Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Professor Green wrote:I would be concerned about those screw terminals on the back. The possibility for live wires working their way lose or breaking off is very real as there is no strain relief for the cables.

Cheers,
Prof. Green.

Good point Professor. Think i will make a plate up and replace the wire using glands.



Would adding and earth be, just connecting the two earth wires (in and out) with a bolt on the box. Going to get it all tested before use. But would like to finish it myself, if possible.

Yes. Join the two earths and make sure all metal enclosures/parts are eathed :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Looks like the case is powder coated, you might need to srape some of the powder coating of around the earth hole to make sure you get a good electrical connection.

Cheers,
Prof. Green.

:text-+1:
And use "shake proof washers" or "star washers"
Diferent names, same thing :handgestures-thumbupleft:

I will second the concern about live wires breaking away from screw terminals.
Just yesterday the vehicle hoist at work was not working properly, after a bit of investigation it turns out that not only did someone smash the limit switch at the top of the stroke but this was because a wire had broken off inside the control box and it was not receiving the stop signal to then engage the locks.

And this happened inside a box that does not get moved around and is exposed to no vibration or pulling.

Picked up to run a 2200 w heating element easy to connect up

I brought the 4000watt version with fan off eBay. It works well, I put mine in a box with a safety switch for added protection.

Good points made by Prof. Green.

From my experience......that Chint CB has to go for something better quality. I end up replacing these all the time among a couple of brands.

I took PeterC's advice and received some IEC C19 and C20 plugs and sockets today for the power cables from RS Components.

Finalllly got around to getting mine out of the box last night. I attached a 240v plug socket to the back of the box and re-routed the power out cables to the socket. Fired it up with my boiler, all good :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Here's a pic of the mod. I've ordered the other plug and socket as per Amfarmoras suggestion :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Received my controller today but it is not working correctly. On regulates voltage between approx 200 - 240v. Wont go below 200 volts tested with a multimeter :angry-banghead:

Possible its a bung potentiometer that needs replacing? Anyone else have theirs go below 200v?

Well Im a goose.

Works fine if you have the element plugged in. I was only bench testing it :)

Sure you were... :shhh:

I've been running my bubbler tonight on a vinegar run. My shed smells like a chip shop and I've found a few leaks with steam coming out of some connections which is a good thing I suppose before the sac run. I'm running a 3000w element on a 10a circuit and through trial and error (overloading the circuit breaker and stumbling around in the dark) I've found that my control box runs ok set at 150-160V. All good with this controller so far, it's not even getting hot. Good enough to keep the boiler going. I'm in the process of getting a 30A upgrade to the shed :handgestures-thumbupleft:

If you do get the power upgraded to handle 3000 watts just make sure all the connections and wiring for your box and boiler are up to the job. I run a 10000 watt box but all the wiring is only 10 amp so max is 2400 watts element.

Blew the fuse this arvo early on in my second run. No spare fuses so pulled the lid off an bypassed the fuse. I figure I'm running a Clipsal safety switch at the main so don't need one anyway. Right or wrong? :think:

I'm no rocket surgeon man but that sounds like a bad idea.

Lowie wrote:Blew the fuse this arvo early on in my second run. No spare fuses so pulled the lid off an bypassed the fuse. I figure I'm running a Clipsal safety switch at the main so don't need one anyway. Right or wrong? :think:

Fuses in equipment are designed to either protect the wiring or components in that equipment, depending on the type of fuse.

The safety switch is to protect against an active to earth (or neutral to earth as does occur) condition. It won't protect against an active to neutral fault or an overloaded circuit unless the condition has become so drastic the insulation has broken down and produced a fault to earth.

Lowie wrote:Blew the fuse this arvo early on in my second run. No spare fuses so pulled the lid off an bypassed the fuse. I figure I'm running a Clipsal safety switch at the main so don't need one anyway. Right or wrong? :think:

The fuse is the protection for that individual circuit and is there to prevent any part of that circuit from catching on fire. Even if the saftey switch is connected to that circuit it will do nothing to prevent a circuit overheating and catching on fire without the fuse or circuit breaker. Fusewire packs cost less than $10.00 and everyone with fuses should have one in their switchboard.