Building a Glass Bubbler

[bt1]

Howdy,

I’m part way through building the next toughened glass (Borosilicate - Pyrex if you like) bubbler. This new one being 115mm diameter and figured it might be of value to do a write up for those folk looking for an easy way to get into a bubbler.

Costs are relative to how much effort you wish to put in… do you make your own plates or buy them? SS ferules or easy flange?…you get the picture. You’re going to need between $450 to $700 depending on what you have/need, how/where you buy.

In real terms you can put one of these together in 3 - 4 weekends with no stress and still fulfil your relationship “duties” without much hassle. There’s no one way to build one, but this one is focused on ease and costs. Lots of options exist but that dear members, is your call.

Why glass?
Well it teaches you plenty cos you see it all happening. It avoids complexity like sight glasses and as a result is faster to build and requires fewer skills to complete.

Why not?
Glass doesn’t dent, need to accept that and treat the still accordingly.

Decisions to be made?

Glass lantern lenses http://www.primusaustralia.com.au/index.php?p=line&sid=1286334965&arch=1

These are readily available through BCF store or other camping supplies/online. There are two sizes in clear
8325-10 Medium clear glass 89Ø x 106Hmm
8110-10 Large clear glass 110Ø x 115Hmm
You’ll need to decide which you prefer and therefore your column and sheet sizing as a result.

Copper sheet square plates. You could buy a ¼ sheet and cut yourself for $150 (Surman metals Adelaide) or pre order 2mm thick pre cut sheets cut to any size from AE metals.
http://www.surmanmetals.com/copper/
https://www.aemetal.com.au/Webstore/c-148-bshco0p0000.aspx
There are others around who will pre cut George Weston ??? in QLD you just to look around.

Do you easy flange the two 4”/100mm ends or use SS ferules?

Do you use SS Booker rod or go deco and use brass or black carbon? How many plates (based on 5) or go semi modular and have as many or few as you like
Rock filtering section?

Requirements (5 plate, plain SS rod, 89 Dia lanterns)

6 x 125mm x either 1.6mm or 2.0mm (preferred) square sheets $15.00ea
6 lenses, 1 spare $12 ea
1m 4”/100 copper actual need is 400 - 500mm $120
1m 2”/50mm copper actual need is <.8m $75
1 x 45 degree 50mm bend $15
1 roll 6.37mm ¼” soft annealed tube actual need <5m $60
1 m ½” 12.7mm hard drawn copper tube $15
1m 1”/25mm tube $60
50mm end cap $10
50mm to 19mm3/4” reducer $3
100mm to 50mm reducer $28
12.7mm 90degree elbow $2
19mm 45 degree bend $3
3 x Brass hose joiners $3 ea
12.7mm end cap $3
4 x 1m x6mm SS booker rod $4ea
Approx 60 6mm SS nuts $6
1 silicon baking sheet $12
2 x 100mm SS triclamps $14ea
1 x Gate valve $6
2 solder on 12.7m brass to gate valve sleeves $2 ea
1 x 19mm to 12.7mm reducer $2
1 pkt SS 6g 9mm 24+ sheet metal screws $4

Doing it!
Grab one of the glass segments, and make up a gasket template approx 6mm wide so glass sits in the middle of the gasket width. Old tin lid works.
Grab your plates, holding together paint one edge so you have a permanent marking for later assembly.

Mark out the 6mm holes required in each corner on one plate for booker rod. Pilot drill plates together so there’s no variation in plate to plate rod location. Drill out to 6mm.

Centre the gasket template on plate, scribe out gasket location on plates. Get ruler or set square and start marking up perf plate holes in 5mm centre to centre square pattern ensuring none intrude onto gasket area. Work out where your downcomer will sit, allowing 5mm+ clearance at a min to the glass segment walls…you don’t want them rubbing :handgestures-thumbdown:

Centre punch the junction points so you have a grid for drilling. Top plate clearly won’t need doing and could either be a plain hole or drilled to 6mm pass through/rock filter plate.

Get comfy, had sex, eaten, get the tunes blaring, a drinky perhaps, place single plate on a soft timber base, lube it up clamp it down and start drilling the 1.5mm holes. On mine, back drilled the backs with 2.5mm as a counter synch ensuring none go through the plate….up to you. Finish em all off.

While you’re on fire, mark up 4 90 degree separated screw location pins. These SS screw heads should just sit on the edge of the gasket, holding it down/ in location making sure you have clearance to glass segment walls…no touchies here allowed!

