80 ltr, 6000w Boiler Project

[stubbydrainer]

I am building myself a new 80 litre boiler that's got 6000w shuved up its arse, via a 2400w & a 3600w elements :lol: ,with a controller to keep a steady eye on things,
I thought I might share the build with you lot. :-D
this build is basically 3 parallel builds at the same time , so progress is very slow and is probably going to take a while to complete, so be patient with me OK
the first part of the build , or the part that has soaked up a lot of the time so far is the controller, It loosely based on Swede's controller
I owe a few favours to the electronics tecky that lives down the road now, who has kept me on the straight and narrow and kept this controller safe, Coz I'm a bit of a petrol head , I get a bit carried away sometimes and thought someone with a big stick close would be handy :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling:
here's the wiring diagram for it ( I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN AND THIS IS A CONCEPT THAT IS NOT PROVEN AND AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR WHAT OTHERS DO WITH THIS INFORMATION)
Enjoy the ride 8-)

There is a 12 v computer fan running of the 12v PSU that has been added after scanning it in
this all goes into a gutted computer frame

once I had all the switch gear I set to working out where everything had to go and mount it in
the pencil line above the switches is where I'm scalpin' the box


To Be Cont.
cheers

[stubbydrainer]

Another parralel line to this build is the boiler itself, Its based on the ol'18 gal keg, so 60 ltr wash's no probs

I got the keg a while back and now it time to tinker with it, I got the grinder with a cutting disc on ot and cut the handles off, I don't want them on there, coz where it going to end up is the other parralel part of this build , don't worry I'll get to that later :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling: . Basically its just insulating the keg, and a tablely thingo :? , but it'll be at the end.

once the handles where gone, the 9" hole was marked out and then taken out with a grinder , I got an old belted up 50 ltr keg and cut the arse out the same way but this is 300mm dia, and a 100mm hole in it for the connector

The convex shape of the 2 kegs is so close to being the same it going to make sealing this top easy, especially with the 4mm silicon sheet/gasket that twat face so kindly gave me, thx BD :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling: ( when ya name changes again v.idiot,cupcake,passion fingers , I'll up date it here :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling: )

to be continued

Cheers

[stubbydrainer]

a few more pic's of the controller layout


I can take all the switchs and stuff out of the box now and cut it down, make a lid for it give it a paint job, put it all back together again and set to wiring it up. :dance: :dance: :?
back soon

cheers

[MacStill]

Looks awesome Draino, I'll be following this thread with interest :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Rumdrinker]

Awesome stuff SD, just as I'm about to start piecing together a twin element, adjustable boiler you start this thread. And all to great detail as well so no confusion at all, top job mate & very much appreciated.
I too will be closely following this thread.
Cheers

[Panda]

I would recommend separating the 3 relays as much as possible. How they are now they will absorb each others heat and struggle to dissipate heat, drastically reducing their lifespan. Especially the middle one.

[Modernity]

I agree with Panda. :handgestures-thumbupleft:
You could how ever place a aluminium plate as a divider between them and direct your fan to move the airflow up and instead of across the top of all three. An easy fix?
my two cents worth :teasing-tease:

[stubbydrainer]

for all you worried electricians out there, I had an electrician sort out what was needed to connect this project to the shed welders 35 amp circuit, The controller is hard wired into this circuit. So everything is to "standard" and above board

[stubbydrainer]

Thanks Panda n Mod ,
I'll take that on board and remedy if you think theres gunna be a heat problem , I wanna nip it in the bud now ! :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[stubbydrainer]

this is the 3rd and last parallel bit to this build

The keg insulation and tabley gadgetty thingo
First grab yaself an ol'beer barrel, big enough so it can be dismantled and rebuilt with a 18 gall ss keg inside it :pray: :pray: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance:

Knock a band of it , grab the belt sander and give it a bit of curry



I wanted to know what the wood grain was like , beautiful :dance:


to be continued

cheers

[MacStill]

Hmmmmm :think:

Being that it's in a computer box, I wonder if Stig could build these for us..... in his spare time :text-lol:

[stubbydrainer]

well Mac,
he is good with computers ah !, I spoze we will see how good, wadda ya reckon he'd say if someone asked? :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling:

[MacStill]

With his work load right now I know exactly what he'd say ;-) ;-)

Doesnt mean winding him up would be any less fun though :laughing-rolling:

[Modernity]

Just as a matter of interest?

