Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Hi guys want to get some feed back as to the best method of drilling large holes in keg boilers. I have had some experience drilling Stainless Steel and Know that you need low rpm's and resonable pressure in the bit to cut effectifley ,If you drill to fast the bit will get hot turn blue and thats game over for that bit. And are these step drills any good for the purpose .Cheers :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Dremmel rotary tool is my preference for that kind of size. The step bits are a bitch to use.

plasma cutter and a die grinder :happy-partydance:

Industrial laser:

No mate, they aren't real good.

At least, you want a Bi-Metal holesaw (Bunnings $17), even better is a Tungsten Carbide Tipped holesaw. Also use some cutting fluid to help reduce the temperature, and keep it slow and hard like you said :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Brendan wrote:No mate, they aren't real good.

At least, you want a Bi-Metal holesaw (Bunnings $17), even better is a Tungsten Carbide Tipped holesaw. Also use some cutting fluid to help reduce the temperature, and keep it slow and hard like you said :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Thanks Brendan :handgestures-thumbupleft: That saves me buying that. These look good but pricey http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/32mm-dia-Tun ... 1522wt_803

but then cheaper than an industrial laser :teasing-neener:

The step bits are pretty handy for copper though, not totally useless. Stainless is just hard stuff.

This is what I purchased for drilling the hole for my weldless element. Well my dad drilled it, but either way, it was done in about 10-15secs. Quicker and easier than the step bit we used for my AG kettle.

http://www.renonation.com.au/dewalt-ext ... 257-dt8257

I Pushed the blue button again :D The ebay job above. I think it was the drilling pictures that did it ,but bought it for $27.20 from NSW ebay
I will let you lnow how i go. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

just dont push it 1 2 many times ok :teasing-neener:

you'll have more gear than me soon the way you're spending :clap:

MacStill wrote:just dont push it 1 2 many times ok :teasing-neener:

you'll have more gear than me soon the way you're spending :clap:

Yeh i Know i here you. But i have a realy good supplier thats very helpfull .It saves me driving around and time.
A plasma cutter would be fun. But more $$ and then you need to finish the hole , I hope this Bit works ok.

It'll work fine. Keg King sell the same bit for $29.95.

You can buy the Kingchrome ones for $16, and that from a shop in a small hick town run by the Mafia :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling: and they actually work :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Far out 12, that tungsten bit looks the shit. I just used a hole saw for mine but the key is to keep it cool at the last little bit. If its blued yr screwed. :handgestures-thumbdown:

Bushy wrote:Far out 12, that tungsten bit looks the shit. I just used a hole saw for mine but the key is to keep it cool at the last little bit. If its blued yr screwed. :handgestures-thumbdown:

Know what you mean mate I have blued more than enough bits , and if the stainless goes blue it hardens the stainless steel just to top off your day thats why i thought i would (hopefully get a decent one) don't want to be stuffing Up the good kegs I have. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Sorry to hijack the thread but if I've had a burner under my keg is it gunna be to hard to drill now?

Kingy : no, I wouldn't have thought so. You're not superheating it with the burner I assume, so it should be fine. That's based on my butchering a few kegs - others may have a different experience

All good mate good question. I would think you should be good to go unless you run it dry. And got the bottom of that keg red hot.

1 2many wrote:All good mate good question. I would think you should be good to go unless you run it dry. And got the bottom of that keg red hot.

I can get the bottom of my keg glowing red with a full charge ;-)

Not sure if it would make it any harder though? I doubt it :handgestures-thumbupleft:

It wont harden without carbon in the composition of the metal, 304 and 316 dont harden. 304 is hard as it is
It also has to go through a rapid temp decrease, ie, quenching for hardening to happen, otherwise it will just be tempered.
304 and 316 stainless both tend to crack when quenched. Non ferrous metals behave different to ferrous metals.

Either way, a hole saw made from hard carbon steel will be harder than stainless, therefore, it will cut it.

That said, I just use a packet of ACME portable holes, just like Wile E. Coyote had.
Cant get them from Bunnings, they are special.