rumdidlydum control

[rumdidlydum]

PIDs are great and can be used for many functions. although I have found that they are better for control items rather than heating elements.
EG. For mashing. element is on ( uncontrolled) in a HERMS, the PID controls mash flow and hence mash temp via solenoid/proportional valve, variable speed pump etc. I was thinking of circulating hot water through the mash and the hot water temp regulated. Will that not work?i was looking at linnys build and thought that the boiler could do the work and circulate it.

It is fairly easy to wire an element though the PID with an element only bypass allowing you to have PID controlled element, or element on full functions, if your after a single vessel mash controller and secondary element that may be the go ( depending on the PID you should also have full power control too. probably PWM)

[color=#FF0000]Does the pid not give the element full power if the set temp is miles away from actual temp :think: just trying to work out the process and any flaws. I'll have a look at pwm controllers and coils but they are most likly above my price range.
Much appreciated meat :-D

[rumdidlydum]

Hey rum another dumb question :oops:
that trip switch i linked to couple posts up can they be wired direct or do I have to buy a "caddy" that it slots into that can be wired. It has a din rail profile so thinking i dont need anything else besides a rail to mount to. Just making sure i have everything before i get it all wired up btw im not the one putting it together..

No idea what a caddy is :think: or what you mean by direct. Are you talking about wiring in the rcd to your controller? Glad you are getting help mate i dont want your hose burning down then your missus throwing you out because some bloke on a forum gave you advice on a controller.
But seriously it has to be 100% and get it tested. No shortcuts no she will be right :-B
Good luck buddy :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[bluc]

yea the rcd .By caddy i meant like a meter box the trip switchs just click into place dont have to run wire to them. Wondering how you run wire direct to them. just for my own info like i said someone way brighter than me is putting it together just curious and making sure i have the right stuff :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[rumdidlydum]

yea the rcd .By caddy i meant like a meter box the trip switchs just click into place dont have to run wire to them. i have no idea mate i only have the screw terminal ones.Wondering how you run wire direct to them. just for my own info like i said someone way brighter than me is putting it together just curious and making sure i have the right stuff :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Meatheadinc]

PIDs are great and can be used for many functions. although I have found that they are better for control items rather than heating elements.
EG. For mashing. element is on ( uncontrolled) in a HERMS, the PID controls mash flow and hence mash temp via solenoid/proportional valve, variable speed pump etc. I was thinking of circulating hot water through the mash and the hot water temp regulated. Will that not work?i was looking at linnys build and thought that the boiler could do the work and circulate it.

It is fairly easy to wire an element though the PID with an element only bypass allowing you to have PID controlled element, or element on full functions, if your after a single vessel mash controller and secondary element that may be the go ( depending on the PID you should also have full power control too. probably PWM)

[color=#FF0000]Does the pid not give the element full power if the set temp is miles away from actual temp :think: just trying to work out the process and any flaws. I'll have a look at pwm controllers and coils but they are most likly above my price range.
Much appreciated meat :-D

There is many was to skin a cat. Running water through your mash will work

[Triangle]

yea the rcd .By caddy i meant like a meter box the trip switchs just click into place dont have to run wire to them. Wondering how you run wire direct to them. just for my own info like i said someone way brighter than me is putting it together just curious and making sure i have the right stuff :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Me thinks you are asking too many DIY questions....... ;-)

Get your sparky to buy the RCD/CB gear. Firstly the warranty and workmanship falls upon him/wholesaler. If you buy it to save $20 and it shits itself, you pay for the sparky to remove/replace etc. Secondly I would not trust half that electrical garbage that is available online and through bunnings.

[bluc]

yea the rcd .By caddy i meant like a meter box the trip switchs just click into place dont have to run wire to them. Wondering how you run wire direct to them. just for my own info like i said someone way brighter than me is putting it together just curious and making sure i have the right stuff :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Me thinks you are asking too many DIY questions....... ;-)

Get your sparky to buy the RCD/CB gear. Firstly the warranty and workmanship falls upon him/wholesaler. If you buy it to save $20 and it shits itself, you pay for the sparky to remove/replace etc. Secondly I would not trust half that electrical garbage that is available online and through bunnings.

