Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

So what with the shiny new Neutralizer ordered, it would have seemed a pity to bolt it up to my manky old Keg...
and to prove that I'm not completely lazy, figured I'd give it a go...So after plenty of reading, I've decided on a
Mr squiggle keg..(It's upside down miss Jane...!) so I can use the 2" to drain the keg in situ...yeah..the lazy thing again :smile: ..
I'm not enjoying toteing hot and half-full kegs in and out anymore.
a 4" still port, 4" fillport, 2x weld less elements + guards ect ect ect......So here's where I'm up to in picky format:

here's the bottom, valve to go, I'm thinking of mounting the valve flush with the 2" base, then rigging up an extension for the handle..
got 2x element guards and a 15amp element on order (FSD) and I'm thinking of some surplus high-temp insulation packing under a nice Jarrah
finnish....well some wood round it anyways, lets see how it goes. so there it is...nothing new here, but what the heck...I do like the swivel temp gauge..
no need to get off me chair to see the temp! :smile: ....also got a 4" sight glass arrangement to go with the filler port on order. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Awesome mate looking forward to seeing your build.

I love the inverted keg design it drains fast and complete keep the pics coming. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Watching with interest!
I have 2 kegs, one for a boiler and one for a still...
It was suggested to me to do the up-side-down config, so I can't wait to see how you go!
All the best... And, yes, please please keep the pics coming!

It always amazes me what some people with a little time and patience can build.
Looks great! :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Did some more today, bit of cloud cover, so it's actually possible get outside today :smile:
Drilled the 32 mill hole, I tried with plenty of water to use the holesaw (I've done this before, no problem..)
but managed to flog out two of em!....bah. I went back to the dremel, it's how I cut the 4" ports anyways,
lots of small slices round the inside, punch out the centre, then tidy up with a flapper. Works quite well

So, element hole No1, the 2400W lower, to be linked up to my controller, thing is, I like to run somewhat less than full,
I never get puking but I will admit to burning an element dry.... :handgestures-thumbdown:
So, I figure if I deflect the element towards the bottom, that will minimize me stuffing up and
burning another element and it'll also make mounting the upper hi-power element easier, as it'll have more seperation from the lower element.
So, against my first instinct ( lazy) of just bolting the element up and bending it....Yeah, that would have been a bust I reckon...
I made up a bolt 2 nuts and 2 big washers as below....

Bolt it up, wack the heck out of it...thread on a stong-bar...stand on it ect ect....anyways, the idea is to bend the Keg round
the element port till the element is where I want it....here's a view up the Kegs clacker-hole, you can see the element ~2 inches in

Huh, whaddaya know? It worked...Hope it doesn't foul with the element guards I've got on order...
Anyways, more polishing, a bit more cutting...another element hole, my drain-valve setup and wood cover to go!
I know...why polish when I'm insulating? sod off...go ask sensible questions elsewhere :laughing-rolling:

Lol awesome :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Darwin that looks really good.

When I drilled out the holes for the weldless elements for my boiler I was mindful of avoiding/not getting to close to the ridge that goes around the boiler, given that the section of the element guard that screws on to the element and holds it in place may touch that ridge and affect the tightness of the seal. Hope it doesn't in your case.

Cheers

Shiftynev wrote:Darwin that looks really good.

When I drilled out the holes for the weldless elements for my boiler I was mindful of avoiding/not getting to close to the ridge that goes around the boiler, given that the section of the element guard that screws on to the element and holds it in place may touch that ridge and affect the tightness of the seal. Hope it doesn't in your case.

Cheers

actually checked that the bolt could rotate freely before I cut,
but that brings another thought to mind....could the s-steel be hardened near that bottom weld...?

Bottom weld??? I thought these were weldless elements.

Shiftynev wrote:Bottom weld??? I thought these were weldless elements.

Bottom weld on the keg.....and indeed weld less elements.

hey guys, an update...

next time I wouldn't flip the keg! Mr squiggle is all well and good, but there isn't room between the "ribbing bands" that goes round the keg for the weldless element guards... Id still want a bottom drain, but a 3/4 inch valve should do it, no need to bother with the 2", but my goodness, it drains quick!...Other problem I've got is with the neutralizer and an admittedly, low ceiling..the five plates and packing yeah, it'll fit on a standard keg, but put a drain on or jack it up and plan for a skylight in my instance :laughing-rolling: