Do's n Dont's for a 4" Eliminator or similar.

Perforated & bubble cap plated columns

Do's n Dont's for a 4" Eliminator or similar.

Postby Cheersbigears » Thu Sep 15, 2016 8:34 am

Hi All
:text-feedback:
Just looking for the best way to run a 4" Eliminator on a 50 Lt milk can, and what not to do. As well best way to clean and look after it and any other info you think I should have. :confusion-helpsos: I have read a little about 4" but not much, is there a good one or two or more threads in here to read.
I have only been playing with a T500 with TPW, I have been doing stripping and spirit runs plus cuts. I want to get into scotch/whiskeys and rum washes. I think I just do one run and slow with these but that all depends on the wash I think but I will look into each wash just looking at the running side at the moment please.

From what I have been reading have 2 x 2400w elements and get a controller for at least one?
Should I do a TPW just to clean it or I have some faints there maybe 5lts that would almost be the same av% after I fill it up? Or do I have to fill it?
What is the lowest level to run the can at least half or more so the elements have a good cover at the end of the run?
Do I just rinse it out with water if just doing a TPW and a full disassembly of unit if doing other washes and wash with what?
What to look for in the sight glasses and what I don't want to see?
When to stop the discharge and charge the still I think its called full refluxing for 10-15mins? This is the part that is new to me. :confusion-confused:

Any info or direction will be much appreciated thanks so I can hit the ground running. :animals-dogrun:

Cheers All :obscene-drinkingcheers:
Cheersbigears
 
Posts: 143
Joined: Sat May 07, 2016 1:43 pm
Location: Nth QLD
equipment: Built up to a FSD 4" Eliminator and a homemade boiler

Re: Do n Don'ts for a 4" Eliminator or similar.

Postby EziTasting » Thu Sep 15, 2016 8:56 am

:laughing-rolling: this brings back memories!

Initially it was recommended to me to wash all the parts with warm soapy water to get all the grime & oils off. Then it is understood that you do a vinegar run (50/50 vinegar to water), after that, to get rid of the vinegar, you do a sacrificial (or sac) run...

Later I read a post by Mac where he said the vinegar run is for the guys building their own stills... but I found it educational. And it can't hurt to give to copper bits a good clean anyway.
The Sac run is where I learned the most (initially) about my still and, because you aren't going to drink the product, it doesn't matter if you goof it up! It will also get the vinegar out of your still so your first run will be clean... and that's always a good thing!

As for running, there's a post on how to run a bubbler still, it is easy to understand and follow - read it. Print it out and have it with you until you get it! Then get a couple of runs under your belt (TPW is the cheapest I think) for practice! We've been running ours for 6 months now and are still learning, but it's more of a fine tuning to each different wash... Take shedloads of notes!!! It'll help finetuning!!!

As for cleaning - heaps of posts on here; in summary it's up to you! Your making high ABV alcohol, there's nothing that sterilizes better than that... Most rinse the still out without necessarily deconstructing it... Again, it's up to you. Have a go, have a look, if you think it needs cleaning, clean it. Rum tends to be dirtier and would need more cleaning attention!

Hope that helps.

EDIT: as for filling, make sure your elements are covered! Otherwise you get this orange glow in your boiler :oops: . Which could cost you a heating element! We generally use 2 X 2400W elements to get a boil going (and for stripping) then turn off the top element and run the rest of the spirit run on just the lower element. We don't have a controller; MK2, erm .. 3 will have different elements and I want a controller for that so I can variate (?? If that is a word??) anywhere between 1200,2400,3600 and 4800 watts...
EziTasting
 
Posts: 2084
Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2015 5:15 pm
Location: FNWA
equipment: Newbie - Keg Boiler & 4" 4 plate glasser

Re: Do n Don'ts for a 4" Eliminator or similar.

Postby EziTasting » Thu Sep 15, 2016 9:09 am

How to run a bubble plate still the easy way...

Kiwis still cleaning tutorial...

Kiwis guide to cuts...

This'll answer most of your questions.
EziTasting
 
Posts: 2084
Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2015 5:15 pm
Location: FNWA
equipment: Newbie - Keg Boiler & 4" 4 plate glasser

Re: Do n Don'ts for a 4" Eliminator or similar.

Postby rumdidlydum » Thu Sep 15, 2016 9:32 am

Great work ezi :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Also read the whole bubbler topic, you can pick up some handy tips.
rumdidlydum
 
Posts: 2619
Joined: Sun Oct 27, 2013 7:20 pm
Location: CQ
equipment: The infamous Illuminated chicken leg boiler, Rum glass and other bits and bobs

Re: Do n Don'ts for a 4" Eliminator or similar.

