The glass duck

[woodduck]

Well I've leak tested the wannabe boiler today and it seems to only leak around the old element fittings which I had planned on removing and capping of with plates anyway. So I might fordge ahead with cutting a 4" hole in the top for an bit of a look fingers crossed! :pray:

[woodduck]

Bit of a update for ya's.
I've cut the 4" hole in the top and cut out the old element fittings and the looks sturdy enough. All the parts I cut out were at least 1.5 mm thick the top and bottom seem very rigid. Theres just a couple of things that are bothering me, I'm worried that when I solder/tig the patches on the sides it my anneal the copper and make it less structuraly sound and the second thing is that inside the tank is all this build up of black crap. I don't know whether it's calcium or what. There's a good chance it's had bore water in it. Now I've tryed clr and hydrochloric acid and it hasn't moved it only way I've found to get rid of it is grinding but don't like that idea cause it's hard to get in for one but it will thin out my boiler aswell. Does anyone know anything about this stuff? And how to get rid of it? Or do I need to get rid of it, If acid won't move it will anything leach out during distilling?
Any thoughts?

[kickarum]

Hi Woody
I got an old hot water tank for my pot build just for the copper sheet, that black shit on the inside takes some moving. I cut the 2 ends off then cut her open at the seam, she was in perfect condition except one of the pipes had eaten away. The black shit made a perfect layout stain for scribing lines etc and after cutting each piece was cleaned up with a scourer but like I said really hard to move, wouldn't fancy trying to get it off while its in the tank, access and visuals would be a headache but I'm a lazy prick when it comes to polishing. Sorry to say but I think if you leave it there it will slowly come off in your charges, weather it would travel through to your finished product would be better answered by someone with more experience than me.
Kicka.

[woodduck]

Hi guy's
Well the boiler is on hold for the minute until I can work out what to do with it. I've put just about every type of acid and cleaning product in there but it just won't move that crap :angry-banghead: :angry-banghead: the funny thing is the only thing that looks like it might have done something was some dunder from my still the other night. That might be the key, either that or mabye get it soda blasted but is it worth it? Probably not.
So I've moved on to my plates. I've been thinking about these bubble caps alot over the last few nights while driving allover the country side (my mind wanders when I drive, probably not a good thing). I can't quite get my head around the theory. How much tolerance can you have with the design? I mean if my pipe sizing and slots in the caps aren't quite right will it be a dog to run? Is there a set rule for these things like the 8% wet plate theory for perf plates (I've tryed working out % ages and area for vapor flow etc but it's done my head in 8-} ) I can't seem to find much on bubble caps only a few larger singles. Have I missed some info somewhere? Quite possible I seem to lose myself and read the same pages a bit lol, if I have a point in the right direction would be great. I'm not trying to get any trade secrets here so hope I'm not stepping on any toes I just love the look of the caps.

So if all else fails perf plates it will be. Probably simpler for my intalect (my point exactly can't even get it close enough for spell check to work it out :laughing-rolling: ) any way.

Any input would be greatly apreciated.

Thanks the Duck

[flamehawk]

You have used every type of acid but have you tried an alkaline?

We don't know the ph of the water being used or what was deposited.

Try caustic soda. Gentle at first on test bits and see how it goes.

[kickarum]

Hi Woody
When I was in your place I backed away from the boiler because although in excelent condition the copper was only .5mm thick a bit thin in my opinion. If I was really keen on the copper boiler which i wasnt I'd cut it open on all the joins polish it up and refabricate the whole thing, no questions about solder content or internal crap. You wouldn't lose to much volume if you we're careful my calc 147L ATM. How thick is the copper? I'd get a good measurement on it you may be surprised. Hot water tanks are built to be a station system with a layer of protective insulation and an outer sheet metal skin, not the SS kegs we kick around the yard, but thats just my opinion. Good luck with whatever you decide. :handgestures-thumbupleft:
Cheers Kicka.

[dogbreath vodka]

Single bubble caps are easy to make, easy to run.
No need to over think this.

That is why so many of these are being made and no one is complaining about this or that issue.
The tolerances seem pretty good to me.

They are also faster to make than perforated plates.... but hey.... I'm biased as I am too lazy to make a perforated plate still "just for fun".... so I keep using the bubble caps instead. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Also toooo lazy to make multiple bubble caps when one will do the job.

That's just my opinion though.

DBV

[woodduck]

Thanks for the input guys.
I've shyed away from the copper boiler at the minute it's in the too hard basket.

