Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Hi guys,

As it is I have a 3/4" ss skin fitting with a 3/4" ss tap attached directly to that. Its not very practical because it makes the boiler way higher than it needs to be.

My plan is to get some legs with castors welded on shortly so I need change the way its plumbed up.

I want to go from the skin fitting to a 90° elbow then a pipe about 7 to 8" long that I could put the tap on. This way the tap will be kinda horizontal now.

where can I buy a 3/4" x 8" ss nipple fitting?
Or can I just use some kind of water pipe?
Thanks

Hi Stretch
Mate mine set up the way you want yours I welded some nipples to SS pipe you could easily use the threaded brass extensions that you can buy at Bunnings to extend the tap out. Also I have my boiler on a dolly just a piece of form ply with castors screwed to the bottom you can adjust the height to clear the tap cheap and easy :handgestures-thumbupleft:

I'm not sure how your boiler is set up, but we had ours upside down and utilised the 2" bung to attach our drain.
Our boiler sits fairly high, but it was designed that way to get a 20L bucket under it for emptying.

From our build thread:

RS_Gav wrote:Boiler drain tap made up with from a FSD 2" blank welded to a a 90deg.




Boiler legs welded in place onto a keg we purchased half complete

REAL NICE!

Thanks goose, I didn't think of welding nipples to some pipe :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Huggy, I drain mine with a hose attached to the tap to the garden. I kinda want the tap to be sitting just outside the rim of the keg if you know what I mean. The boiler will be less than 10" off the ground so I kind of don't really want the tap underneath.

This is what i did if it helps.

I did the same, i just cut and welded fittings.

I have keg envy 8-}

Woodduck, that's pretty much what I'm trying to achieve but with fittings ideally because my mate that can tig weld is working interstate at the moment

You could buy the elbow with threads then poke the male thread through a hole in the bottom of the keg and use a part of a female fitting cut short to use as a nut,would only need to be 5 or so mm long, then use a ss washer and a silicon baking sheet as a seal. Only problem will be that the fitting may stick up a bit and not be flush with the bottom so it won't drain completely. Did any of that make sense? Following? I can do a picture if you need? I have seen short bits of ss pipe with threads on each end that can extend out to your tap or if your really stuck i have seen all thread pipe but only in brass but you might be able to get it in ss.

This may be ok for a temporary fix untill your mate gets back then he can just weld the fitting into your keg.

Hope this helped.

Good luck :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Thanks woodduck,
This is the fitting I already have in there.
I'll be able to get a 3/4" elbow easy, it's just the bit that goes to the tap.
I might for the time being just get some threaded brass pipe like you said. I'll try to either get the ss nipple or I'd prob be happy even with 3/4" ss threaded pipe like you said.
Thanks for the tips :handgestures-thumbupleft:

having a tap underneath and not protruding is great when on castors as there is nothing to catch when moving.

threads are level wit the outside edge for easy access and a hose is attached to drain ( the beauty of split level house)



I have had a drain that protruded and was forever catching when I moved it around.

Some wooden bling :handgestures-thumbupleft:

That is some serious wooden bling!
Is that stainless pipe underneath?

stretch69 wrote:That is some serious wooden bling!

:text-imwithstupid:

Seriously impressive boiler shroud, the best I've seen yet :handgestures-thumbupleft:

thank guys
yep stainless keg and stainless pipe. the woods just a heat shield and some bling can see more in my welcome thread viewtopic.php?f=3&t=6973

I had seen some designs with a nipple on the side of the keg for a drain point, but you cant completely drain the whole thing. A fellow distiller has the same problem with a bought milk can boiler.
I cut off the 2" flange where the spear goes, flipped my keg upside down, and welded on a 2' to 3/4' right angle reducer, screwed in a 150mm length of 3/4" s/s pipe, attached a 3/4" ball valve and a 3/4" right angle to direct the flow down.
My keg also sits on 4 x 3" casters to aid mobility and to raise it off floor level. It works great.
When doing neutrals the boiler is on the floor, when doing rums the boiler sits on a wooden box if made up so I can get a bucket underneath to collect the dunder.