you're making flanges, I'd recommend wrapping 1/4" annealed pipe around them and beating it flat, they end up a bit thin otherwise, you'll need around 6-8 meters for all your joins (less if you're not doing modular sections)

[tickle]

Great post, and you've Gotten great advice. Caps vs perf has been beaten to death, resurrected and beaten more! I have both, as others here have made both as well. Drilling the holes sucks. But overall, I like the way perfs handle and respond compared to caps. Fast to respond to reflux changes, its like a sports car compared to a truck. But, having said that, you are not planning a variable controller..some have noted that there is some fine tuning while you find the gspot. I run gas, cant comment personally, but I can see how the big hot tub in a cap style would be less impacted. So I guess I'm saying build a power controller, or build a bubble cap. :teasing-blah:

[karrotbear]

Haha thanks for all the input, I'll let you guys know once I start collecting the req parts (going to the scrappy to see if they have any fittings, if so it will be a bought copper tee build, if not it will end up as a wonky still - probably called "Go home you're drunk")

I have a power controller already (use it for my VM) and it is pretty schmick... Kinda, whenever I turn it on i jump back and listen for any wierd noises :P

[Cane Toad]

Hey KB :handgestures-thumbupleft: Just a little exercise for you before you go balls and all :handgestures-thumbupleft: PM Mac with your desired list and get a price :handgestures-thumbupleft: then armed with this price,add,taking a stab in the dark,however many hours you think it will take you to build the bubbler,not allowing for fuckups,and what do you come up with? :think: :think:
Then,take $1250,for one of Mac's starter packs,add another,say,$200 for incedentals,extra ferrules and clamps for your packed section and extensions,your not gunna get out of this without building something, and there you have it :handgestures-thumbupleft: :handgestures-thumbupleft: piss easy,everything straight and true and you get the satisfaction of knowing that you have contributed some form of labour and skill to the finished build,(you just don't let on that all the hard work has been done for you :D )

[karrotbear]

That's the thing there Pinto,

I do have the funds now to go and do that, but I need something to keep me busy when I'm not at uni/not at work. Like I took my sweet as time building my VM (not so much time building the pot) but that is what I enjoyed. I don't really enjoy running it persay, but I do thouroughly enjoy the build :P

The option of buying it ready made when Mac put his pics up was really tickling my fancy. Like seriously. But it takes the thrill out of the build if you know what I mean :/ Same could be said I guess for buying the copper tees. But I will do a full pricing of my build vs MacStill and put some intangible variables in there like "cool factor, and job satisfaction, not to mention partner piss off levels" :)

Ps. a while back someone did a copper group buy, but for somereason I can't find it on the forum anymore, was it deleted? I just want to find out where the copper was sourced from, so I can ask for a quote :)

[Cane Toad]

" but I need something to keep me busy when I'm not at uni/not at work."

You are 120% correct with this statement KB :handgestures-thumbupleft: :handgestures-thumbupleft: Dont get me wrong mate, I'm not trying to sway your decision any which way,even tho I'm still walking around playing with myself thinking about Cindy :shhh: :laughing-rolling:
But when you think about it, you are gunna have heaps to do,packed section etc,but most important of all,making the best non-commercial alcohol you have ever tasted :handgestures-thumbupleft: :handgestures-thumbupleft: ATM there are not enough spare hours for me,I'm obsessed with researching and collecting all the ingredients to make a first class single malt :handgestures-thumbupleft: :laughing-rolling: I've got enough shine put away to last me 12-18 months so I can focus on what lays ahead,barring mango and lychee season again of course :scared-eek:
Which ever way you decide to go mate,good luck :handgestures-thumbupleft: :handgestures-thumbupleft: Now pull your bloody finger out and don't forget the photos :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling:

[Aussiedownunder01]

And keep your hands out of your pockets it will send you blind :laughing-rolling:

[Cane Toad]

8-) What,who said that 8-) 8-) :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling: