Building a controller

[Atreu]

Hi all,

I'm looking to build (read: get built for me) a controller for my second element so I can increase the takeoff speed when I'm using an inline thumper. After reading most of the posts here, I'm going to go with Punchys build... I'm going to get a licensed electrician to put it all together, as I have no (and I mean NO) knowledge when it comes to electricity, and no desire to die, or burn my house down...

This is going to sound stupid, but, what are the names of the parts that are in Punchys build? I can see the picture, but I wasn't kidding when I said I have no knowledge of anything electrical. Could someone help me put together a shopping list, so I can get the parts to give to the electrician I get to build this, to keep my costs down?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated. :text-thankyoublue:

[rumdidlydum]

Solid state relay (ssr) take note of the resistance ie 500k
Pot rated at 500k or matched to ssr
Heat sync. What you mount the ssr to
Pc fan to keep everything cool. 12v one you will need a component to reduce 240v to 12v. Or get a 240v fan.
Digital or analog volt /amp meter (optional)
A box to mount everything in metal is perfect plastic you need to run a lot more earths to all 240v components.
Take note i am not a leccy. I just have understanding of basic components.
Good luck :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[rumdidlydum]

And a circuit breaker

[andybear]

with the ssr, it should have the letters -VA after it, an example is SSR-40VA. If you get the ssr-40DA :angry-banghead: you will need to have a variable voltage input to give you the control. The 40 is the maximum amps it can handle.
And the 500k pot (resistance potentiometer) is probably not easily available. Well I couldn't find one, but you can get 470k ohm pots easily. It will need to have a 2 watt rating also.
With the heat sink, there are heat sinks available to match the ssr's size but you can also find heat sinks in old computers. Its just an aluminium finned mount to allow heat to be dispersed from the SSR. You may be able to recycle a fan from the old pc too, but you will need a power supply to run it. I'm gunna use a redundant Nokia phone charger for my pc fan.
I hope this info helped not added confusion.
Good luck

[Atreu]

Thanks Rumdiddly!

Just a few questions for the retarded though...

What is a pot?

The component to reduce 240 to 12v, what do I even type into Google for that? I built a HTPC last year, and have a 120mm fan left over from the build... Will this do?

I like the idea of an analouge meter, and I think if I can find some sort of ammo box, that would look sweet. As for all the wires and shit (technical terms only, gentlemen), is it better to go the heavier (thicker?) stuff? If so, what sort of instructions should I give the sparkie - or will that just piss him off?

[Atreu]

Sorry guys, I sat on that post a bit to long while writing it, and now can't edit it...

Thank-you all, I'll start piecing it all together! :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Doubleuj]

I bought these two items ages ago before I knew anything about this stuff ( :laughing-rolling: like I know anything now!! :laughing-rolling: )
I just followed a link from an old thread and pressed purchase. don't remember what thread it was now.
are they going to be ok to use as a controller for my 2400w element? :pray: :pray:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4000W-High-Power-SCR-Electronic-Volt-Regulator-Speed-Controller-AC-220V-Shell-/181228222375?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AC-LCD-Digital-Ammeter-Voltmeter-Panel-Amp-Volt-Meter-50A-300V-110-120-220-240V-/351054521380?

[rumdidlydum]

They will work a few people are running that setup.
Make sure you wire the meter the right way unlike my lesson

[Doubleuj]

Cheers Rum, ill just get my sparky mate to look at it all, inc these posts, ill just supply the materials, and the beer.
thanks for the shopping list btw, was exactly what I was after in your controller thread, perhaps you should cut/ paste it into your now that I think of it, it is a good thread to follow.

[bluc]

And a circuit breaker

Is this the right circuit breaker to use on a standard power point? 2000w boiler..
http://www.bunnings.com.au/deta-10amp-residual-circuit-breaker-with-overload-_p4330893

[rumdidlydum]

10 will be fine. Go 15 if you think you will ever upgrade :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Atreu]

Rum,

Another dumb question: is the pot the dial you turn to lower or raise the amount of electricity?

Man, I feel stupid with some of these questions, but at least I'm learning!

[bluc]

Yes it is it varies the voltage the ssr puts out
:handgestures-thumbupleft:

[rumdidlydum]

Haha all good mate. We all are learning things till we kick the bucket.
Yeah the pot adjusts a signal voltge from the ssr back to the ssr to increase or decrease current. Think of a water tap the ssr and your hand that adjusts the tap is the pot. One way increases and the other decreases. your hand is controlling the tap. Make sense? :-D
Also when you buy a pot make sure you get the right size and type of knob for it.

[Triangle]

And a circuit breaker

Is this the right circuit breaker to use on a standard power point? 2000w boiler..
http://www.bunnings.com.au/deta-10amp-residual-circuit-breaker-with-overload-_p4330893

That's an RCBO. RCD and overcurrent protection (CB) in one module. If it's going into a control box, a CB is not really needed it's more a matter of convenience though I doubt discrimination between a MSB breaker and control box is going to work.

If you want it for RCD protection then it is a good idea especially if your supply doesn't have one or you are using it at more than one location where RCD protection possibly isn't fitted.

[bluc]

Is rcd earth leakage ie power going to ground?

[Triangle]

Is rcd earth leakage ie power going to ground?

Sort of, it what most would know as a 'safety switch'. Measures the difference between phase and neutral current which should = 0 when there is no fault. When there is an imbalance, ie current flowing through active is greater than neutral due to an active-earth fault (ie you touch a metal enclosure that has a bare active wire touching it so the circuit flows through your body) the RCD or RCD part of the RCBO will 'trip' within 300ms and below 30mA of fault current. This should prevent heart fibrilation. There used to be an earth leakage (ELCB) device but not as common anymore.

The RCD only protects from this type of fault. Normal A-N load current and faults due to short circuit A-N still need a circuit breaker or the RCBO which does both.

[Atreu]

Hi all,

Just throwing it out there...

I'm doing my head in with this; I'd happily pay someone to make one of these up for me, if you're a licensed sparky.

I'll buy a metal ammo box (I want it to look good), and send it to you, if you can get the rest of the stuff to get this fucking thing done, assembled and finished (and SAFE).

I've looked at quite a few sites, seen a lot of shit that LOOKS like its the right thing, but with a random letter here or there that I've got no goddamn idea about. As I said earlier, I don't want to die or burn my bloody house down.

Please, PLEASE... I've got a couple of weeks before my thumper gets here, and I need to sort this out... My fear of building this, coupled with no leads, or any fucking idea of what I'm doing (even with the helpful advice here) is doing my head in - even though I know it'll only take about an hour to put it together.

So, if you're licenced to do this sort of stuff, and have a little spare time to help me out, I'd REALLY appreciate your help!

Many, MANY thanks in advance :pray:

EDIT: If I'm not allowed to post this sort of thing, I'm really sorry - please delete it and I'll not do it again. Cheers

[Sam.]

Where are you located? Someone local may be able to help.

Keep it to PM :handgestures-thumbupleft:

[Atreu]

Hi Sam,

I'm just near Rockhampton, and I'll definitely keep it to pm's. Thanks mate.