Drill out your ¾” 19mm downcomer locations. A counter synch then hand finish for a tight fit with round file.

I see a lot of comment on drilling plates as being hard or wearisome…rubbish I say! Seriously it’s no biggy and you can finish 6 plates in less than a morning. A lot faster and lower cost than the alternative. The lightest drill helps, there no load here its copper! also a rest under the handle if it has one like a car wash sponge works…mate did his with 2 ocky straps to reduce the weight supported…just think about it a bit.

One spare evening using your gasket template cut up your silicon gaskets you’ll need 10 for a five plater. A dead sharp Stanley or scalpel (craft shops $4) work a treat.

Cut up your preferred length of 100mm/4” sleeves easy flange up. It’s not hard but take it easy personally just use a small 165gm ball hammer on the edge of a vice and gradually work it out until its near flat and finish it off from the reverse direction to get it dead flat. Tip :handgestures-thumbupleft: tape up the pipe to avoid hammer hit marking! Do your two 6mm flattened solder on rings from ¼” tube you bought ….see easy flange posts.

Get your down comers done. (Not needed for top plate) For caps, I simply use slices of 1”/25.4mm tube about 12mm (15mm for bottom plate to avoid blow past) high and solder on to scrap flattened sheet off cuts and grind off..Saves buying caps. The downcomer has two cut outs to allow flow out ensuring is well under the cap depth. Tack solder to cap and you’re done. I use 10mm to 15 mm downcomer heights for whole variety of reasons not appropriate here.

I prefer the short splash and scatter type downcomer as it randomly drops to lower plate and mainly as it frees up space on the lower plates by not having a cap. Soft solder only in your down comers.
Soft solder your 100mm joiner east flanged sleaves to your top plate and bottom plate. Tub everything up with a wire brush wheel if you like the finish or wet/dry & SS wool.

Not really going into too much detail on the top section, 4”/100mm flanged reducer, elbow, RC and PC cos it’s no different for a normal design other than the offset cold finger. Use this to reduce weight and torsional load on the column itself. It’s a simple twin helix coil with a ¾” 19mm cold finger insert, end capped.
Total length of cold finger is about 300mm. This may vary depending on climate and where you live.

Get the lawns and relationship stuff done take a break next weekend you assemble.

Assembly is a treat to do and takes nothing more than a bit of patience. Mount your base plate/sleave to your keg tri clamp it up. Use your painted edge line so plates are mounted consistently. Get a chair and table next to it, get your parts laid out, two spanners for 6mm nuts, screw driver to tighten off the retaining gasket screws.
Insert the 4 booker rods, double lock nut bases, tied tops off so they aren’t flapping about. Then it just the logical gasket, screw down, glass gasket, nuts, new plate routine. Make sure glass segments are centred and not touching the gasket retainer screws.

If you want it modular say after 4th plate put a couple of nuts below 4th plate, cut rods to length use the nuts lubed up to clean thread. Pop on joiner retainer nuts and just continue to stack up sections.

That’s about all there is really, it isn’t tricky and there no traps hidden in the design it’s mainly common sense stuff. Here’s the link to the first build thread which covers more detail, testing/abuse etc.

http://aussiedistiller.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=3015

Enjoy...get building!
bt1

[db1979]

Awesome bt1!

I'll be making a glasser as my next build but that won't be for a while... I'll definitely come back to this thread when I do. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[5 o'clock]

Hi BT, Mac and other collective brains out there,

I am looking at this thread with serious interest. I love the look of both of the glass and 5 star gear and am thinking of a hybrid.

Would it be possible to utilise Macs plates and basic pot still design to help with this build? I have less time and skills than I think most on here have but think I can give this a serious crack.

I am hoping that the internal diameter of the 110mm glass will allow this, if not the rest of this post is wasted time.

What I am thinking is along the lines of the following...

At the bottom is a 2 to 4 inch reducer with a piece of something (with a just under 4 inch hole cut into it) slipped over it to use as the bottom plate for the clamping rods to attach to.

Each plate will have to be tacked into a piece of copper or stainless to increase the diameter enough to support the glass and gaskets and attach the supporting rods. I like the 5 star bubble caps but will they fit into the glasses?

At the top we add a 5 star reflux condenser, then another 2 to 4 inch reducer with another ring over it to complete the clamping rods.

I am assuming that the 5 star product condenser will be too heavy so I am thinking of a long piece of thin copper pipe wound into a drum of water such that no serious weight is supported by the column. I also like the look of that as it is the image I have of traditional moonshining.

Am I on a path that is possible?

Then I need a keg, anyone in northern NSW have a spare, preferably with a 4 inch fill port and sight glass and one or two of Macs elements already attached?

Thanks for your clear description Bt, hope you can picture what I am trying to do,

Richard,

image.jpg

[bt1]

Howdy,

All things are possible, I tend to stay in the realm of what's practical mainly...sorry it my brain wiring and 25 years in the IT industry at fault.

The reason for 2mm preferred or 1.6mm plate thickness and using only soft solder minimally is to retain the work hardened sheet strength. I'm not sure how you would achieve this at sufficient levels to hold plate tension.
The cone sections take up space but don't add anything in terms of function. A simpler 2" to 4" adapter might suffice. I think Mac sells em in any case.
RC why not I say...it's much the muchness really.

I can't speak for Mac's kit cos I've not used it, but would hazard a guess and say given SS tubes additional strength it would be lighter than the same item in copper for improved strength, so a SS shotty PC may be ok. Mac may have shipping weights or simular to assist. I'd say longer term this would be far more practical than stuffing around with a worm coil, recirculating water, draining each time etc etc.

A slip over top plater over the 100mm to 50mm reducer would work...why not. Would be a good improvement if you intend to go modular and change from 4 plater to 6 or more etc regularly.

keep working it through, no good workable design was ever achieved in under 1 hour...

bt1

[Sam.]

I reckon you will find a stainless tee from FSD will be heavier than a copper one of the same diameter :handgestures-thumbupleft:

The stainless is a shit load thicker than normal copper :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[crow]

At the risk of getting punched up again can I just add in this thread that for obvious safety reasons it would be preferable to see future builds of this nature ran on electric or steam heated boilers. Sooner or later there will be tears using these on open flames

[1 2many]

The look of the glass bubbler is realy cool , but I am with crow on this too , What if you where running your still under the pagoler all is going well until Fred from across the road starts his whipper snipper and throughs a stone through plate number 3 shatters the glass and Fuel is going everywhere :scared-eek:

:laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling:

[Yummyrum]

You won't get bet up on this one Crow ,

I was just thinking OH&S risk assesment .But I like your worst case scenerio better 1 2 many.

Yup shit will happen. Definitely recommend electric only .

[db1979]

Great point Crow :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Yummyrum]

bt1
"GAS BAGGIN" aside.
That is probably the best most instructional "how to" I have ever seen.
Like db1979 said, this definitely has to be built. Just got to get the copper one done first .One fantisy at a time

[bt1]

Yeh,

cheers bloke...it really is a simple one to build and low stress ...no biggys that cause that "F" word to pop out and frustration to build up.

A couple of recycled picies to explain the down comers...test one was Mapp gassed but don't use this...use soft solder and propane blue bottles cos its lower heat doesn't therefore anneal the plate and preserves the sheet hardness...important when it comes to tensioning up the plates.

Image005.jpg

Image004.jpg

Image006.jpg

bt1

[drunkmore]

At the risk of getting punched up again can I just add in this thread that for obvious safety reasons it would be preferable to see future builds of this nature ran on electric or steam heated boilers. Sooner or later there will be tears using these on open flames

I'm not trying "punch you up" :violence-stickwhack: honestly
This is now directed at everybody.
Have a really close look at your still...Now go and seriously inspect your still............how many dings and scratches did you find on it? :doh: I'll wait while you go and have another look.
To your recollection How many of those were put in while your still was in production?

if you answer is A. I don't know. Or B. more than 1 then you probably should not build or own a glasser
Having said that... I do agree to some point that this is a piece of kit that needs to be treated with a lot or care and attention, way more than your copper or SS.
And Crow I :clap: you for your timely reminder of a potential nasty accident. :text-thankyoublue:

[Dominator]

Of those dings, how many were put in while you were rooting around and building your still? A lot of us get our copper from the scrap yard, how many were in there when you got the copper? Regardless of this, if you do build a glass column, you would be taking a lot more care. Would you have dented/scratched your column if you had treated it like glass? Yes a glass column is more fragile than copper but I don't think that should be a reason not to build one. With a bit of care and common sense there is no reason a glasser can't be just as safe as its copper counterpart.
I do agree about the heating method, you would not catch me using a glass anything with a gas burner, the result of a broken column with the plates fully loaded is unthinkable. :scared-eek:

[kiwikeg]

This.glass things been hashed out a million times,I don't think this thread is really the place to rerun all that bro-science.

I love glass bubblers

Please continue

[bt1]

Hello all,

the original build thread had a few hints at the tests i did to satisfy myself primarily it was a safe medium to use. I'm happy but accept there's no such thing as a dent and electric makes sense...although the frame plates take up most shock in the drop tests.

nearly 20 plus runs no issues.

Have a really close look at your still...Now go and seriously inspect your still............how many dings and scratches did you find on it? :doh: I'll wait while you go and have another look.
To your recollection How many of those were put in while your still was in production?

if you answer is A. I don't know. Or B. more than 1 then you probably should not build or own a glasser

If your routinely collecting dents and scratches perhaps you need to look at your work practices cos i sure as hell ain't.

bt1

[Canuck]

Howdy,

I’m part way through building the next toughened glass (Borosilicate - Pyrex if you like) bubbler. This new one being 115mm diameter and figured it might be of value to do a write up for those folk looking for an easy way to get into a bubbler.

Costs are relative to how much effort you wish to put in… do you make your own plates or buy them? SS ferules or easy flange?…you get the picture. You’re going to need between $450 to $700 depending on what you have/need, how/where you buy.

In real terms you can put one of these together in 3 - 4 weekends with no stress and still fulfil your relationship “duties” without much hassle. There’s no one way to build one, but this one is focused on ease and costs. Lots of options exist but that dear members, is your call.

Why glass?
Well it teaches you plenty cos you see it all happening. It avoids complexity like sight glasses and as a result is faster to build and requires fewer skills to complete.

Why not?
Glass doesn’t dent, need to accept that and treat the still accordingly.

Decisions to be made?

Glass lantern lenses http://www.primusaustralia.com.au/index.php?p=line&sid=1286334965&arch=1

These are readily available through BCF store or other camping supplies/online. There are two sizes in clear
8325-10 Medium clear glass 89Ø x 106Hmm
8110-10 Large clear glass 110Ø x 115Hmm
You’ll need to decide which you prefer and therefore your column and sheet sizing as a result.

Copper sheet square plates. You could buy a ¼ sheet and cut yourself for $150 (Surman metals Adelaide) or pre order 2mm thick pre cut sheets cut to any size from AE metals.
http://www.surmanmetals.com/copper/
https://www.aemetal.com.au/Webstore/c-148-bshco0p0000.aspx
There are others around who will pre cut George Weston ??? in QLD you just to look around.

Do you easy flange the two 4”/100mm ends or use SS ferules?

Do you use SS Booker rod or go deco and use brass or black carbon? How many plates (based on 5) or go semi modular and have as many or few as you like
Rock filtering section?

Requirements (5 plate, plain SS rod, 89 Dia lanterns)

6 x 125mm x either 1.6mm or 2.0mm (preferred) square sheets $15.00ea
6 lenses, 1 spare $12 ea
1m 4”/100 copper actual need is 400 - 500mm $120
1m 2”/50mm copper actual need is <.8m $75
1 x 45 degree 50mm bend $15
1 roll 6.37mm ¼” soft annealed tube actual need <5m $60
1 m ½” 12.7mm hard drawn copper tube $15
1m 1”/25mm tube $60
50mm end cap $10
50mm to 19mm3/4” reducer $3
100mm to 50mm reducer $28
12.7mm 90degree elbow $2
19mm 45 degree bend $3
3 x Brass hose joiners $3 ea
12.7mm end cap $3
4 x 1m x6mm SS booker rod $4ea
Approx 60 6mm SS nuts $6
1 silicon baking sheet $12
2 x 100mm SS triclamps $14ea
1 x Gate valve $6
2 solder on 12.7m brass to gate valve sleeves $2 ea
1 x 19mm to 12.7mm reducer $2
1 pkt SS 6g 9mm 24+ sheet metal screws $4

Doing it!
Grab one of the glass segments, and make up a gasket template approx 6mm wide so glass sits in the middle of the gasket width. Old tin lid works.
Grab your plates, holding together paint one edge so you have a permanent marking for later assembly.

Mark out the 6mm holes required in each corner on one plate for booker rod. Pilot drill plates together so there’s no variation in plate to plate rod location. Drill out to 6mm.

