Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Hi guys

Not sure if I should post this in the "beginners section", every other time I've started a post its been in the wrong section. :doh: so mods please move if there is a better spot for it.

So I'm getting ready to install two of the 5stars elements into a 50L keg. I've heard nothing but horror stories when drilling stainless, so am looking for advice and tool recommendation.

I was going to follow the general rule of
Drill slow, apply pressure, cutting fluid. Pilot hole + step drill to 32mm then file smooth. I just got a set of cheap step bits for $13 on eBay not sure how much luck I'll have with them, I didn't really want to go and spend a $100 on a drill bit either.

I don't have a dermal, drill press or oxy set so I think it will be drill bits, hole saws but not sure. So as I said above any brand recommendation, drill bits, tools and techniques would be great

Cheers

Jono

Mate, your spot on the money. I used a hole saw, but step bits work great too. And like you said, nice and slow, and don't let it get too hot.

:text-+1: on the hole saw.
You got it slow speed plenty of lube and have fun :D




I'm talking about drilling the boiler get your mind out of the gutter :teasing-tease:

I've found a dremel with the cutting disks the way to go....
I tried the hole-saw, slow-drill + keep cool worked for me once, but could not manage to do it again,
IDK maybe to impatient, too much pressure....but I can cut a hole with the dremel every time, really good for the 2 x 4" holes for the still / view port.
http://aussiedistiller.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=8870
So if the hole-saw doesn't work for you, and you can get your hands on a dremel, give it a go....

Thanks guys

What type of hole saw is everyone using, brand, retailer?
Darwin checked out your thread ^:)^ very impressed. You now have me thinking about mr squiggling the keg too, but that may have to wait till the next keg conversion.

Rumking wrote:Thanks guys

What type of hole saw is everyone using, brand, retailer?
Darwin checked out your thread ^:)^ very impressed. You now have me thinking about mr squiggling the keg too, but that may have to wait till the next keg conversion.

I used a Chinese tungsten toothed beauty with half dozen cutting teeth to cut a 40 mm hole to put a stainless electric urn element onto a stainless pot for beer water heating. Bit still looks like new. Can't remember the brand and its packed away in a movers truck at the moment but I got it off fleabag. Wasn't that expensive from memory and cut through stainless like butter. Looked at the prices on the ones at Bunnings and nearly fell over. $260 for 105mm!

Where is the hole best positioned .

I put mine as near to the bottom as practical....doing a spirit run can see the boiler get quite low before you hit the 20% output that I tend to pull the plug on...

Darwin award wrote:I put mine as near to the bottom as practical....doing a spirit run can see the boiler get quite low before you hit the 20% output that I tend to pull the plug on...

:text-+1:
There are a couple of ways you can go about it
1. one above the other
2. Side by side but one slightly higher to give you clearance between them
All in all lower the better because you won't want to burn them out if the level exposes one.
And do not let the touch ;-)

I'm looking for other round solution, would like to plug existing element holes :laughing-rolling:

In the proces of upgrading boiler and would like to use old one as feints storage vessel or something.. But cannot think of easy way to plug holes after removing elements, and I mean easy/cheap way as oppose to for example weld in ferrules and clamp them - would cost same or more than new kegking one :angry-banghead:

Selena piece of stainless over the top? :think:

Edit: Selena? That was supposed to be welding :laughing-rolling:

If you go to a hyd fitting specialist and get a stainless steel straight bsb plug and a nut to suit. Then you just need a seal, the vwola hole sealed :handgestures-thumbupleft

Or cut 2 stainless steel disc's, it would need to be more than 2mm thick, drill a hole in both for a stainless steel bolt to pull the discs toghether and clamp over the hole with a seal.
:think:

so you say I can find that kind of bsb plug - similar we use for fitting valve - one from boat shops - but solid without hole in it ? that would be a dream! will have a look where I can find close by hydraulic spec shop..

on other note, can i use silicone bake shits to cut seal from? I mean I do use silicone bungs etc.. but here it would be in direct contact with 90abv for long period?

and those bake shits of silicone always in bright colors, so I recon they might have some other chemicals in it - to color it up, is it safe or not for this application?

Silicone o-rings can be had for about $1 or less each from ebay, or maybe mac might be able to help you out.

Any industrial supply shop should be able to get you some bspp fittings.
Be probably looking for a "bulkhead" fitting and a cap to suit.

dunno bout bake shits, wouldn't they leave an off flavor in the spirit? :laughing-rolling: