Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Potable are you getting weld less elements?

If so the hole size is 32mm, but I suggest not to cut the holes until you get the elements because you need to stack one over the other so they don't meet in the middle.

You need to be careful not to put the hole to close to the raised ring on the boiler otherwise you will have problems doing up the nut. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Muppet wrote:

HillsJester wrote:$16.95 from FSD. Just need the original nut from T500 and then clamp away (clamp not included)
http://www.5stardistilling.net/adapter-t500/

Thats to attach a different still to a t500 boiler, Hes trying to attach a T500 to a keg boiler

Pretty sure I've got a threaded ferrule here that would allow that, I think (without the nuts) this could work

http://www.5stardistilling.net/t500-adapter/ :think:

1 2many wrote:Potable are you getting weld less elements?

If so the hole size is 32mm, but I suggest not to cut the holes until you get the elements because you need to stack one over the other so they don't meet in the middle.

You need to be careful not to put the hole to close to the raised ring on the boiler otherwise you will have problems doing up the nut. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Hey 1 2 many ... Nah was going to get the kit with guard and ferrule for $100 each of Mac gotta get other ferrules welded anyway. Never really need to worry bout leaks then I guess. What do u recommend ?

Let's stay on topic please guys happy to talk to you about t500 adapters and stuff but on a differnt thread maybe or pm me

:text-thankyoublue:

Potable wrote:... Nah was going to get the kit with guard and ferrule for $100 each of Mac gotta get other ferrules welded anyway.

I went this way, the few times I've taken my elements out to give the keg a real good clean it's just a matter of undoing a tri clamp :handgestures-thumbupleft:

tipsy wrote:

Potable wrote:... Nah was going to get the kit with guard and ferrule for $100 each of Mac gotta get other ferrules welded anyway.

I went this way, the few times I've taken my elements out to give the keg a real good clean it's just a matter of undoing a tri clamp :handgestures-thumbupleft:

That's what I was thinking tipsy. Trying to keep everything modular clamp style the same as the modular pot/ bubbler I'll be getting. You never know what you can use those ferrules attachment from in the future :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Potable wrote:
2.Placement of elements side or back, and how far apart ( some info in electrical/elements in this forum but not to answer my question .
:

I placed my elements directly under my fill port. This is the one thing I would change on my boiler if I was doing it again so that I don't risk pouring wash onto the elements if I spill some. My advice is to put your elements on the side (probably the side opposite where you will collect on) so you can access them but they aren't in the way.

Make sure that the elements are as low as possible to reduce the volume required to cover them. It is possible to get the ferrules mounted almost parallel so that you don't need to stack them vertically.

Just my thoughts,

Cheers,

Richard

Potable wrote:

tipsy wrote:

Potable wrote:... Nah was going to get the kit with guard and ferrule for $100 each of Mac gotta get other ferrules welded anyway.

I went this way, the few times I've taken my elements out to give the keg a real good clean it's just a matter of undoing a tri clamp :handgestures-thumbupleft:

That's what I was thinking tipsy. Trying to keep everything modular clamp style the same as the modular pot/ bubbler I'll be getting. You never know what you can use those ferrules attachment from in the future :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Yep that's the way I did it, no need to stack elements it's just a bit of fun grinding the ferules to the right shape to splay the elements apart.

And I put my elements in from the back of the boiler that way they are out of the way and less likely to get any split wash running down onto the elements. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

#####UPDATE#####
Thnx fellas for all the input.


So been in contact with mr and mrs Mac and must say the service so far has been awsome :handgestures-thumbupleft:

So that being said this is what I'm going with on the boiler

4" inch still mount
4" try clamp sight glass/ filler port (on top front of keg)
2 x 2400w elements with guard ( side by side at rear )
2" inch butterfly drain valve ( bottom front )
3" dial thermo try clamp kit (on top right hand side)
1x voltage regulated with amp gauge to run one element real slow on spirit runs 2 elements for heat up

Picking up gear next week can't wait and will post pics next week some time
:music-deathmetal: :happy-partydance:

Sounds like a good plan mate, but the only thing I think you should consider since you are going the hole hog

Is to have a bottom drain rather than a side one, you won't regret it. ;-)

I have a side drain on my boiler and its a pain in the ass bottom drain would be much better

Was thinking that guys but means it needs legs. I guess moving around 1/4 to half full would be a pain in the ass..... :think:
I guess this bitch is growing legs and a bottom drain then. Maybe same valve and a extra 2" ferrule and 2" 90 degree bent pipe to the front with valve on the end.

Sound good ?

1 2many wrote:Sounds like a good plan mate, but the only thing I think you should consider since you are going the hole hog

Is to have a bottom drain rather than a side one, you won't regret it. ;-)

Don't go under an inch for a drain if you're like me... painfully slow
:laughing-rolling:

This is my 1" drain it empty's in less than a minute. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

I forgot Macs element guard you can just screw in the elbow. ;-)

1 2many wrote:This is my 1" drain it empty's in less than a minute. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Drain setuo %28Copy%29.jpg

Nice I have some thinking to do :think:

This should do the trick :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Gotta keep it pimped out :D

Turn the keg upside down and put legs on it and you'll have a 2" tri clamp centre drain, then weld you 4" still mount on the other end :handgestures-thumbupleft:

MacStill wrote:Turn the keg upside down and put legs on it and you'll have a 2" tri clamp centre drain, then weld you 4" still mount on the other end :handgestures-thumbupleft:

:text-+1: spot on. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

I was thinking that Mac but I already cut the top lip of but that might look ok anyway and make room for the valve :handgestures-thumbupleft:

This thing is gonna be pimped out for sure not much of the budget left. Need to ask a mate with a tig welder a favour :pray:

I might have to add them to my list Mac :handgestures-thumbupleft:
I'll shoot of an email Tomorrow to confirm anyway