I still like the multiple caps and think I've sussed them out, well hopefully enough lol. Worst part is all them 1"caps at $ 2.99 a pop get stuffed so I guess the old tig will be put to use to cap all those pipes, sounds as boring as drilling holes for perf plates lol.
Been pretty busy with work at the moment so haven't done much just cut some plates out of another hot water tank I had but think they might be a bit thin now I look at them, only 0.6mm so I've just cut some 2" and flattened it out but hard to get it real flat and looking nice without enealing. If i eneal it will it be any better/stronger than .6 that's not?
Also had my first go at an easy easy flange and hell I love this soft solder stuff, how easy so thanks mac both those tutorials are awesome. While I'm thanking mac, I got a package from 5star yesterday and very happy it all looks fantastic. Man Mrs mac sure lived up to her reputation as the bubble wrap queen. Stuffed if I could get it all back in the box.

So that's where I'm at.

[bt1]

They are also faster to make than perforated plates

Err, not sure here bout an hour per perf plate ain't bad can knock up all your plates before lunch..I also back drill the undersides with 3.5mm.

Wood, I'd avoid annealing plates I found they are way too soft afterwards to take any load. tried work hardening them but seems like a myth to me and never got a result using this method.

For 2mm sheet I soft solder the downcomers in as fast with as little heat as I can manage. There's no great tension on the plates but it is subject to twist due to the return bend & PC past your RC.

bt1

[woodduck]

Thanks bt
I found hammering them on a solid surface with a dead blow hammer(rubber one that rattles not bounces) has worked ok, they don't seem to be as soft. Also I didn't heat the pipe to red hot just enough to get the blueing that seemed to help also, wasn't quite as soft(not sure if that's possible but it made me feel better lol) I think the plates should be rigid enough, I'm going to have the rods as close to the glass as possible so hope that will minimize flexing. Was also thinking about some ss flanges to hold the seal in place aswell as a bit of strength.

[MacStill]

I could build 4 single bubble cap plates in around 2 hours or a bit less when I was making them, they are much less time consuming than perforated plates and that's just a plain simple fact :handgestures-thumbupleft:

The difference in performance, output & taste of product is negligible between the two types at the hobby level on such small stills too.

Where the main differences between the two lie is in the ease of use, bubble caps are like driving an automatic whereas perforated need to be driven and monitored more.

My preference of use is for bubble caps :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[woodduck]

Thanks Mac
That makes me want to build these caps even more. I can't see them being too hard. They won't be as flash as yours but they should look ok. If I just spent the money buying the caps they would be even easier but I'm a tight arse so I'll make the caps myself, no big deal.

[bt1]

I could build 4 single bubble cap plates in around 2 hours or a bit less when I was making them

That's a fair effort! Can I ask mac what sort of tools /kit did you use for cutting the slotted caps. I've always found only having basic kit that a hacksaw and later on a Dremel are fairly demanding in terms of time?

bt1

[Yummyrum]

I could build 4 single bubble cap plates in around 2 hours or a bit less when I was making them

That's a fair effort! Can I ask mac what sort of tools /kit did you use for cutting the slotted caps. I've always found only having basic kit that a hacksaw and later on a Dremel are fairly demanding in terms of time?

bt1

If I'm not mistaken , a 1mm cut off disc in an angle grinder ....but its a case of secure the angle grinder and feed the caps to it rather than secure the caps and apply the grinder ....and have a bucket of water handy to dip the caps to keep them cool

[MacStill]

yep!

yummy got in one :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Geez yummy you really have been paying attention havnt you :D

[bayshine]

and please be careful with them 1mm cutting disk as I've used a grinder at work for 25years with out incident and half cut my thumb of last year and now only have about 50% movement in it :law-policered:

[MacStill]

yeah definately position the grinder so it throws anything that could jam towards your feet, not the other way, and wear a good tight fitting pair of riggers gloves :handgestures-thumbupleft:

as with anything it'll only be as safe as you want it to be ;-)

[Zak Griffin]

Yup, I clamped my 5" grinder in the vice, and fed the caps to it...

12 x 2" caps, tooke me hours!

[woodduck]

Yer I look forward to it. And your right grinder safety is no laughing mater, I know cause I've been bitten a couple of times once even put me in the hospital with 26 stiches. Also know of a couple of guys that unfortunately didn't make it RIP. So no fucking around with grinders people.

[Yummyrum]

Yer I look forward to it. And your right grinder safety is no laughing mater, I know cause I've been bitten a couple of times once even put me in the hospital with 26 stiches. Also know of a couple of guys that unfortunately didn't make it RIP. So no fucking around with grinders people.

My old man always reminded me of his metal work teacher that lacquered over the blood stain on the floor in front of the grinding wheel as a reminder for students not to fuck with it .