So dont ask questions and dont worry about how it works and get someone else to do it .. well i guess thats one way to get it done... ;-) personally i would prefer to ask questions know how things work and buy things myself rather than get ripped off blind.. but thats just me and if you had seen earlier I posted that im not putting it together i was told to buy the stuff by a friend and a they will assemble it for me no offence intended just my opinion :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[MacStill]

Bluc,

With all due respect you're probably better off starting your own thread instead of derailing this one ;-)

Cheers,

Mac.

[bluc]

Ok point taken cheers mac :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[rumdidlydum]

Yahoo finaly got my pid :dance:
I dont even have to mod it . Their is no mechanicle relay :music-deathmetal:
1 down side manual in chinese or something. Ill have to hit up old mate google. :-B

[rumdidlydum]

All wired up double checked and power on then trip goe the rcd...
Double checked again tested then triped rcd ffs.
Thanks mad for the easy fix. :handgestures-thumbupleft:
Works like a dream holding temp just have to sort out a couple of leaks. Bonus of doing a water run..
I just need to work out how to program the garage door again :angry-banghead:
Ps the wayer lines are temporary.

[Mad]

lol you won't forget it next time tho :)

lol couldn't get away from the garage reprogram :violin: haha that's funny :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) :)) i hate my door just as much

[WTDist]

Hey rummy i was talkin to the in-law about these controls and mentioned how you had the circuit breaker and we agreed i should incorporate it into mine also. 3 kids so safety is a high priority.

anyway would this DETA 16A Plug-In Circuit Breaker one do the job in mine? couldn't quite make out the writing on yours in the pics but saw it was 16A. its running on a 10Amp switch as im renting

Cheers
WTD

[WTDist]

just checked my power switches outside at the meter box. looks like they are 16A also? had C16 on them and were Clipsal so i figure they will be the same

[rumdidlydum]

Looks to me it would work. Mad can tell you he is the sparky around here :D

[Mad]

hey WT.

i'll clarify i'm still an apprentice so you should still be seeking an electricians advice. however i will say that incorporating a breaker into your control box if at all will at least give you a closer place to reset it in the case of a over current fault and hopefully protect any of the house wiring further on also. it wont wotk if the fault is to ground, that will still trip at the safety switch in your swithbox outside. if you are concerned for your kids I would ask your sparky to incorporate an RCD and not a breaker but as I said earlier there will be (should by law) 1 in your switchboard outside.

ALSO in my limited experience the bunnings DETA brand is budget at best - is that what you want when your talking about the risks of electricity? I would at the very least advice to buy the HPM brand from bunnings for about $3 more lol

I'm sure there are other sparkys on the site that can further my advice or agree disagree with anything I've said.

[rumdidlydum]

Just to report on the pid works well controlling a 2400w element on heat up and during a striping run. Combined with another 2400w element controlled by a ssr on full.
Alc flowing about 78c pid set to 110 and the temp ever so slightly rising as i take off jar after jar :D
Only downside is the parrot is bobing a little but i can live with that on a stripping run. I figure on a spirit run less power less alc flow :think: soon find out :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[rumdidlydum]

hey WT.

i'll clarify i'm still an apprentice so you should still be seeking an electricians advice. however i will say that incorporating a breaker into your control box if at all will at least give you a closer place to reset it in the case of a over current fault and hopefully protect any of the house wiring further on also. it wont wotk if the fault is to ground, that will still trip at the safety switch in your swithbox outside. if you are concerned for your kids I would ask your sparky to incorporate an RCD and not a breaker but as I said earlier there will be (should by law) 1 in your switchboard outside.

ALSO in my limited experience the bunnings DETA brand is budget at best - is that what you want when your talking about the risks of electricity? I would at the very least advice to buy the HPM brand from bunnings for about $3 more lol

I'm sure there are other sparkys on the site that can further my advice or agree disagree with anything I've said.

Thats why you are the sparky and im the grease monkey :D

[Mad]

dangerous team lol