Bryan's Bubbler Build

[MacStill]

true yummy, completely forgot gas :angry-banghead:

[SBB]

..but on a Gas fired boiler , the extreme temps would fry any gaskets including teflon.

Just throwing this out there, Provided the drain pipe is full of liquid, how much hotter than the liquid inside of it can it get ?? I would think not a lot.
Have you ever tried boiling water in a paper cup on a camp fire, yes it is possible.

[Zak Griffin]

Talking to Bryan the the other night, and it seems that gas is a more sensible option for him, as he is off the grid ;-)

I do believe that there are guys here running a conventional ball valve drain with gas :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[RuddyCrazy]

OK Guy's,
Just trudged up the hill in the rain to take a couple of pic's so this is the basic layout



The main 4" upright tube hasn't been cut as yet and the RC, packed section is still yet to be made. On the right the shiny piece isn't in the 3" connector so it will be 40mm shorter. The tube below the shiny piece is the start of athe 3"x500mm PC shotgun.

The next pic is of the top section still all in bits as all part will need a citric acid bath before putting together to ensure the ID is totally clean



Main goal tomorrow is getting the PC and RC done, going into town to get some citric acid as swmbo forgot it today. Then onto the main column which will go into the bridgeport mill to bore the 4 holes for the site glass mounts

Cheers Bryan

[pulsetech]

How do you plan to Hold the Pipe in your mill. I have an X Guide but copper is so soft

[Sam.]

..but on a Gas fired boiler , the extreme temps would fry any gaskets including teflon.

Just throwing this out there, Provided the drain pipe is full of liquid, how much hotter that the liquid inside of it can it get ?? I would think not a lot.
Have you ever tried boiling water in a paper cup on a camp fire, yes it is possible.

I have had the whole bottom part of kegs glowing red from the heat of a burner and all the ball valves are fine, the teflon tape sticking out from the threads onto the nipple haven't even melted ;-)

I know there is an awesome pic on here somewhere of it but good luck finding it :teasing-neener:

[MacStill]

Isn't thread tape rated to 450c or something ridiculous like that ?

I'd say glowing red might be a problem tho :))

[SBB]

I take it you were doing a quick strip Sam :))

[pulsetech]

Colour

Temperature [°C]

Black red (when viewed in dull light) 426 to 593
Very dark red 593 to 704
Dark red 704 to 814
Cherry red (lower critical point) 815 to 870 (critical point depends on carbon content of steel)
Light cherry red 871 to 981
Orange 981 to 1092
Yellow 1093 to 1258
Yellow white 1259 to 1314
White 1315+

[RuddyCrazy]

How do you plan to Hold the Pipe in your mill. I have an X Guide but copper is so soft

easy machine up some bungs to 98mm OD and insert them where the clamps will go......

[pulsetech]

How do you plan to Hold the Pipe in your mill. I have an X Guide but copper is so soft

easy machine up some bungs to 98mm OD and insert them where the clamps will go......

:handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Yummyrum]

OK Guy's,
Just trudged up the hill in the rain to take a couple of pic's so this is the basic layout
Cheers Bryan

Thanks Bryan ..trooper .

Re: the drain comments , fair enough guys ,I was only thinking of heat transfer through a tri- clamp one end will be red hot ...the other as SBB correctly points out at boiling point ....in between a gasket .

I have seen what direct heat to teflon tape does and was basing my comment on this ...it being the highest temp rated gasket material AFAIK....Sorry Bryan

[RuddyCrazy]

Yea guy's on the boiler I do intend to weld a 2" fitting with a right angle then a 2" SS ball valve will be on the outside of the still. Hell if it does get too hot I'll weld in a pipe and have the wash circulate via a pump and it may even get up to temp quicker :)) :)) :))

[Sam.]

I take it you were doing a quick strip Sam :))

Not at all :teasing-neener:

Found it here.

[RuddyCrazy]

Now talking with Linny the other night in the pub we talked about packed section and he mentioned the carter head. Now as my build is still in pieces and I can get a 4" tee-piece I'm now starting to wonder what Mac would charge for the setup ( ie: for the 2 valves). My original idea is to make a door on the packed section where a basket can be placed after the fores and heads have gone thru and just ramp the RC to the max while the change is happening.

I do like to think out of the box and this being my first real major challenge making a 2 way still does sound the go afterall got a heap of copper here and know where to get more even cheaper.

Out of beer and now sipping strawberry/ UJ liquor

[RuddyCrazy]

G'day Guy's,
A bit more progress today, Got the first plate done to size and drill for the PC. 5 off 1/2" copper for the vapour. Also started on the RC and got the first easy flange done and soft soldered, now I did find 4" is so much easier to hammer over than 3" which I'm glad is is all done. Now with 4" seeming so esy to hammer I am now thinking of going a modular design and hang the expense of a few extra tri clover clamps :)) :)) :))

On sunday my mates came around and I asked them about a SS 2 to 4" adaptor as I have the flanges here already. My mate said no worries and handed back my flanges and said i'll have next weekend for you and also that 3 to 3/4" SS reducer. He's also gonig to try and find some tri clover clamps for me too.

Got a few of the parts sitting in citric acid over night and hopefully tomorrow they will be nice and clean and ready to solder together.

Now I did buy some perf plates off Mac and being 107mm diameter looks like they made for a modular design, now with an easy flange each side and the perf plate in the middle along with 2 gaskets would that make it too wide for the tri clover clamp ?????

Cheers Bryan

[MacStill]

The plates sit inside the ridge of our custom seals, but you guys doing easy flanges need to seal a different way somehow.

You can see the plate takes the space where the inner part of our custom seals has been removed.

DSC_0017.JPG

DSC_0012.JPG

[RuddyCrazy]

Thanks for that Mac,
On thinking what I may have to do is machine the OD down to 98mm so it's a neat fit in the 4" tube then cut the 4" say 1/2" long cut slit it it then solder it in just below the easy flange. That way the perf plate will have a solid seat and be easily removed for cleaning or taking out depending on the run.

Cheers Bryan

[RuddyCrazy]

G'day Guy's,
Got a tad more done on the still today and made the PC, 3" X 500mm long with 5 off 1/2" pipes in the guts.




Here's a pic of one end and still need file the mating face fully flat and nearly there with it.



Final pic of the shotgun



Cheers Bryan

[TheMechwarrior]

Great work Bryan! :handgestures-thumbupleft:

It's normal practice to install baffles on the water side of your shell and tube heat exchanger to improve performance, however I do like your twisted tube approach. Shame you couldn't show it off with a clear shell :-D

Great stuff, keep the copper pics coming.