Centre the gasket template on plate, scribe out gasket location on plates. Get ruler or set square and start marking up perf plate holes in 5mm centre to centre square pattern ensuring none intrude onto gasket area. Work out where your downcomer will sit, allowing 5mm+ clearance at a min to the glass segment walls…you don’t want them rubbing :handgestures-thumbdown:

Centre punch the junction points so you have a grid for drilling. Top plate clearly won’t need doing and could either be a plain hole or drilled to 6mm pass through/rock filter plate.

Get comfy, had sex, eaten, get the tunes blaring, a drinky perhaps, place single plate on a soft timber base, lube it up clamp it down and start drilling the 1.5mm holes. On mine, back drilled the backs with 2.5mm as a counter synch ensuring none go through the plate….up to you. Finish em all off.

While you’re on fire, mark up 4 90 degree separated screw location pins. These SS screw heads should just sit on the edge of the gasket, holding it down/ in location making sure you have clearance to glass segment walls…no touchies here allowed!

Drill out your ¾” 19mm downcomer locations. A counter synch then hand finish for a tight fit with round file.

I see a lot of comment on drilling plates as being hard or wearisome…rubbish I say! Seriously it’s no biggy and you can finish 6 plates in less than a morning. A lot faster and lower cost than the alternative. The lightest drill helps, there no load here its copper! also a rest under the handle if it has one like a car wash sponge works…mate did his with 2 ocky straps to reduce the weight supported…just think about it a bit.

One spare evening using your gasket template cut up your silicon gaskets you’ll need 10 for a five plater. A dead sharp Stanley or scalpel (craft shops $4) work a treat.

Cut up your preferred length of 100mm/4” sleeves easy flange up. It’s not hard but take it easy personally just use a small 165gm ball hammer on the edge of a vice and gradually work it out until its near flat and finish it off from the reverse direction to get it dead flat. Tip :handgestures-thumbupleft: tape up the pipe to avoid hammer hit marking! Do your two 6mm flattened solder on rings from ¼” tube you bought ….see easy flange posts.

Get your down comers done. (Not needed for top plate) For caps, I simply use slices of 1”/25.4mm tube about 12mm (15mm for bottom plate to avoid blow past) high and solder on to scrap flattened sheet off cuts and grind off..Saves buying caps. The downcomer has two cut outs to allow flow out ensuring is well under the cap depth. Tack solder to cap and you’re done. I use 10mm to 15 mm downcomer heights for whole variety of reasons not appropriate here.

I prefer the short splash and scatter type downcomer as it randomly drops to lower plate and mainly as it frees up space on the lower plates by not having a cap. Soft solder only in your down comers.
Soft solder your 100mm joiner east flanged sleaves to your top plate and bottom plate. Tub everything up with a wire brush wheel if you like the finish or wet/dry & SS wool.

Not really going into too much detail on the top section, 4”/100mm flanged reducer, elbow, RC and PC cos it’s no different for a normal design other than the offset cold finger. Use this to reduce weight and torsional load on the column itself. It’s a simple twin helix coil with a ¾” 19mm cold finger insert, end capped.
Total length of cold finger is about 300mm. This may vary depending on climate and where you live.

Get the lawns and relationship stuff done take a break next weekend you assemble.

Assembly is a treat to do and takes nothing more than a bit of patience. Mount your base plate/sleave to your keg tri clamp it up. Use your painted edge line so plates are mounted consistently. Get a chair and table next to it, get your parts laid out, two spanners for 6mm nuts, screw driver to tighten off the retaining gasket screws.
Insert the 4 booker rods, double lock nut bases, tied tops off so they aren’t flapping about. Then it just the logical gasket, screw down, glass gasket, nuts, new plate routine. Make sure glass segments are centred and not touching the gasket retainer screws.

If you want it modular say after 4th plate put a couple of nuts below 4th plate, cut rods to length use the nuts lubed up to clean thread. Pop on joiner retainer nuts and just continue to stack up sections.

That’s about all there is really, it isn’t tricky and there no traps hidden in the design it’s mainly common sense stuff. Here’s the link to the first build thread which covers more detail, testing/abuse etc.

http://aussiedistiller.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=3015

Enjoy...get building!
bt1

late to the partyol' but great advice. thinking of doing my own glass, our version is Coleman lanterns 4.25 *4.25.

[Canuck]

wow thorough and amazing build notes. printing them now.... fired up.

[djfrestyla]

bt1,
For simplicity, how about a single bubble cap ?
This takes the hard work out of drilling all the holes, and I have found that it makes bugger all difference to acl %.
If anything, it may need slightly less power, as I have ran 5 plates + packed section on 1 x element (2200W).

10 inside look.JPG