4" Lazy Boy Bubbler Build

[Yummyrum]

Nice work Dmnted.

Good to see you getting off ya butt :laughing-rolling: ya lazy bastard :teasing-tease:

[Dmnted]

Thanks Yummy

The 15 mins sanding was tough, but I got there in the end :laughing-rolling:

[punchy21]

Those 180's do look nice don't they... ^:)^

[Dmnted]

Took me ages to find punchy.
They also have 3/4" for J cup.

[Dmnted]

So yesterday in the garage I got started on soldering.
After about 6 and a half hours I got quite a few bits done.
As mentioned before I have no experience in soldering but tried to make sure I will have no leaks.
I hope they clean up nicely with a wire brush and a polishing wheel on the bench grinder!

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[Yummyrum]

Good work.Your'e on the home run now.

[Dmnted]

Thanks yummy.
They have cleaned up pretty well now.
Still plenty more to do but hope to have most completed next week.
I'm leaving the hardest parts until last.
More photos to come. :D

[punchy21]

More photos to come. :D

:angry-tappingfoot:

Don't leave us hanging...

[Dmnted]

Sorry punchy :teasing-neener:

Got the Dc's done yesterday

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Today I put together the product condensor and leak tested it with no pressure.

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Plenty of cleaning up and polishing to do :crying-blue:
I have soldered everything including stainless to copper using the bernzomatic solder.
I ordered 56% silver solder and found it too hard to work with unless you have an oxy available.

Last part of the build to go is the deflag.

[tickle]

This is looking great! Keep it up! And dont worry, you have the attention of some of the best builders around (not including myself, these guys here are awesome). Like Mac said, if something looks amiss, you'll hear about it.

To address the down commer question, I dont see it making much difference...its more about the trapped liquid level. We run only the tiniest pressure in these column, so the depth can be minimal, like the inverted caps. As pressure rises, the depth would need to be deeper to avoid the pressure below pushing the fluid back up the downcommer. Anyway, we should never have that kind of pressure. So, the drop distance is of little conquence, its more about the trapped liquid depth......hope that makes sense..

Edited so I can see if anybody responds for more info, and so I can follow thread....

[Dmnted]

Thanks Tickle, that explains it perfectly!

I used a dremel to cut down the tubes of the product condensor today and also cleaned it and the u bend up.
I found an attachment which is pretty much like a scouring pad on a wheel.
It gives a brushed effect which i like.
I can use a cutting compound on another wheel and then a polishing wheel to get a mirror finish, but I kind of like the brushed look.
Besides....I'M LAZY!

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I also filled the column with water today and found two small leaks.
Fixed in about 20 mins and reflux condensor should be done tomorrow....but I have said that before :oops:

[Yummyrum]

Thats going to end up a fine Rig. I'm really starting to see the value in all the turning down of Ferrules now .

[Bushy]

Hey Demon ted,
That is some very neat lookin work you're doin there. I take my hat off to you mate.
Keep it up :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Dmnted]

It should work out well Yummy although, they are not cheap!
From memory I spent close to $600 on expandon ferrules and had them cut down

Thanks Bushy for the encouragement! :handgestures-thumbupleft:

I got the deflag together today.
The body is 220mm high to accomodate a thermometer.
The water jacket gives 5 inches of cooling through 7 x 3/4" tubes.
The distance between the top plate and the bottom of the water is about 230mm
Some of you may notice an extra connection which has been capped off above the thermometer (cooling in and out at the rear)
I decided to have it there to be able to measure water temp.
May or not be useful but thought to add it in anyways.
Now just to clean it all up.

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[Yummyrum]

Thats pretty cool Ted the Demon ( you started it Bushy :teasing-neener: )

You can probably turn the RC upside down and you have thermo at top . :think: .Some like it one way ,some like it the other,you can try both :handgestures-thumbupleft: .

You also have the option to try half water level by having that capped off point .Very flexible unit there :-B

[punchy21]

Very nice work :clap:

So the thermo is measuring water temp in the RC and not vapour temp?

I think I got it now - thermo for vapour and other socket for future experiments...

[Dmnted]

Thats it yummy,
Flexible to run each way although i didn't think about running the condensor half full but it definitely can be done easily.
You got me thinking :-B

Punchy, the thermometer is in the vapour path at the moment but a can swap for water temp or both at any time.
I just thought it would be a good thing to see defalg water temp.
I will be running this stright off the tap before getting a more permanent water tank.
I assume water temps through the tap will vary depending on the time of the year.
Knowing the water temp may be more accurate to pull fores, heads and hearts.
Just a thought as I have not done a run yet :oops:

[punchy21]

Got ya, don't mind me 8-}

[Dmnted]

Ha Ha punchy, It's more like don't mind me.
My thought is the whole process involves various temps.
Regardless of input and output flow through the deflag, the temps which let vapour pass though is a more accurate way of controlling the operation.
I have seen video with 2 drops per second for fores and toothpick size flow from the parrot during the hearts, I just thought as there is a direct relationship between the delag water temp and vapour / output, it may be an easier way to run things.
I may be the one that is crazy though 8-}

[MacStill]

I decided to have it there to be able to measure water temp.
May or not be useful but thought to add it in anyways.

Good move IMHO, reckon that's going to help you more than a temp guage anywhere else on a bubbler.

Nice build, bet your getting itchy by now.

:happy-partydance: