Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Hey
Even though I have not TIG welded for years (and than some) I made a SS boiler out of two SS cylinders but for some reason the factory welding on them was not SS. So before they rust etc Im joining almost two kegs together to get about the 80lt so I can have no worries of fitting a 60-65 Lt rum wash in and have room for puking.
Last time I welded all fittings etc before joining the two cylinders and other things I was more worried about the two going together for the best fit. This time different elements set up side by side not at 90 to each other, and at the back out of the way. 4" mount, 4" fill pot and a 2" sight glass so I don't have to remove it all the time to fill etc.
Any other pointers anyone can see or I should do yes I can upgrade a port to 6in later if a broom doesn't clean it good enough but thats extra height, as I have a 1"ss ball valve drain at the bottom it will be tall.

Awesome cool workboots to :teasing-tease: :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Maybe some legs for the boiler :D

:text-+1: With Rum,I used three 90" elbows on mine gave better stability and allowed space for the drain.cheers hillzabilly ;-)

Danger! Danger! Will Robinson!

Yeah just a little easier to do most of the polishing with out the legs in the way. Im looking at 4 legs with end plates and 16mm bolts for adjustments.

Three legs is more stable than four :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Looking good!

Ok for that they would have to be out wider than the four legs yes. A 4" neutralizer is going on top how far out do others put there legs?? (on the boiler that is) (wash boiler) no try again the still boiler. The 4 legs on the other aren't out too much, if that's the best way that it is. Is it still 1/3s or back two slightly closer and say 200mm out from the keg.

Just put on as many legs as you want so its easy to adjust.
Once the boiler is full its going to take a fair effort to tip it over.
Again remember you are not constantly moving the still during operation.

Most floors are relatively level so as long as you have the range of adjustment to overcome your stilling areas unevenness (its a word because my auto correct says so) your all good.

3 would cost less but i like 4 for symmetry.

Yeah ok good as on the one at the moment it has 4 and very stable and yes since the first time I turned it on it has not moved. My time does not cost much so I will stick with for.

The people with the shiny boilers do you have trouble keeping it clean or is it easier being shiny to clean. I'm just seeing if I keep polishing or leave it there I do all molasses to WBAB and don't want to spend all the time polishing if in months it will look like shit.

Just a cleaning run and Im off again, and try the new packed section out as well.

That boiler!!!! ^:)^
She shined up real nice!!

That turned out "sweet as" as our Kiwi bros say,it's a boiler ya should be proud of and it will last a lifetime,and will cover its cost in a very short time as mine did,happy stillin mate.cheers hillzabilly :handgestures-thumbupleft:

nice and shiny :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Wow, that shined up really nicely. Well done mate.

Cheers,
Prof. Green.

Yeah in was a lot easier and faster than I thought too. About 5-6 hours but a lot nicer to look at.

Excellent work there mate fantastic boiler. :music-deathmetal:

Cheersbigears wrote:Yeah in was a lot easier and faster than I thought too. About 5-6 hours but a lot nicer to look at.

was it ruff and old looking before you polished it? what polish method did you use?

Yeah one was very old looking and the other not so much. I gave all welds a good SS wire brush and than got a Black and Decker electric variable speed buff from super cheap $139 and got a Velcro pad for it as well and some 400 grit sand paper I think it was but what ever was the lowest grade they had to get the nicks and sharp edges under control. As well scotch pads for it the scotch grey and purple worked the best. One of them are the same grit anyway but left less marks and the other I think is about 800 grit. With the pads I used a little all metal polish as well after that a got a black foam pad with the polish and wash it every lap around. All up buff, pads. polish etc cost around $210 so not to bad I think. There is the basic stuff I did but if you go and ask around how to polish your SS fuel tank etc you will be lead in the right direction. So after the build I now have a tig hand piece and a buff for other projects.