Postby Cheersbigears » Thu Sep 15, 2016 10:26 am

Cheers I have starting reading running a plated column I think I found some good threads. But all helps
Cheers
Cheersbigears
 
Posts: 143
Joined: Sat May 07, 2016 1:43 pm
Location: Nth QLD
equipment: Built up to a FSD 4" Eliminator and a homemade boiler

Re: Do n Don'ts for a 4" Eliminator or similar.

Postby WTDist » Thu Sep 15, 2016 10:39 am

Good info there.
3 will have different elements and I want a controller for that so I can variate (?? If that is a word??) anywhere between 1200,2400,3600 and 4800 watts...


This is also how i will operate mine. To elaborate on what Ezi is talking about (if its what i think it is) it is a easy thread to follow on wiring up the 1"BSP elements (not the weldless). If your wanting a controller and to have the welded elements than maybe have a look at this thread.

It is an easy way to control the power without an SSR or SCR but the power you can switch to is 600, 1200,1800,2400,3000,3600,4800 when wired up in parallel and series. Will be simple for your electrician to do or if you know how to wire up then good too :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Thread on this is here.
viewtopic.php?f=60&t=9351
WTDist
 
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2014 11:32 am
Location: Brisbane
equipment: Building a 4" bubbler with 8" glass thumper

Re: Do n Don'ts for a 4" Eliminator or similar.

Postby EziTasting » Thu Sep 15, 2016 11:08 am

WTDist wrote:...This is also how i will operate mine. To elaborate on what Ezi is talking about (if its what i think it is)...


In the immortal words of Yoda:"Read me like a book, you can!"

But, yes, the idea, I got from you!, and I like it!
EziTasting
 
Posts: 2084
Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2015 5:15 pm
Location: FNWA
equipment: Newbie - Keg Boiler & 4" 4 plate glasser

Re: Do n Don'ts for a 4" Eliminator or similar.

Postby Heef71 » Thu Sep 15, 2016 11:21 pm

@Ezitasting Nice work Ezi!!
Glad to see your passing on the wisdom :handgestures-thumbupleft:
Heef71
 
Posts: 57
Joined: Sat Mar 29, 2014 6:08 pm
Location: N.T.
equipment: 4" 5 plate glass modular bubbler with packed section on a keg with 2 x 2400W elements & power controller. Started with a T500 and made some mod's and added a 2nd lid with a copper pot head.

Re: Do's n Dont's for a 4" Eliminator or similar.

Postby wil » Fri Sep 16, 2016 4:20 pm

yeah all good stuff there my two bobs worth. one of the things I found a bit tricky initially was where the RC valve started making any real noticeable changes to take off rate. with mine I usually have the PC almost off (hardly any water flowing) & the RC flat out (max water) to get it refluxing well. when Im ready to start taking off I open the PC flat out that usually gets 1-2 drops a sec for taking off fores then the RC only starts making changes within the last 1/4 of a turn with mine but in that 1/4, small increments can make a big difference in take off rate, so with each small adjustment wait at least 90seconds to see result of rate before adjusting again otherwise you could get frustrated as I did.Just my experience lots of variables change each stills performance,washes,ambient temps,elevation, ambient water temps & flow rate etc.Have fun they are easy to operate & get good results quite quickly once you find out its character.
cheers
Wil
wil
 
Posts: 185
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2013 7:56 pm
Location: lake macquarie/newcastle
equipment: 4" FSD Blockhead Neutralizer on a 50L keg boiler with FSD 2400Watt element

Re: Do's n Dont's for a 4" Eliminator or similar.

Postby EziTasting » Fri Sep 16, 2016 8:04 pm

Good point Will,
Always wait after making changes to the RC valve, because it does take a moment before you actually see any changes!

Will, are you saying that your RC allows fumes to get thru? You said you get a few drops when you turn your PC on full... Unless I'm reading this wrong?!?! If this is the case, I'd be worried because it sounds like alcoholic fumes get thru... I'd consider that very dangerous... :scared-eek:
EziTasting
 
Posts: 2084
Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2015 5:15 pm
Location: FNWA
equipment: Newbie - Keg Boiler & 4" 4 plate glasser

Re: Do's n Dont's for a 4" Eliminator or similar.

Postby bluc » Fri Sep 16, 2016 8:19 pm

If your pc is on full and there is a few drops sounds like rc not knocking everything down ie full reflux, not that fumes are coming out pc, that would be bad..
On second read i get what your saying ezi that if pc is not getting cooling water and you think its in full reflux when its not then it could go pear shaped fast....
bluc
Site Donor
 
Posts: 8967
Joined: Tue Apr 14, 2015 5:47 pm
Location: sunshine coast
equipment: 2" pot with 2" shotty 400mm long 5x 1/2" on a t500 boiler.
50l keg boiler 4" still mount 4" sight glass 1" drain..
4 plate 4" bubbler, 600mm packed section

Re: Do's n Dont's for a 4" Eliminator or similar.

Postby Cheersbigears » Sat Sep 17, 2016 12:04 pm

Thanks All

I'm a lot less worried about getting the new still now after the few threads that people gave me very good reads. But I'm sure there will be still a lot of questions to be asked and trouble shoot myself.

Here is what I have found so far I will be doing from reading the threads above I hope I'm on the right track

-Wash all parts in warm soaping water to get all the oil off and then a diluted vinegar wash and dry so less marks on the outside.
-For looks and for less chance of leaks down the track I will be setting up the cooling water with the flexible steel lines with Ys and 1/2" gate valves on both the Product Condenser and the Reflux Condenser, with thread tape on all threads that don't have a rubber washer. The inlet water at the bottom for less chance of air in condensers and getting bubbles out that form so they work better. Coming from the T500 that's how I thought it would be like that had to check. Maybe down the track get a flow control on the RC 2lt/m if needed I think.
-A 100 kpa water regular as well as I'm sure someone will go to the toilet even though I'm going to be on mains water as even a small water loss will affect the still.
-I may get a regulator for one of the elements, but from reading I think it's always better to have more power so at least one element is at full power. I have read people have trouble as they try with not enough power especially at the start. Maybe one that can be controlled if needed for a little extra. 2 x 2400w elements for the 50lt.
-First run for my new 4" FSD I'm following Macs Cleaning thread as in above.
-Turn on the two elements and water at the same time I have read not later so you can control it better from the start.
-For a start I will have the PC water valve set about 1/2 or a little more and the RC water valve full open at the start and hold at full reflux for about 30 mins after getting to temp.
-When adjusting water leave it for at least 4-5 mins before touching the valve again or anything else or a little longer is better so the still has time to adjust itself or fill up from the adjustment.

Just a few things I have picked up on since may boiler crapped itself I was only dreaming of having one but a little rush on the set up and running side now. These few threads are very good and Im sure I will have a few questions in them soon.
Thanks to all again for the pointers

Cheersbigears
Cheersbigears
 
Posts: 143
Joined: Sat May 07, 2016 1:43 pm
Location: Nth QLD
equipment: Built up to a FSD 4" Eliminator and a homemade boiler

Re: Do's n Dont's for a 4" Eliminator or similar.

Postby jacobraven » Sat Sep 17, 2016 1:21 pm

Just practice ive had mine a few months now but being on 100 litre can Im not still as much as I use to. But every run is different rum bwko im not 100% impressed with my neutral atm but ill figure it out
jacobraven
 
Posts: 289
Joined: Wed May 20, 2015 6:05 pm
Location: NENSW
equipment: 100 Litre Milk Can
Neutralizer
2 2400w

Re: Do's n Dont's for a 4" Eliminator or similar.

Postby EziTasting » Sat Sep 17, 2016 6:44 pm

Hey CBE,

Good info collected, but the advice I've been given (repeatedly! :laughing-rolling: ) is "calm down and just have a go."

So, while I know what you're going thru (I've got 8months on you) build the still (after cleaning it), and do a vinegar run and THAT's when you'll get your first "Aha" moment, because you'll finally connect some of the dots that you've been reading about.

So now you feel like you've got it pegged... :laughing-rolling: (well I did) and so you get your sac run on. Suddenly it behaves completely differently to the vinegar run and you freak out; but you don't have to! I did anyway!

The sac run IS where you get your first feeling of HOW your rig will respond when you do a run. take notes!
You'll learn Moreno your second run, your third will start to confirm things you've picked up and noted and so on and so forth.

