5 o'clock's bubbler build

[5 o'clock]

When Mac mentioned the 4 inch screw in sight glass kits and had already announced the bubble plates I realised that I might be capable of doing my own build. Will probably look back and think I should have just bought the complete kit from 5 star and done the 15 minute bubbler build but I like to look at something and think that I made that (even if I know I cheated on some bits).

I think this will be similar to Punchy's build but a lot slower to get to completion and will probably be dressed to the right. To be realistic I am aiming for Christmas!

Found two 4 inch copper tees ($37 each) so far, another two on back order. I don't have the patience or friends to do the lazy boy method. I am going to be flat out soldering the ferrules and sight glass mounts to the tees.

Picking up some 4 inch pipe tomorrow from a plumber who has used some today and has a metre or so left over. Will use that to make modular reflux condenser and packed / gin basket sections. Hopefully my limited skills at soldering will be sufficient, if not I know a plumber who likes my product and might be prepared to help me.

The Mac parts I ordered mid last week and received them yesterday and today. Very fast, very happy customer. Unfortunately local Aust Post contracters don't think i wanted to get all my presents at once despite them all being sent at the same time and probably sitting next to each other across the Nullabor.

Mac must spend hours bubble wrapping each piece individually because it took me longer to unwrap than kids on Christmas morning.

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The bits that have been supplied by 5 star fit together with almost zero tolerance. Perfect. Better than Ikea but didn't come with an Allen key or confusing instructions. By the way Mac, when I fit a plate between sections do I use a gasket (will need to trim it a bit) or does the copper seal tight enough on its own?

The plates will be 175mm apart - a bit more than recommended on a previous thread but that is the dimension of the tees plus ferrules. Is that going to slow things down?

Once I get close to finished with the tees I then have to move onto my boiler. Have already got my 4 inch fill / cleaning port. Given my physique I will have no problems getting my forearm through it and will probably be able to give a fair crack at getting half my chest in there also. Also have two nice elements to go in (and an electrician who likes my Christmas presents).

Please feel free to give advice but don't follow this build expecting rapid progress.

Cheers,

Richard

[punchy21]

I'm sure it will go together quicker than you think... Looking forward to seeing the finished product :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[MacStill]

The flashest still in yeehaa by a country mile, you'll be the happiest kid in the patch :teasing-tease:

You can trim the center of the seals out to the large ridge, I thought I put the right ones in there but must've stuffed up again :angry-banghead:

It's crazy busy here but I need to learn to slow down, two stuff ups in one week is getting embarrassing :oops:

Anyway, back to your build.... hurry up! :D

[5 o'clock]

So I thought it was time to make some progress.

Started by making a parrot to get used to using the solder. Didn't take very long once I had everything ready to go and probably looks like a rushed job to those used to working with metal. I won't give up my day job.

Here is the result.

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Not very pretty at all but it holds water.

A question.

When trying to get the pipe to go through the reducer and past it's constriction I tried heating the reducer and then banging the pipe into it hard but my result was to just roll the edges of the larger end. How to the experts do it? My solution was to cut the reducer where it was just bigger than one inch which works but from looking at others they don't do this.

Next step was to start soldering stainless ferrules into copper.

That wasn't as easy and when I consider that I need to do this at least a dozen times I could be in too deep for comfort.

I couldn't get the solder to flow at all into the joint. Cleaned both surfaces, flux (bernzomatic), heated the metal near the joint with the torch and applied the solder (also bernzomatic). It wouldn't flow at all and just formed balls. I tried heating the joint from the outside of the copper and the inside of the stainless.

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Weather is cold so hard to keep everything hot, should I preheat in the BBQ?

Any advice from those more capable of soldering would be very appreciated.

Haven't had a drink in 3 days but the thought of trying to solder all of my tees could have me reaching for a bottle if it goes as smoothly as this.

Cheers,

Richard

[MacStill]

Hi Richard,

I would start off as you have learning on copper to copper first, dont rush it, take it easy.

For soldering SS to copper you should take a look at this thread as there's a heap of good info on flux, soldering and prepping.

You can do it :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[punchy21]

Yep - go slow and keep moving your flame around the copper joint. I found that just aiming the flame at the copper, enough heat transferred and when it got up to temp just keep moving the flame in front of where you are soldering and dab the solder on. You should see the solder flowing to the flame heated area in front...

I hope I explained that ok?

With the ferrules I soldered from the outside and with the SSG's I soldered from the inside which gives a neater look. I ca take a pic if your interested?

[5 o'clock]

Hi Richard,

I would start off as you have learning on copper to copper first, dont rush it, take it easy.

For soldering SS to copper you should take a look at this thread as there's a heap of good info on flux, soldering and prepping.

You can do it :handgestures-thumbupleft:

I have now read every post in that thread (again). I thought I was doing things right except for flux choice but was using what I could find. Might need to go searching harder for 801 flux.

Can someone post a piccie of low flame, I think I had it low but how low is low?

[crow]

Ppl have had good success with good old bakers flux too, but personally i would avoid that monkey spunk bernzomatic flux paste as I have not had one single really successful join with it, ok maybe one. I had no trouble soldering copper to ss, i couldn't find my spoofy flux so I didn't use any , I mostly heated the copper and it flowed around just great. After my many fails with copper to copper I nearly pissed myself with excitement over how easy it was :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[5 o'clock]

Got some progress on my boiler.