What would the power usage cost of 6000 watts of heating element be over the whole 80ltr run? :think:

[maheel]

Just as a matter of interest?

What would the power usage cost of 6000 watts of heating element be over the whole 80ltr run? :think:

@ 23 cents per KWH it's going to cost $1.38 (per hour) (6 x .23) to run the boiler
plus maybe 10 cents and hour for the a pump ? (depends on watts)

23 cents per KWH is what i pay

[Panda]

Was going to post about $1.20 to $1.40 per hour. Maheel beat me to it

[eminiM]

Just as a matter of interest?

What would the power usage cost of 6000 watts of heating element be over the whole 80ltr run? :think:

@ 23 cents per KWH it's going to cost $1.38 (per hour) (6 x .23) to run the boiler
plus maybe 10 cents and hour for the a pump ? (depends on watts)

23 cents per KWH is what i pay

Dang, we were put on "Time of use" billing in November to try and level out consumption and reduce peak periods. Our highest cost period is 12.8 cents per KWH. Lowest is 7 cents and I was outraged when they introduced it. Lots of hydro generation where I am. In fact our local utility has an over abundance of generating capacity and exports to the grid.
To add insult to injury my brother just installed 10KW of solar panels on his roof. The utilities have agreed to pay 82 cents per KWH for energy added to the grid from solar power. Can imagine my utility bills will be increased to cover his subsidized ass.






GuessI'mGettin'ABargainEminiM

[Kimbo]

Sounds like someone's gunna be runnin their 6kw boiler at midnight- off peak :angry-banghead:

[stubbydrainer]

The way I planned it is both the 3600w & the 2400w elements are used to bring the wash to temp, the 2400w element will be turned off ( and not come back on at all for the rest of the run) )at a preset temp. via the alarm circuit in the PID, it will only run the 3600w element holding the preset temp. automatically from that point on, then I have the option of running it manually from the PWM circuit in the controller. thats the plan anyway :geek: .....it ain't goin yet :? :? :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling:

[stubbydrainer]

here is an update on the controller for the interested,
after pulling it all to bits again, cutting the box down to size, making a lid and reinforcing the bottom with a piece of 1.2mm sheet steel, giving it a sand down and a few coats of paint, then re-installing the switch gear, it was time for joining all the bits together with copper wire,
I asked a few questions about a few details in the wiring and the electronics tech.( that lives up the road ) came for a visit and gave me a hand to wire the box and to change out a capacitor on the PWM circuit board to reduce the SSR used in that function from overheating. As advised by Swede ( thanks Swede for your assistance, you have been a champion :handgestures-thumbupleft: )
this is what it looks like at the moment :shock: :shock: :? :?


It has all been tested and works as per the plan ;-)


to give you a run down of the front panel :geek:
starting from the top left
red light indicating that power is on at the wall isolator, a big red emergency shutdown button, red light that indicates the controller is switched on ( via big red "panic " button ), PWM control, ( a type of throttle controlfor the 3600w element, for the uninitiated :laughing-rolling: ) and last on the top is the 2400w manual override/ on-off switch
bottom from left
P.I.D controller for 3600w element heat up/automatic temp holding and alarm function ( used to turn off 2400w element once a preset temp is reached ( it doesn't come back on ), next is the, PID control (auto) - off - PWM control selector , a green light indicating 3600w element on/off, green light indicating 2400w element on/off
below the PID are the temp sensor terminals, the power outlets for each element,green lights and switches above them are all lined up vertically ( fuck.... I think thats right :think: , If its wrong can someone let me know :laughing-rolling: :laughing-rolling: )

All I have to do now to complete the controller is zip tie up all the wiring to make it all neat and tidy !
now I have to turn my attention to the boiler itself ( when time allows :angry-banghead: )
to be continued

cheers