Aussiedistiller, Home Distilling, Moonshine, Home Brew

rumdidlydum wrote:':like:' :laughing-rolling:

':like:' :laughing-rolling:
Cheers man
:text-thankyoublue:

WTDist wrote:cheers rummy.
had me stumped for a bit but i looked over punchys diagram and i see where the neutral from the fan goes to the same return neutral as the SSR and the return in the SCR in yours.. Little harder for me to see with different diagram pics 8-} Jut needed to use my brain.

Is it like this one i drew up below.
L1 is the load into the SCR, N1 is the neutral out of the SCR, L2 is the load into the vold meter and boiler, and N2 is the neutral leaving the volt.m and still going back into the SCR.

Updaded circuit.jpg

like or dislike? lol

Cheers
WTD

:text-+1: that's the one

I have been using one of these for a couple of years now to control an 1800 watt element on my T500 boiler.
Its easy to build, cheap and effective for this size element and runs cool for hours without a fan. I wouldn't bother future proofing it. Just get it built and get stilling. Hell you can buy all the parts for less than $50

Instead of volt or amp meters try a plug-in power meter. It gives an easy way to measure of the power running through the element and to return to the same setting every time.

Plug the meter into the outlet. Plug the controller into the meter and the still into the controller.

Kit:
one of these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-220v-3000W%20...%203688wt_952
This one suits the T500 boiler (1800 watts) Bigger elements require bigger controllers.
one of these
http://www.jaycar.co.nz/Power-Products-%20...%20r/p/MS6115

Male plug
Female plug
(cut a lead or an appliance plug and save yourself the trouble of wiring them up)
A box ( I used a lunch box)

The T500 draws just under 8 amps so preferably 1.5 mm flex certainly no smaller than 1mm for the plug and socket.

How
Mount the controller through the centre of the box lid
Drill a hole either side of the box for the male and female leads to go through
Pass the leads through the holes, strip the ends ready for wiring and then tie a single granny knot in the flex to prevent the lead passing back through the hole.
Wire up the controller (on mine the 2 terminals closest to the top are the output)

Chur

cheers square. I have already bought the parts yesterday and now im waiting the 3 or so weeks till they get here. I want the volt meter too, i would like more but im keeping expenses down.

Messaged my old mate last night. Im not quite sure he knows what im aiming to do here. I will have to better educate him on what it is i want to build. in the end i described it as , its like a light dimmer only its a 4000w SCR and a boiler. i just want to turn the power up and down.

He mentioned at the beginning that i should have a set point controller, (google set point controllers and they cost more than the still :)) ) something about duty cycling the on state of the heating element, which i said i dont want it going on and off i want it on constantly, i just want to control the power. hmm maybe i should have said i just want to control the output of the element :think:

then he said the SCR may be a set point controller bla bla bla.

Hes happy to help though but i just need to explain exactly what i want the controller to do. His job is a 'control system engineer' so im not sure if hes over thinking this :think: It would be good to get his approval on it because this is his job making electrical stuff but i dont want to be told to buy this and that and bla bla bla and then oh no my controller cost $600 :shock:

one thing he said was...... You can monitor the voltage but if there is a power factor error because of inductance you will not see that. You need to use a set point controller....

Is this something i need to know? or is it over thinking?

I just want it to work and not cost to much ~x(


Basically...
How can i best describe to him what i want to build with these parts (SCR fan and volt.m)? is there a technical term (that electrician and electronic engineers use) for this controller that i can tell him it is?

if it is too hard i may have to hit up an electrician :))

Cheers
WTD

Give him the wiring diagram and say build me that but safe 8-}

rumdidlydum wrote:Give him the wiring diagram and say build me that but safe 8-}

haha will do. He may be stubborn but ill try :))

Tell him to think modern Variac
Most leccies I have asked cant get past "thermostat"

cheers P3T3rPan

This is what he said at the start...
This will circuit you show will not regulate the temp. The set point controller will duty cycle the on state of the heating element based on your studiously placed temp sensor.

You might be on the mark there P3T3rPan.

Yup he don't get it
Tell him even grumpy old plumbers understand "control the power not the temp"

Yeah let him know you want a power controller.
Not a temp controller.

you are over thinking it

buy the ebay controller, stick a male and female lead on it.

*buy a power monitor, plug the controller into that.

turn the dial, read the wattage.( it wont be perfect but it should be repeatable)

all done for less than $50

(* as long as the element is 2000 w or less)

Mr Four Square wrote:you are over thinking it

buy the ebay controller, stick a male and female lead on it.

*buy a power monitor, plug the controller into that.

turn the dial, read the wattage.( it wont be perfect but it should be repeatable)

all done for less than $50

(* as long as the element is 2000 w or less)

How is yours going mate, it's been a couple of years now with your original one hasn't it. :-B

1 2many wrote:How is yours going mate, it's been a couple of years now with your original one hasn't it. :-B

Gidday oh box headed one ! Sure has. The original controller set up is still running happily. Dozens of runs on low settings ( which are the toughest on the controller) and no problems at all. Started using the plug in monitor a couple of years ago to measure power and its been great. The 2 biggest technical improvements to my distilling .

Because of the way the controller reduces voltage, the value shown on the plug in monitor is not "true" but for our purposes it is near enough and repeatable. :dance:

Mr Four Square wrote:

1 2many wrote:How is yours going mate, it's been a couple of years now with your original one hasn't it. :-B

Gidday oh box headed one ! Sure has. The original controller set up is still running happily. Dozens of runs on low settings ( which are the toughest on the controller) and no problems at all. Started using the plug in monitor a couple of years ago to measure power and its been great. The 2 biggest technical improvements to my distilling .

Because of the way the controller reduces voltage, the value shown on the plug in monitor is not "true" but for our purposes it is near enough and repeatable. :dance:

Good to hear mate, I think I will dust mine off and get off my ass and build you type first since it's so easy .

I just scored a nice digital meter out of an inverter generator that has selectable mode from volts,amps,KW,and HZ and has hours run time so I
will hook that up to the cheap motor driver and see how it goes. :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Im looking at/ringing around and im wondering about prices and products of cable. I rang one shop that has heavy duty 2.5mm core+earth at about $5.70 per meter :scared-eek: and L & H was about $6 something per meter.
L & H non heavy duty was $3+ for 2.5mm....

bunnings has...
Olex 2.5mm Orange 2 Core Electrical Cable - Per meter which is $2.90 per meter. it doesnt say heavy duty but is the Bunnings one alright?

also am i able to put a lead on to 4mm standard cable even though it isnt round?

cheers
WTD

WTDist wrote:Im looking at/ringing around and im wondering about prices and products of cable. I rang one shop that has heavy duty 2.5mm core+earth at about $5.70 per meter :scared-eek: and L & H was about $6 something per meter. L & H non heavy duty was $3+ for 2.5mm.... bunnings has... Olex 2.5mm Orange 2 Core Electrical Cable - Per meter which is $2.90 per meter. it doesnt say heavy duty but is the Bunnings one alright?
also am i able to put a lead on to 4mm standard cable even though it isnt round? cheers WTD

Are you talking about wiring up a socket to run this set up or need to feed power some distance? :naughty:

Are you just planning on controlling the 1800 watt element on the T500 ?
If so you are fine using an ordinary wall outlet and plugs and sockets and 1.5mm flex.
Buy a short 1.5mm extension cord and cut it in half. Use one end to feed the controller, run the other end out to feed the boiler.

Not sure what you were planning on using the 4mm TPS cable for but I cant see how it would be required for a 2kw boiler.

Mr Four Square wrote:

WTDist wrote:Im looking at/ringing around and im wondering about prices and products of cable. I rang one shop that has heavy duty 2.5mm core+earth at about $5.70 per meter :scared-eek: and L & H was about $6 something per meter. L & H non heavy duty was $3+ for 2.5mm.... bunnings has... Olex 2.5mm Orange 2 Core Electrical Cable - Per meter which is $2.90 per meter. it doesnt say heavy duty but is the Bunnings one alright?
also am i able to put a lead on to 4mm standard cable even though it isnt round? cheers WTD

Are you talking about wiring up a socket to run this set up or need to feed power some distance? :naughty:

Are you just planning on controlling the 1800 watt element on the T500 ?
If so you are fine using an ordinary wall outlet and plugs and sockets and 1.5mm flex.
Buy a short 1.5mm extension cord and cut it in half. Use one end to feed the controller, run the other end out to feed the boiler.

Not sure what you were planning on using the 4mm TPS cable for but I cant see how it would be required for a 2kw boiler.

Cheers four squares.I was just curious with the 4mm. Ill stick with the 2.5mm2 as i will upgrade in the future and i see no point changing wiring for a new element.
What i want is a cord going into my box and a cord going out. 2m length going in and 2m going out from box to plug/boiler. that way im not stuck with space as my boiler sits on the bench and floor depending on how many sections i have on. ill use the same wiring inside the controller too.

I think ill get 5m of Olex 2.5mm Orange 2 Core Electrical Cable this way it wil run 2400W elements too. im using the T500 now but i will get more power in the future so ill make it fit 2.4kW if that makes sense :think:

Cheers
WTD

was in Bunnings today and was looking at circuit breakers and saw they have these in 16amp but not on there web page. I want to put this into my design for added safety.

Are these a good idea to have?? and do i put the load and neutral on the 2 screws on the sides?

keep in mind i am getting a sparky to check it but im making it :handgestures-thumbupleft:

Cheers
WTD

WTDist wrote:Cheers four squares.I was just curious with the 4mm. Ill stick with the 2.5mm2 as i will upgrade in the future and i see no point changing wiring for a new element. What i want is a cord going into my box and a cord going out. 2m length going in and 2m going out from box to plug/boiler. that way im not stuck with space as my boiler sits on the bench and floor depending on how many sections i have on. ill use the same wiring inside the controller too. I think ill get 5m of Olex 2.5mm Orange 2 Core Electrical Cable this way it wil run 2400W elements too. im using the T500 now but i will get more power in the future so ill make it fit 2.4kW if that makes sense :think:Cheers WTD

2.5mm will give you a bit more margin to play with for sure. How come a 2 core though? You want a phase neutral and an earth as well.

If you are going to do that you should upgrade the powerpoint outlet to a 15 amp one ( heavy duty looks the same but has a stronger longer earth pin) drops straight on to the existing powerpoint and get a 15 amp male and female socket to run in and out of your controller . :teasing-blah:

WTDist wrote:was in Bunnings today and was looking at circuit breakers and saw they have these in 16amp but not on there web page. I want to put this into my design for added safety.
Are these a good idea to have?? and do i put the load and neutral on the 2 screws on the sides? keep in mind i am getting a sparky to check it but im making it :handgestures-thumbupleft: Cheers WTD

Hey far be it for me to stop you spending money at Bunnings but its just not necessary.The circuit breaker on the switch board will trip if the controller overloads and you shouldn't expect that to happen. As far as I know aussie electrical rules all require an ELCB on all circuits at the switch board so you have plenty of safety. :greetings-waveyellow: