Is this any good as a controller?

[Petulance]

Maybe you sparky-types can answer this.

I found this on the Jarcar website after searching fruitlessly for an already assembled controller.

I have 2 2400 watt elements (from Mac). I want to control one of them.

Do you recon this will do the job?

this is the link : http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=MP3800

possible controller.jpg

[punchy21]

Sorry mate that is 240V input and a variable 0-24VDC output...

[Petulance]

ahh .... bugger

[Beerfridge]

i use one of these ,they seem alright hasnt gone up in a puff of smoke yet :)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1PCS-4000W-S ... 015&_uhb=1

[thegoose]

:text-+1:
Beerfridge I have the same and has been great 12 months and no problems
Have it wired up by a sparky in a box bobs your uncle

[flamehawk]

That looks like a nice unit there beer fridge. Think I'll be taking one of those should mine not work out.

Wish I had seen that earlier

Perhaps someone could start a sticky with possible options in it

[mickiboi]

Try these.

http://www.www.5stardistilling.com.au.com/store/product ... 54984.html

I have used lots of these to control commercial boiler output temperatures, room heaters, my aquarium, air conditioning compressors and soon my still boiler and ferment tank temperatures. Very cheap and never had one fail. They can be used in manual mode to set the output at say 80% or in auto mode where the PWM output is adjusted to keep the temperature constant. You can get them in relay output, analogue output (4-20mA/0-10VDC) or PWM to run a SSR. Different size temperature probes are available, 4" etc.

This is a good supplier too, I have ordered lots from him and never had a problem. As always get an electrician to wire it up for you if you aren't electrical/control savvy.

Mick

[Beerfridge]

just curious what the wattage rating is on that unit ?

[mickiboi]

just curious what the wattage rating is on that unit ?

40 Amps. 10 Amps = roughly 2400 watts so 40A = 9600W. Always use a heatsink on SSR.

[mickiboi]

If anyone is interested I built this for a friend years ago.

Theory of operation

1. Close power switch. Power Light ON. Power applied to LLC1 (Liquid Level Control 1).
2. If boiler is full R2 energised, if boiler is empty R3 energised. Only one of these can be energised at one time.
3. Boiler is full, R3 energised, boiler Full Lamp ON. Power is now available at START push button. C1 energised via Low Level Relay R3 being de-energised. Power available at SSR. Heater enabled lamp ON.
4. To start the system Push START button, power applied to R1. R1 is held energised permanently via self-holding contact in series with itself and the closed R3 contact. Power applied to TC1 and TC2. Temperature control now running. Heater lamp ON. SSR should be on 100%. TC2 valve should be fully closed.
5. Boiler will now heat up. As the boiler temperature increases above setpoint (SV) on TC1, the output of the PWM on the SSR will decrease to maintain the set value. This is reverse acting temperature control (RA). The temperature in the column now starts to rise. Depending on what the setpoint is on TC2 will determine what the 2 way valve position will be. TC2 is Direct Acting (DA), as the temperature goes above the setpoint the output will increase opening the valve allowing cooling water to flow through the condenser keeping the temperature constant. The more the temperature goes up the more cooling water will flow through the condenser.
6. You can change the boiler temperature or the condenser temperature independently of each other.
7. Should the boiler level drop too low R2 will de-energise and R3 will energise, Boiler Full Lamp will go off and Boiler Empty Lamp will be ON. C1 will de-energise and R1 will de-energise as R3 breaks this self-holding circuit. All temperature controls lose power shutting the system down.
8. To stop push the STOP button. This breaks the circuit to R1. Note that power is still available to the SSR as the boiler Low Level has not energised but the power to the temperature controllers is removed.

Remember these are PID controllers so the output will never be proprtional to the proportional band set in the controller. You may at different times have different output levels for the same setpoints.

As usual if you have no electrical or controls experience then GET SOMEONE THAT DOES HAVE build it for you. Shouldn't cost anymore than about 200 in parts.

[L'ambeq]

Thats perfect!

[mickiboi]

I have just found out they no longer make either of the temperature controller models in my drawing. So use these instead. Wiring remains the same.

http://www.www.5stardistilling.com.au.com/store/group/S ... 89279.html for the valve control.

and this

http://www.www.5stardistilling.com.au.com/store/product ... 84090.html for the heater control.

Both of these can be set for either RA or DA. Sestos make good products, I have used their timers before and never had any problems.

New drawing attached.

Mick

[5 o'clock]

Ok so I have bought these from eBay

image.jpg

And this box from Bunnings.

image.jpg

My plan is for two independent circuits. I will mount things on the front panel of the box and place an internal divider in the box to keep fingers away from things that might hurt me. The rest of the box will be to store the extension cords in.

Do I need a solid state relay for each circuit as well (what do they do?) and a cooling fan for the box?

Once I have all the goods I will take it to my sparkie for him to put it together.

Appreciate any thoughts you can all add.

Cheers,

Richard

[punchy21]

Its up to you how you want to run it. Most use 2 elements for start up only then switch one off once up to temp. So assuming you have 2400W elements then you probably don't "need" 2 SSR's. You can keep one as a spare?

I noticed you have an emergency stop switch also, just check it is rated for the load you intend to use it on. If you are using a contactor/relay then it will be fine, but if you are using 3600W elements then just make sure its rated for 15A or it may just weld itself closed. Your sparky should be all over it though... :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[5 o'clock]

Thanks Punchy

[APR]

My plan is for two independent circuits. I will mount things on the front panel of the box and place an internal divider in the box to keep fingers away from things that might hurt me. The rest of the box will be to store the extension cords in.
Appreciate any thoughts you can all add.
Cheers,
Richard

G'Day Richard, If you run two independent circuits with each circuit designed to be able to draw 10 amp, I assume you will use two feed in power leads, each with a 10 amp male plug on the end. Is this correct?

[5 o'clock]

Hi Apr,

That is exactly what I was planning, two leads in and out with independent control over each just mounted in the same box.

Richard

[Chips Molasses]

i use one of these ,they seem alright hasnt gone up in a puff of smoke yet :)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1PCS-4000W-S ... 015&_uhb=1

I just ordered one of these. Next to find a suitable element......

[APR]

Next to find a suitable element......

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/300992473948

[MacStill]

Next to find a suitable element......

http://www.5stardistilling.net/boiler-accessories/

;-)