Hotanddry Neutralizer Build

[Hotanddry]

Hi Guys

After reading the forum for the last couple of weeks I have been inspired to upgrade and build my own 4" Neutralizer for neutral spirits/vodkas.

The build.
5 4" T with 3" Sight glass 150 mm long
perforated bubble plate with 3/4" DC with 1" caps on the bottom. The DC will stick out the top of the perforated plate by 25 mm.
500mm packed section. Stainless scrubbers
150mm Reflux Condenser with 5 3/4" tube
500mm Product Condenser with 6 1/2" tubes
boiler 50ltr stainless keg with 2 2kw elements.

I am about ready to start the build but I still have a couple of questions I am hoping someone will be able to help with.

1. I am going to use a 50ltr keg as my boiler with two 2kw elements then once up to temp I will switch one off. I know most people run 2.4kw elements with controllers plugged in. So my question is will one 2kw element be enough to run the still or will i need the 2.4kw?

2. I have seen a couple of builds with a 4" spaced between the boiler and the first T section And I have also seen it where the T section is put straight on to the boiler. does it matter?

3. With the packed section do u need any plates to hold the packing in or do u just stuff it in tight?

Thanks Guys any Advice welcome.

[P3T3rPan]

150mm is a bit long for the reflux condenser
Mine is only 100mm long and is a little unresponsive (slow to react to changes)
Some people are saying that 80mm is probably a better length
SS scrubies probably don't need a retainer plate but if you want to use something like scoria you will definitely need a plate with a small amount of ss scrubie on it to stop it falling through

[newbiboozer]

Hi mate I think the elements will be fine. I would shorten the RC up mine is 4" high and I would make it shorter if I could. I run a plate with 8mm holes below the packing. I went half inch DCs with 3/4 cups with 3/4 to 1/2 at the top as Mac recommended. I went the spacer at the base of the column below the first section I think it helps to prevent puking and gets the bottom DC up out of the boiler.

[Hotanddry]

Thanks Guys for the pointers. I will be making a couple of changes to the design before I start. Hopefully I will pick up my copper this weekend and I will be on my way. Will post a couple of pics along the way.

[Andy]

:text-woo: pics. good luck with the build!

[Hotanddry]

OK guys i have started my build. How square do the ends of each section need to be? I used a 4" copper tube cutter and it's close but it is a little bit out will it matter once I start stacking them up on top of each other? Or does he seal and the tri clamps take care of this problem?

[P3T3rPan]

Dead square is best. Makes everything else much easier

[Hotanddry]

Thanks. After 2 hrs with a grinder, square and sand paper I have them dead square.

Also a big thanks to Mac for the quick shipping of my parts. Now I can really get stuck in to the build.

Biggest problem is I only get a half hr a day to build it now that I have done everything I can do at home.

Good things come to those who wait.

[Sam.]

Good things come to those who wait.

Very true for many facets in this hobby, you will get there mate :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Smbjk]

Thanks. After 2 hrs with a grinder, square and sand paper I have them dead square.

Also a big thanks to Mac for the quick shipping of my parts. Now I can really get stuck in to the build.

Biggest problem is I only get a half hr a day to build it now that I have done everything I can do at home.

Good things come to those who wait.

Sounds like your doing a great job mate.....but how would we know.......no pics? :teasing-neener: help us out buddy

[crow]

yes put a plate or grate in the bottom of your reflux module. What ever packing you use the last thing you need is it dropping out on your top plate mid run. The grate will allow you to ram what ever packing down to what ever density you want without the bullshit of having to twist it in to adjust the density :-B

[Hotanddry]

2014-06-05 21.33.27.jpg

I will upload more photos tomorrow as I have to retake them because they are to large to upload.

[Urrazeb]

2014-06-05 21.33.27.jpg

I will upload more photos tomorrow as I have to retake them because they are to large to upload.

Watching this build :handgestures-thumbupleft:

I just use an image resizer, it's free and fast :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Smbjk]

2014-06-05 21.33.27.jpg

I will upload more photos tomorrow as I have to retake them because they are to large to upload.

Watching this build :handgestures-thumbupleft:

I just use an image resizer, it's free and fast :handgestures-thumbupleft:

:text-+1:

[Hotanddry]

20140606_095841.jpg

Alright so here are my 4" easy flanges ready to be fitted and flattened.

20140606_100006.jpg

I here u can see my 5 150mm T section, 150mm boiler spacer l, 100mm RC and then a 500mm packed section

20140606_100030.jpg

This is the 150mm spacer I started with this as I have not brazed in many years so It didn't matter if I messed it up as I could always shorten it and make it again.

20140606_100059.jpg

This is the 2" 500mm long PC with 6 1/2" tubes. It still needs the 1/2" copper water pipe connections fitted and leak testing. Next to is part of the reducer for my parrot.

20140606_100211.jpg

The two end plated before the holes are fully drilled for the 3/4" pipes for the rc.

[Hotanddry]

20140606_100220.jpg

As u can see from the pic I was going to drill lots of holes as my mesh for the packed section to hold in the packing but I have decided I will cut out 4 slots 17 mm wide as marked by the black lines. It seems to be easier and will look better.

[Hotanddry]

Here is a quick update.

20140617_123108.jpg

So I have finished this 4" to 2" adaptor till I test for leaks and then polish it.

20140617_123130.jpg

The parrot is partly complete. Need to chase down a couple of parts still to finish it off.

Do any people in Adelaide have a 50ltr stainless steel beer keg for sale?

Also I am wondering how people attach their 3" SGK ferrule to their copper column? I was planning and trying to hitting the ferrule in to a piece of 3" copper pipe but they measure the same size so I am not sure if it will work.
How have others attached theirs?

[MacStill]

To fit the SGK to copper I'd reckon an expanded copper joiner is you're best option, the SGK will slip fit & you shape the joiner to fit the column :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Nice build so far mate, hope you find a keg soon as it looks like you'll be needing it before long :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[dogbreath vodka]

Also I am wondering how people attach their 3" SGK ferrule to their copper column? I was planning and trying to hitting the ferrule in to a piece of 3" copper pipe but they measure the same size so I am not sure if it will work.
How have others attached theirs?

Why not make your own sight glasses fittings?
You can use 3" pipe, flanged at one end and cut to fit into the column.
It takes a bit of fiddling, but once you've cut the 3" column and fitted the flanged section in.... just give the pipe sticking into the column a bit of a tap with a hammer to flare it.
then you can solder it together.

All of that is easy to write... but trust me you will need to take your time and have some patience ... But... it will work.

viewtopic.php?f=36&t=4639
This is my 6" with a 4" sight glass flange... BUT ... using a drill press after having made the module is the easiest way of getting a decent fit. It keeps everything straight.

viewtopic.php?f=36&t=3001&start=40
This is a better thread.
Just a thought...

There are plenty of other builds in the plated column section to have a look at for inspiration. :handgestures-thumbupleft: :handgestures-thumbupleft: :handgestures-thumbupleft: :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Cheers
DBV

[dogbreath vodka]

Here's an even better one as it's a 3" with 3" sight glasses.

http://www.aussiedistiller.com.au/viewt ... =36&t=5725

DBV