We have a 50L keg with 2 X 2400W heating elements and a 4 X 4" bubble plates. When we start a run, it's both elements on (don't have a controller) and then we have the water going into the RC unrestricted, PC is not getting water at this stage...
Once all plates are loaded (that's 'bubbling') i keep it there for an hour to ensure that the Fores are definitely in the first 250-300ml. Then I turn off the higher element (ours aren't side-by-side, one is higher than the other) and just run on the bottom one (full power!). I then turn on the power to a submersible pump that feeds the PC from a reservoir..
I then adjust the water to the RC until it gives me the flow rate I'm looking for (slow for foreshots - dripping, then faster for the rest - small stream). Any adjustments to the RC take a little while so wait until you see a change (not like me that was expecting instant changes and then keeps fiddling upsetting the whole thing! :doh: ), but I haven't yet had it affected by a toilet or a shower... :wtf:

Keep plugging along... but your right, there will be more questions to come because you don't even know WHAT to ask yet! Just wait until you think you know and suddenly nothing works anymore! Ferments suddenly don't work, can't get the ABV you used to get :teasing-blah: THATs when the fun starts! AND the learning...
EziTasting
 
Posts: 2084
Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2015 5:15 pm
Location: FNWA
equipment: Newbie - Keg Boiler & 4" 4 plate glasser

Re: Do's n Dont's for a 4" Eliminator or similar.

Postby Cheersbigears » Wed Sep 21, 2016 9:59 am

Thanks All
No more TPW. :razz:
I think the first wash I drink out of it will be Weetbix wash. Now I have a real still on order as Im after a scotch/whiskey (for a start anyway :D ) and after reading its a better vodka than the TPW and a better base to oak. As well from reading the TPW makes the still dirtier faster. So many things I want to try now BUT I know I will have to take my time and perfect the still first. Or it will be not much better than before if I rush it. This still will last me and have for a long long time, so many recipes and years make a few good drinks, and then some. May have to get another fermenter to get my stocks back up for so they have a little age and not straight out of the still(hehe more practice).
One day I will go into grains and barrels mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm the list is endless now :happy-partydance:

Thanks Ezi
I will keep it in reflux for an hour not the 30-40mins a thought.
And yes each wash is different and day to day temp change etc, etc but bring it on ... the next 4-6 weeks is going to be so long.
Cheersbigears
 
Posts: 143
Joined: Sat May 07, 2016 1:43 pm
Location: Nth QLD
equipment: Built up to a FSD 4" Eliminator and a homemade boiler

Re: Do's n Dont's for a 4" Eliminator or similar.

Postby Cheersbigears » Wed Sep 21, 2016 3:49 pm

sorry some that was for a different thread.
Cheersbigears
 
Posts: 143
Joined: Sat May 07, 2016 1:43 pm
Location: Nth QLD
equipment: Built up to a FSD 4" Eliminator and a homemade boiler

Re: Do's n Dont's for a 4" Eliminator or similar.

Postby EziTasting » Wed Sep 21, 2016 3:54 pm

Cheersbigears wrote:sorry some that was for a different thread.


:teasing-nutkick: so you're not thanking me?!?!? :teasing-neener: :laughing-rolling:
EziTasting
 
Posts: 2084
Joined: Fri Sep 25, 2015 5:15 pm
Location: FNWA
equipment: Newbie - Keg Boiler & 4" 4 plate glasser

Re: Do's n Dont's for a 4" Eliminator or similar.

Postby Cheersbigears » Thu Sep 22, 2016 8:20 am

:teasing-tease: yeah that bit was for you, maybe I shouldn't drink after nights a right stuff on here :laughing-rolling: :obscene-drinkingdrunk: :techie-typing: :obscene-drinkingchug:
or have another drink and read it again before I hit submit that would be better :laughing-rolling:
Cheersbigears
 
Posts: 143
Joined: Sat May 07, 2016 1:43 pm
Location: Nth QLD
equipment: Built up to a FSD 4" Eliminator and a homemade boiler

Re: Do's n Dont's for a 4" Eliminator or similar.

Postby bayshine » Thu Sep 22, 2016 1:38 pm

Ha ha I always preview when :obscene-drinkingdrunk: :techie-typing: :handgestures-thumbupleft:
bayshine
 
Posts: 873
Images: 0
Joined: Sat Mar 16, 2013 11:30 pm
Location: Turquoise coast dubbya aye
equipment: FSD 6 inch 5 plater block head On a FSD 100lt pro boiler
3” copper reducer bokka on a keg boiler

Re: Do's n Dont's for a 4" Eliminator or similar.

Postby Roger » Thu Sep 22, 2016 3:36 pm

All good advice and quite daunting if like me, you are coming from effectively a zero knowledge base.

I run mine outside so find the weather affects it quite a bit. Breezes are no good and the cold affects it differently. One day it will find a home inside...
Roger
 
Posts: 102
Joined: Thu Jul 03, 2014 10:11 pm
Location: Canberra
equipment: Still Spirits T500 Reflux Condenser and Boiler.
2" pot still for stripping runs.
FSD Neutraliser with 50 litre milk can boiler and gin caddy.

Next

Return to Plated Column Stills



Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 28 guests

x