4" bubbler build.

[Potmash Boka]

The start of the 4" bubbler. Got 2m of pipe for $180. Work will begin in about a week when I get home. It's going to be a 4 plate tree, then an additional 2 plate section can be added, with a 4" shotgun RC down to 2" 90 elbow into a 2" shotgun PC. Now to message Mac next week for the ferrules and clamps( have to wait for tax to come in). :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Linny]

Sourcing 4" copper is the hardest part .... its all down hill from here :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Potmash Boka]

Ok Guru's, when doing easy flanges how tight do you need the coil wraped? Started doing them today but can't get the coil to stay tight, it likes to spring out a bit , couple of mm. :sad: Is the normal for doing theses or should I tension the lot up and then clamp it to cut for rings? Help please.

[MacStill]

When you smack em flat they'll tighten up ;-)

[Potmash Boka]

Thanks Mac, I just very interested in how much slack you Pro's leave for the expansion when they flatten. Hopefully tomorrow I get my new TIG so I can flatten them and TIG the inside of the pipe to the flange. Going to solder the outside(top) so they look like their soldered just for the shinny bling factor. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[MacStill]

Sounds like a lot of fucking around for an easy flange mate, perhaps you should call it the FAF :laughing-rolling:

When you wind the coils they'll spring back a bit, just cut em and they'll fit.... never bothered with measuring the gap.

[SBB]

The gap were ya cut them kinda makes up for the spring, as Macs said they squash up tight when they are flattened.

[dogbreath vodka]

The easiest way to figure this sort of stuff out is to make one up.
That way you know and can adjust all those that follow. :handgestures-thumbupleft:
I call the first one "The mule"
It gets all the ideas worked out on it before making the ones you use. :-B

Did that with my sight glass seats.
The first was ok but with problems.... the next five worked well.

DBV

[crow]

I just followed the directions in the work bench section. First one I did was perfect and I am far from skilled at sticking copper together. The instructions are spot :handgestures-thumbupleft: on, I did hard solder mine though soft solder not being my forte

[Bushy]

Sounds like a lot of fucking around for an easy flange mate, perhaps you should call it the FAF :laughing-rolling:

When you wind the coils they'll spring back a bit, just cut em and they'll fit.... never bothered with measuring the gap.

And it's surprising how much gap takes up when you flatten em. If they're too tight before you start they can be a pain in the arse flange.

[Potmash Boka]

Thanks for the info guys. The new dilemma is do I go for a 7,8 or 12 tube RC? Going to go 3/4 tube inside the 4" outer.
Bugger it I might make a 7 and 12 just cause I can. :laughing-rolling:

[MacStill]

Thanks for the info guys. The new dilemma is do I go for a 7,8 or 12 tube RC? Going to go 3/4 tube inside the 4" outer.
Bugger it I might make a 7 and 12 just cause I can. :laughing-rolling:

9 x 3/4" tubes in a 4" RC is nice, and works great too :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Potmash Boka]

Might do an 8 and a 9 as well. Test out e different reflux capacity of each. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[MacStill]

5 is more than enough, you'd be better off testing volume rather than tubes ;-)

ie 5 tubes at 80mm long :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Potmash Boka]

What's the general consensus for PC? Length wise. I've seen some guys make them 550 long, I was planning 600 long( already have a piece cut) with a 5 tube bundle.
Comments please.

[ticknaylor]

Mines 450mm and I have to back if off a liitle to collect. Problem is with ya first build ya go over board trying to make it kickarse but when you run ya column youll realise you overkilled it 600 is way to much in my opinion

[Potmash Boka]

Well I got 2m of 1" and a 6m length of 3/8(10mm) today, I've decided the RC will be 4" diameter 100 mm long with 7 tubes at 1". The PC will be 2" at 600 long with 7 tubes of 10mm, this way I can use it with the pot column or the bubbler. :handgestures-thumbupleft:
I've managed to score a 1" needle valve for each condenser for 1l of product when it's built. :dance:
I will post some photos of the condensor's next week as I make them,all going to be TIGed as well.

[tickle]

Hey guys,
With regard to Pc length, I dont think too long is too long if you get my drift...longer will need less coolant flow, and of course there is a point of diminishing returns. Now, reflux condenser length is different....too long is a pain in the ass due to a Kinda flywheels effect...make adjustment,wait for result.....make another adjustment.......wait.....wait....repeat process.....you get the point. Take mac's advise, deal with column. Some guys run the water through the Pc first to preheated it to cut back on the "flywheels" effect. There are lots of ways to deal with it. But, with Pc..longer means less water flow, if consumption is a concern. :teasing-blah:

[Potmash Boka]

Rings are cut for easy flanges, 2" cut tubes and end plates cut, 4" tubes and end plates done. Just have to find the 4" pipe cutter and cut it to length( 100 mm) and then start welding it all up.

[Potmash Boka]

Ok, so I TIGed the end plates onto the RC tube, welded fairly well but needs shitloads of heat to get it to flow. Tacked the tubes in, and was now wondering if I could get away with brazing the tubes with 2% silver rods instead of thevTIG.
Can anyone see any problems with this ie braze in contact with the vapour path.