Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

Meatheadinc wrote:PIDs are great and can be used for many functions. although I have found that they are better for control items rather than heating elements.
EG. For mashing. element is on ( uncontrolled) in a HERMS, the PID controls mash flow and hence mash temp via solenoid/proportional valve, variable speed pump etc. I was thinking of circulating hot water through the mash and the hot water temp regulated. Will that not work?i was looking at linnys build and thought that the boiler could do the work and circulate it.

It is fairly easy to wire an element though the PID with an element only bypass allowing you to have PID controlled element, or element on full functions, if your after a single vessel mash controller and secondary element that may be the go ( depending on the PID you should also have full power control too. probably PWM)

bluc wrote:Hey rum another dumb question :oops:
that trip switch i linked to couple posts up can they be wired direct or do I have to buy a "caddy" that it slots into that can be wired. It has a din rail profile so thinking i dont need anything else besides a rail to mount to. Just making sure i have everything before i get it all wired up btw im not the one putting it together..

bluc wrote:yea the rcd .By caddy i meant like a meter box the trip switchs just click into place dont have to run wire to them. i have no idea mate i only have the screw terminal ones.Wondering how you run wire direct to them. just for my own info like i said someone way brighter than me is putting it together just curious and making sure i have the right stuff :handgestures-thumbupleft:

rumdidlydum wrote:

Meatheadinc wrote:PIDs are great and can be used for many functions. although I have found that they are better for control items rather than heating elements.
EG. For mashing. element is on ( uncontrolled) in a HERMS, the PID controls mash flow and hence mash temp via solenoid/proportional valve, variable speed pump etc. I was thinking of circulating hot water through the mash and the hot water temp regulated. Will that not work?i was looking at linnys build and thought that the boiler could do the work and circulate it.

It is fairly easy to wire an element though the PID with an element only bypass allowing you to have PID controlled element, or element on full functions, if your after a single vessel mash controller and secondary element that may be the go ( depending on the PID you should also have full power control too. probably PWM)

[color=#FF0000]Does the pid not give the element full power if the set temp is miles away from actual temp :think: just trying to work out the process and any flaws. I'll have a look at pwm controllers and coils but they are most likly above my price range.
Much appreciated meat :-D

bluc wrote:yea the rcd .By caddy i meant like a meter box the trip switchs just click into place dont have to run wire to them. Wondering how you run wire direct to them. just for my own info like i said someone way brighter than me is putting it together just curious and making sure i have the right stuff :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Triangle wrote:

bluc wrote:yea the rcd .By caddy i meant like a meter box the trip switchs just click into place dont have to run wire to them. Wondering how you run wire direct to them. just for my own info like i said someone way brighter than me is putting it together just curious and making sure i have the right stuff :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Me thinks you are asking too many DIY questions....... ;-)

Get your sparky to buy the RCD/CB gear. Firstly the warranty and workmanship falls upon him/wholesaler. If you buy it to save $20 and it shits itself, you pay for the sparky to remove/replace etc. Secondly I would not trust half that electrical garbage that is available online and through bunnings.

Mad wrote:hey WT.

i'll clarify i'm still an apprentice so you should still be seeking an electricians advice. however i will say that incorporating a breaker into your control box if at all will at least give you a closer place to reset it in the case of a over current fault and hopefully protect any of the house wiring further on also. it wont wotk if the fault is to ground, that will still trip at the safety switch in your swithbox outside. if you are concerned for your kids I would ask your sparky to incorporate an RCD and not a breaker but as I said earlier there will be (should by law) 1 in your switchboard outside.

ALSO in my limited experience the bunnings DETA brand is budget at best - is that what you want when your talking about the risks of electricity? I would at the very least advice to buy the HPM brand from bunnings for about $3 more lol

I'm sure there are other sparkys on the site that can further my advice or agree disagree with anything I've said.