Adjustable feet are on. Just bolted so far, I can use a drill much better than I can weld or solder. I might get some welds done to strengthen it when the ferrules are attached by someone who knows what they are doing.

Next step is the angle grinder....

[5 o'clock]

Cutting is now done at the top of the keg.

As with all things on this forum if you follow advice it can be easy. Just use light pressure and let the grinder do the work.

Next will be holes for 2 elements once the ferrules arrive. Like 12many last night I am debating going side by side or vertically separated.

Then I need to attach a bottom drain. I can't remember where I read it but my understanding is that brass fittings are ok for the drain. Please let me know if not.

Hope you have all enjoyed your fathers day.

Cheers,

Richard

[Dominator]

I used brass for my drain cause I'm a tight arse. :))

[Sam.]

It's a personal thing if you feel comfortable using brass for it. I would have no issue with it :handgestures-thumbupleft:

A stainless fitting wont be that much more anyway

[5 o'clock]

Last week I had everything I needed to get the boiler welded.

Rang around on Monday morning and found someone who could have it finished by the end of the week. Fantastic I thought and happily dropped it off.

I am going to go with 2 elements mounted next to each other. I have a stainless 20 mm elbow as a drain port for the base and asked him to mount the 4 inch fill port flat so that I can have the option of either a 2 or 4 inch mount for my still.

Went to pick it up today and the guy had decided it was too hard so he took it across the road for another business to do.

Now I am all for someone saying that another person will do a better job than they can and not starting something if you can't finish it well BUT I WANT MY BOILER BACK.

The other guy was away today, I don't know when he will get back or be able to have my job finished. I didn't get the chance to fully explain to him exactly what I want.

I am a bit nervous about how this is going to turn out.

As for putting the ferrules on my copper tees I have managed zero progress myself. I just haven't been able to keep enough heat in the metal for the solder to flow. I hope this is just because when I was trying the air temp was less than 10 degrees.

I had a refrigeration mechanic doing some work and asked his advice. He used an oxy and had the stainless glowing red and silver soldered it. He offered to do them all but I want to do something myself. Now the weather is warmer I am hoping to be able to keep some more heat in the copper and use soft solder. Hopefully will get a chance over the weekend.

[MacStill]

Geez that's bloody tough mate, they just dont get the importance of these things do they :snooty:

[5 o'clock]

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Ok so I now have my keg back.

My concerns re my not showing the guy exactly what i wanted were unwarranted.

He has done a fantastic job at a beautiful price. If anyone wants to know the name of a great tradie for stainless welding in New England send me a message.

The 4 inch fill port ferrule has been slightly extended to level it, the element ports are almost parallel to each other and he has welded in a 20 mm elbow as a drain in the bottom (that I need to put a tap on after cutting a bit out of the base of the keg).

All this for a few notes, at this price I think he would have been allergic to cards and cheques.

I have dropped my elements off to the sparkie for wiring. Got there at lunch time so had 6 different opinions bouncing around as I discussed voltage control with them, they were talking about a ?symestat? (Same as a hot plate controller) as the best option for this. I have no idea if this will work or not. My plan is to have one element controllable and the other either on or off.

Hopefully will be able to get a cleaning run and some pot stilling done over the long weekend.

It will be a 5 minute pot still build using my 5 star parts with one modular bubble plate. Next job in the build is to get the other ferrules into my tees then make a reflux condenser.

[redcane]

Looks great! I might be seeing the same guy soon enough.

They were talking about a "simmerstat", and yes it's exactly the same as a hot plate on the stove. This means it goes from 100% on to 100% off on a duty cycle determined by the dial (i.e. full blast 75% of the time and nothing 25%). The cycle is also very long (seconds to minutes) so output will fluctuate. From what I've read you really need a voltage controller, like a variax or at least something with a non-mechanical control so you get a faster cycle length (i.e. multiple times a second) to get a smoother control. I'm thinking I will eventually build something like viewtopic.php?f=60&t=3241. The solid state voltage control is a bit expensive, but it handles up to 25A!

[Dominator]

Yeah a simmerstat won't work, the on-off action is not suited to distilling. There are plenty of was and heaps of info on making a power/voltage controller around the internet. I made mine from one of these.

[5 o'clock]

I now have a bubbler.

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So far it's only 2 plates because I only have ferrules on one tee. Really not much more than a modified modular 5 star pot still.

Despite reading numerous posts on how to soft solder copper to stainless I have given up.

I have tried numerous types of solder and flux combinations with my little bernzo propane burner with no success. I have a friend who is a blacksmith and industrial arts teacher who also couldn't get it to work. Our theory is that the stainless isn't getting hot enough and the solder is solidifying on contact before it gets a chance to flow.

The one tee I have was done by my refrigeration mechanic with silver solder and an oxy after he too couldn't get my torch to work for him.

Next step is to hire an oxy for a weekend and get some real heat into the rest of them.

Currently running a stripping run of rum.

2 elements going took less than 40 min to start pissing it out then after tossing fores i turned one off and a steady stream is flowing now. From a wash at approx 12% it started producing at 70% with the two plates.

Anyone want to buy my old still?

[crow]

:think: strange perhaps that sized copper tee was just pulling to much heat out i would have thought the danger would have been getting the stainless too hot. Maybe I fluked it but my two goes at this I found really easy , copper to copper well I won't go there :roll:

[Smbjk]

Great job 5 o clock :handgestures-thumbupleft: your boiler looks awesome man super job. How did you cut your fill port hole